cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
Ugh, so tired of those assholes.
I think I figured it out. Some of the sealer squeezed out inside the case in “globs” which looks like it could divert air/fuel mixture or block some of it all together. I’m going to rip all this crap out of there and go back with a gasket. I didn’t run the saw very much so it didn’t do a whole lot of damage, just a couple little scratches on the piston, but I see how it could have if I left it alone.i just tried to do this on my 038mag stihl. Cleaned everything up good, laid a bead of yamabond on the case and slapped the cylinder on there. Torqued the head bolts tight, then got a decent torque wrench and found out they were over torqued, so I brought them back down to factory specs. I let the yamabond and loctite setup on the bolts for 24 hr. Went to run it today and it idles like crap and wants to scream when the throttle is applied. I assume there’s an air leak, could there be something I didn’t do right?
SamePeople get carried away with toque settings. I just tighten em down with a t wrench never had a problem, I do use a bit of thread locker on the threads
You do realize that people farking with stuff is why chainsaws don't weigh 40 pounds these days - don't you?Did it run fine before you farked with it?
I thought you all were metric!!!You do realize that people farking with stuff is why chainsaws don't weigh 40 pounds these days - don't you?
You are one sanctimonious sob.
I'm old and stuck in my imperialist ways.I thought you all were metric!!!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/att...541-car-wash-joy_harmon_cool_hand_luke_01.gifSoapy water is your friend. Easiest way to visually find a leak. 2nd is spray the running saw with carb cleaner around suspected areas.
Doing a proper vacuum/pressure leak test can be quite involved in properly plugging up the intake and exhaust.
If you decide to do a leak test, you can get by with plugging up the intake/exhaust with rubber pads tightly held in place (need extra hands - at least 3 total), and create pressure by blowing into a tube connect to the impulse line. You will still need a gauge and a t-fitting. An adequate gauge only will set you back ~$15 or so.
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