Bc2000 knife bed adjustment

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

B-Edwards

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 13, 2005
Messages
1,171
Reaction score
131
Location
NC
I had a bolt break off that holds the cap on the cutter bar, I had to drill it out and replaced the bolt. It was out of adjustment and I decided to get it back in adjustment. I losened both caps and tried to turn the bar and it wouldnt budge. I eventualy snapped the square head off a 3/4 ratchet trying to get the bar to turn. Have any of you ever messed with one of these or even better someone who worked for Vermeer that has experience working on one of these. There is nothing wrong other than it seems frozen in place. Thanks in advance.
 
I had to remove mine to flip it 180 degrees, as the middle of it was worn down when I bought it. You can take the whole thing off, it's just a solid bar. The two caps on the end allow you to cam it up evenly, and the reference marks help you set the clearance. I stamped reference marks for the caps before removing them, and had no problems getting it all back on straight. The vermeer parts guys will send you a parts manual if you call them. Stamp a mark on each cap (called a "mount", #5 in the parts manual), and one on each "clamp" and mark them right and left. This should be done before you loosen the half inch grade 8 bolts on each end. If you have broken off one of the end bolts, I recommend you mark, then remove the entire bed knife and get a machine shop to remove the broken bolt.
You are suppose to be able to loosen the two bolts on each cap, then rotate the bar (bed knife) using the bolts on the end. That way, the two cammed mounts don't get out of whack. If you don't have a parts manual, and don't have time to get it, pm me and i'll copy the pic of the bed knife assembly and fax it. Don't have a scanner though, so I can't email it. Let me know if I can help.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have drilled and removed the broken cap bolt. I also have a parts manual with a blow-up of all the parts. I have a basic understanding of how this all works but where I am having trouble is actually getting the parts to move so I can adjust it. I think all of this is frozen in place due to rust and tree sap. Did you have any trouble getting your parts separated? I haven't tried using heat yet but will tomorrow. Again thanks for your reply I do appreciate your taking time to respond.
 
Mine was a little frozen in place but not bad. With the end bolts tight, (so you don't loose the alignment of the mounts) loosen the four clamp bolts (two on each clamp) until the clamps have some free play. If the clamps are frozen to the bed knife, bump them after loosening the bolts and they should pop free. Then un-hook your feed roller return springs up top, and slide the feed rollers out of the way. Lock the drum in place, then from inside the chute, use a block of wood or a big hammer with a rag taped over it to pop each end of the bed knife downward to get it loose from the upper half of the clamps, but only strike out towards each end. Probably should loosen the clamps, and wet it all down with break-free, then let it sit over-night first. I would leave the single bolts on the end of the knife alone, as they are just used to roll it when it is lubed up and turns easily. Hope this helps.
 
Yes that helps and describes what I thought was the correct way to do this. The problem is my bar is out of adjustment as whatever broke the bolt appears to have pushed the bar down so it looks like I will have to do what is basically an initial set-up on the bar. I appreciate your help. Thanks
 
Once you get it out you will understand the cammed mounts better. If you have a large very flat surface, like the kitchen counter, you can set it up there and tighten the end bolts to lock the mounts relative to the bar. Then roll it some and check each side with feeler gages, and adjust one end (the one that the bolt broke on) until it cams up evenly.
You'll get it, and it will chip much better with the clearance set at (.100") evenly across.:cheers:
 
I got'er done, that's right! Thanks again for reply and info. I actually broke another bolt on the other cap putting it back together which I think was a good thing because the bolt was weakened from the acid and corrosion. I replaced them all and feel I I am good to go now. I have alot of very large Crab apples and multi-floral rose bushes that will look so good going through this thing.
Thanks again!!!
 
Back
Top