Bee Line as split tail??

[kamcbrayer]

Blake's Hitch and 3/8" Bee Line

I'm using 8mm Beeline with a Distel. At first I was pretty jumpy about it because it seemed to be wearing fast, but it was just breaking in. I like it fine, hugs the rope, grips and releases easily and can take the heat of a long free air descent. Someone said to watch the black fibers and when they get tatty it's time for a new one.

I don't know about with a Blake's though, I thought that was supposed to be tied the same diameter as the climbing rope.

Learned my lesson today with a tight eye split tail with the Bee Line today. It seizes up on my 1/2" Safety Blue climb line. I didn't realize that they had to be the same diameter to work properly. Pain in the rear getting back down.

 

[ClimbinArbor]

beeline wears out quick on me too.

i have sherrill special make my e2es out of safety blue. works like a charm.

 

[md_tree_dood]

I have a grizzly spliced beeline eye to eye and a beeline split tail and hate both of them. They tighten up way to fast and are to hard to tend and don't run well. I prefer tenex or ice for eye 2 eyes and I use whatever line I'm climbing on as a split tail for climbing on a blakes.

As far as the split tail goes, I had to cut the sealed end of mine off after about 10 uses due to a milking issue, cut off the excess and then reseal it with tape and a lighter.

 

[rbtree]

I prefer HRC to Beeline, which I find too soft for my liking. Haven't been climbing much lately due to my injured knee, but have a new Bailout cord, which is small diameter, and thus probably best suited to 11 mm lifelines. One of my guys loves his...and ITCC former champ Kathy Holzer swears by hers....after a year of use, it still is unblemished.

As others have said, an open ended split tail is best if about the same diameter the line it's tied on.

 

[Slvrmple72]

So I have been climbing on Arbormaster with a split tail for Blakes and now I want to try an 11mm line and an 8mm e2e (Schwabish, Distel, VT ). Thinking of Samson Velocity and Ice for a combo. What do you small dia line guys use for your combo?

 

[md_tree_dood]

I personally prefer the smaller line with a larger e2e much like what you're discussing with velocity and ice. I climb on Lava and have used 10mm beeline and thought it gripped too hard and went back to tenex which is identical to ICE with the exception of melting point. I've climbed on velocity with tenex and its nice. You may want to look into Lava before you buy though, it offers more grip then velocity and is more durable than poison ivy.

 

[Slvrmple72]

I will have to take a look at Lava. Been using Samson for years though!

 

[md_tree_dood]

Understandably so. I got the line the first week it was out and have converted 2 people so far, you could be the third, the weight and tactile feel of it are worth the purchase alone

 

[Slvrmple72]

Understandably so. I got the line the first week it was out and have converted 2 people so far, you could be the third, the weight and tactile feel of it are worth the purchase alone

What are you using for your setup? Blakes,VT, what kind of split tail?

 

[2FatGuys]

Also, what length e2e?

 

[HolmenTree]

I learned to climb not long after the Blakes was invented. Have always footlocked with a 1/2" Bluestreak and 16 strand 1/2" Safety Blue with a Blakes. Years back I heard all this talk about the 5/16 beeline with a Distel. I tried this system, for quite a long time but I'm the guy who likes 5/8 lanyards and the Macrograb and large D rings on my Traverse saddle. So I went back to my old Safety Blue Blakes. My system is nothing fancy but always reliable and tough .

 

[md_tree_dood]

What are you using for your setup? Blakes,VT, what kind of split tail?

I vary my climbing setup depending on my mood but most likely, Lava line, tenex with a micropulley, no dog snap, tied with a distel. As far as length of e2e, I believe its 12 inches. I weigh about 210 so I take 5 wraps with a tenex and it runs and tends extremely well. I used to use a swabisch with a dog snap but for I got away from that for a number of different reasons.

I also climb with Lava line and a split tail made from the spliced eye that I cut off my line with a micro pulley and dog snap with a blakes hitch. Generally speaking though I only do this when I'm not gonna move around the tree alot as I think the distel runs better.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

new to eye and eye

Hey guys... Been climbing on Blue Streak since I started on a tauntline with a traditional bridge. Made the change to a split tail and micro pulley bout a year ago. Again, stayed with the 16 strand rope for my tail. I'm a heavier climber, right around 210-215 without gear. Anyway...I've noticed that my Blakes hitch tends to lock up pretty danged tight. I tried taking an extra wrap which seems to alleviate the locking up pretty well, but it wants to glaze my rope on a decent...even at moderate speeds. I'm not bailing out balls-to-the-wall by any means. I understand the extra wrap generates more heat so it makes sense. Here's the point--It's lead me to considering an eye and eye hitch (And the fact that the dog snap drives me bonkers!) My saddle is a Tree Austria if it makes a difference at all to you well versed in the eye and eye. I ascend either on spikes for removals or by good ole body thrust for pruning/trimming etc. I am looking into mechanical ascender setups if anyone has some input for me, I'll post that in another thread. I'm not familiar at all with the new generation of products in rope or advanced hitches. Any recomendations that you all might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

[HolmenTree]

Hey guys... Been climbing on Blue Streak since I started on a tauntline with a traditional bridge. Made the change to a split tail and micro pulley bout a year ago. Again, stayed with the 16 strand rope for my tail. I'm a heavier climber, right around 210-215 without gear. Anyway...I've noticed that my Blakes hitch tends to lock up pretty danged tight. I tried taking an extra wrap which seems to alleviate the locking up pretty well, but it wants to glaze my rope on a decent...even at moderate speeds. I'm not bailing out balls-to-the-wall by any means. I understand the extra wrap generates more heat so it makes sense. Here's the point--It's lead me to considering an eye and eye hitch (And the fact that the dog snap drives me bonkers!) My saddle is a Tree Austria if it makes a difference at all to you well versed in the eye and eye. I ascend either on spikes for removals or by good ole body thrust for pruning/trimming etc. I am looking into mechanical ascender setups if anyone has some input for me, I'll post that in another thread. I'm not familiar at all with the new generation of products in rope or advanced hitches. Any recomendations that you all might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Are you using a friction saver false crotch[2 ring strap]? The friction saver takes alot of stress out of your friction hitch and makes climbing alot easier especially if your a heavy climber. I always run 4 wraps on my Blakes. I would say my best advice is get good at footlocking the tail of your splittail.Forget mechanical ascenders ,just extra stuff to worry about or fail.

Gotta go, gotta get up early for a long out of town work schedule , back on Sat.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

I know I'm going to catch all kinds of hell for this, but no. I've never used a friction saver. I'm a natural crotch guy unless I hafta use a false crotch on a spar (no natural crotch to rope into)

Are friction savers REALLY all they're cracked up to be? I mean, God bless the catalogs.... I love em. But let's face it...they are in business to sell gear. I'm not knockin anyone...don't get me wrong. I just wonder how much is hype and how much is on the level sometimes. So friction savers are legit for guys like me? Educate fella's....I'm listening.

 

[ClimbinArbor]

i use the rope saver/leather horseshoe on natural crotch rigging. it keeps the friction off of the limb your tied into, thus saving on the tree. it also lowers the amount of friction needed to advance the line.

havent tried the ring and rings yet.

 

[All Seasons Jim]

New here, but thought I'd input on the friction savers. The ring type FS work very well, they make the rope move much easier, I am a small guy (150 lb + gear) and can't imagine NOT using one. I made an adjustable friction saver out of Arbor-Plex, Ultra-Tech and aluminum rings, that is great for spars or any thing else.

 

[Adkpk]

I'm not bailing out balls-to-the-wall by any means.

Any recomendations that you all might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

I bail on my 8, takes the weight off the hitch therefore less burn. As long as the 8 takes your weight the hitch stays cool but ads the backup if you fall asleep on your descent.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

I bail on my 8, takes the weight off the hitch therefore less burn. As long as the 8 takes your weight the hitch stays cool but ads the backup if you fall asleep on your descent.

Never used an 8 before. I'll get a friction saver...been looking at the adjustable version with the prusik. I've been looking at my jobs in a light of "could that work here?" and resoundingly...yeah, I think it would not only work for me but would make me more productive in a few scenarios. So we'll give it a go...I'll let you guys know how it works for me. Thanks!

Back to the 8....any recommendations? There have to be a MILLION different styles

 

[HolmenTree]

Never used an 8 before. I'll get a friction saver...been looking at the adjustable version with the prusik. I've been looking at my jobs in a light of "could that work here?" and resoundingly...yeah, I think it would not only work for me but would make me more productive in a few scenarios. So we'll give it a go...I'll let you guys know how it works for me. Thanks!

Back to the 8....any recommendations? There have to be a MILLION different styles

Don't forget the Bigshot ,shotbag and line ,only way to get that friction saver up there properly.Get the Tree Climbers Companion booklet best advice to start with ,then move on and take a few Arbormaster Training courses.

Willard