Beech Tree?

[kcrossley]

I would not have recommended fertilization without foliar and/or soil testing. All the elements in the world are useless if the ph is off. A soil test will give you a base line potential hydrogen value to work with.

I may be getting ahead of myself in my last post. Bartlett did in fact take soil samples of the turf area and of the natural wooded area. The turf was extremely compacted. The natural area was fine. My rep said he is likely to prescribe a fertilization regiment, but only after they tested the soil. The bottom line is these guys seem to know what they're doing, so I trust they'll make some sound recommendations after they've finished their official analysis.

 

[tomtrees58]

NO trimming the lower branches will not help. Aeration and ORGANIC fertilization will help.

:agree2r cabling / drilling holes for bolts /lags mic ds? Bartlett love s that

 

[kcrossley]

:agree2r cabling / drilling holes for bolts /lags mic ds? Bartlett love s that

Why is that?

 

[kcrossley]

Last week I received a proposal from Bartlett. Their recommended treatment program runs from $2,500 to $3,600 for both trees depending on the options I select. They are recommending a combination of pruning, cabling, and soil management.

Regrettably, I cannot afford even $2,500 at this time. Out of all the options they presented me with, the one I felt provided the most benefit was Root Invigoration, especially because of the soil compaction which was clearly evident when my rep took the soil samples. Root Invigoration involves cultivating the soil to a depth of six inches to a distance of approximately 15 feet around the base of the tree. The fee for that service was $765 per tree.

Having said that, I wonder if I could accomplish the same thing with a rototiller or would that do more damage than good? I really want to save these trees, but I simply don't have the resources to do everything Bartlett is recommending. I would greatly appreciate any advice you may have.

Thanks,
Kelly

 

[tomtrees58]

dont rototiller you will kill the roots you will lose the trees in the next 2 years

 

[kcrossley]

dont rototiller you will kill the roots you will lose the trees in the next 2 years

Okay, no roto tilling. Thanks.

 

[ct greenman]

How do they plan to "cultivate" the soil? Are they using an airspade?
Heck no rototiller = tree killer

 

[Ed Roland]

here ya go

http://www.bartlett.com/root-rx-vid-lg.cfm?rs

 

[kcrossley]

How do they plan to "cultivate" the soil? Are they using an airspade?
Heck no rototiller = tree killer

Yes, airspade.

 

[kcrossley]

here ya go

http://www.bartlett.com/root-rx-vid-lg.cfm?rs

Thanks Ed. That was very helpful. After viewing the video, I'm even more convinced that of all the procedures recommended, this is the one that would be the most beneficial. Would you agree?

Also, what is the purpose of pruning the tree? Does that help stimulate new branch growth?

 

[Ed Roland]

Thanks Ed. That was very helpful. After viewing the video, I'm even more convinced that of all the procedures recommended, this is the one that would be the most beneficial. Would you agree?

Also, what is the purpose of pruning the tree? Does that help stimulate new branch growth?

Bartlett's root invigoration? Good stuff from the Bartlett Lab. Dr. Smiley is one of the best. His root invigoration is a tremendous tool for specific instances.

With that said, I still think a growth regulator (Cambistat) is best over the fertilization mentioned in the video. It is more beneficial to increase root density over top growth in this case. Of course roots can not be stimulated to grow into compacted soil so aerating is vital.

Google Mycorrhizae. Learn it's importance to the health of the plant and it's relationship with phosphorous in the soil.

Pruning can initiate growth responses. Not all of which are good.
Pruning = wounding.
KC, every last leaf on your tree is performing a very important process and some of the results of that process are stored for future use in the biomass removed from pruning. Think of every leaf as a food factory feeding an already stressed organism. Err on the side of caution. Slow down. NO [big-bag-o-macro] FERTILIZER unless proven deficiencies. Loosen the soil, mulch and monitor.

or spend the $ for Bartlett to get it MOSTLY right.

 

[kcrossley]

Of course roots can not be stimulated to grow into compacted soil so aerating is vital.MOSTLY right.

Bartlett is recommending cabling and pruning now, but advises that we hold off on aerating until this fall. Do you agree?

 

[ChrisWNY]

Core aeration is preferred during the Fall because that is when cool season grasses grow the most. If you're only interested in aerating around your trees, it should be easy enough to rent an aerator and do the job yourself, as long as the ground isn't too dry or too wet, you can aerate at any time. If you're aerating an entire lawn, Fall is the best due to the growth of cool season grass and the weather conditions being optimal.

 

[kcrossley]

Core aeration is preferred during the Fall because that is when cool season grasses grow the most. If you're only interested in aerating around your trees, it should be easy enough to rent an aerator and do the job yourself, as long as the ground isn't too dry or too wet, you can aerate at any time. If you're aerating an entire lawn, Fall is the best due to the growth of cool season grass and the weather conditions being optimal.

So an aerator won't damage the roots?

 

[Ed Roland]

The Bartlett sales rep seems to be operating on the premise that any new roots will then have lots of time to become established before next summer places a heavy demand on the root system. But what has he done to promote root growth other than loosening the soil? After root invigoration and macro fertilization the tree will respond with a lovely new flush of top growth and the "after" picture will make the tree look like its on the road to recovery.
It very well may be.
but...
It is this arborist's opinion that cambistat along with soil fracturing/aerating and mulch to promote root density could be a better treatment for long term health over short term cosmetics. Likely cheaper as well. Ask your arb. rep. about this option.
http://treecarescience.com/uploads/marketing materials PDFs/SMPLInjured_Roots_SS.pdf

Remember. The good doctors at the BTR lab develop the science. It's up to their sales reps to accurately apply it in the field. The following is from the BTE patent for their root invigoration process. "1. A method of improving existing rooting soil around a plant comprising the steps of: selecting a portion of the existing rooting soil surrounding the plant as a first improvement zone; loosening the existing rooting soil in the first improvement zone with an air excavator which releases compressed air at supersonic speed, to a depth of around 6 to 8 inches below ground level"... "the treatment being selected from the group consisting of: organic matter, fertilizer, mycorrhizae fungi, a soil conditioner, and combinations thereof; and maintaining the treated existing rooting soil within the first improvement zone."
- http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6845587.html

A tremendous tool for trees in compacted soil but Is this the best remediation for root damaged trees? Root damaged trees in compacted soil? Root damaged trees in compacted low fertility soil? Could very well be. I was not there so I can only help you make an informed decision.

Any pruning of live wood removes much needed foliage and creates wounds but maybe your arb rep has a very good reason for the pruning.
Often pruning is used in conjunction with bracing to lighten loads. That decision has to be determined on site.

I hope all this info helps, Good luck

 

[kcrossley]

Thanks Ed. All of this has been really helpful. I'll keep this thread updated so I can let everyone know how the trees are doing. Have a great week!

 

[ct greenman]

Core aeration is preferred during the Fall because that is when cool season grasses grow the most. If you're only interested in aerating around your trees, it should be easy enough to rent an aerator and do the job yourself, as long as the ground isn't too dry or too wet, you can aerate at any time. If you're aerating an entire lawn, Fall is the best due to the growth of cool season grass and the weather conditions being optimal.

No the core aeration you are talking about is for lawn. Its not good for trees especial beech. But fall is best for lawn aeration.

 

[ct greenman]

The Bartlett sales rep seems to be operating on the premise that any new roots will then have lots of time to become established before next summer places a heavy demand on the root system. But what has he done to promote root growth other than loosening the soil? After root invigoration and macro fertilization the tree will respond with a lovely new flush of top growth and the "after" picture will make the tree look like its on the road to recovery.
It very well may be.
but...
It is this arborist's opinion that cambistat along with soil fracturing/aerating and mulch to promote root density could be a better treatment for long term health over short term cosmetics. Likely cheaper as well. Ask your arb. rep. about this option.
http://treecarescience.com/uploads/marketing materials PDFs/SMPLInjured_Roots_SS.pdf

Remember. The good doctors at the BTR lab develop the science. It's up to their sales reps to accurately apply it in the field. The following is from the BTE patent for their root invigoration process. "1. A method of improving existing rooting soil around a plant comprising the steps of: selecting a portion of the existing rooting soil surrounding the plant as a first improvement zone; loosening the existing rooting soil in the first improvement zone with an air excavator which releases compressed air at supersonic speed, to a depth of around 6 to 8 inches below ground level"... "the treatment being selected from the group consisting of: organic matter, fertilizer, mycorrhizae fungi, a soil conditioner, and combinations thereof; and maintaining the treated existing rooting soil within the first improvement zone."
- http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6845587.html

A tremendous tool for trees in compacted soil but Is this the best remediation for root damaged trees? Root damaged trees in compacted soil? Root damaged trees in compacted low fertility soil? Could very well be. I was not there so I can only help you make an informed decision.

Any pruning of live wood removes much needed foliage and creates wounds but maybe your arb rep has a very good reason for the pruning.
Often pruning is used in conjunction with bracing to lighten loads. That decision has to be determined on site.

I hope all this info helps, Good luck

:spam::spam::spam: for bartlet The cambistat is a good idea.

 

[Urban Forester]

I would say that growth regulation is a good alternative, however a word of caution, once used, keep the trees on regulation. There is some concern now with resurgent growth if the use of cambistat is stopped. I have a 50ft. european tricolor beech in front of my house. In 2001 I cambistated it, I then let it go to see if resurgence was a problem... HOLY COW, by 2005 I had new terminal growth of 21". I had it pruned that year. Cambistat takes one molecule out of the gibberillic chain. When it "wears off" that chain reconnects with a VENGENCE. Its a good product, you just need to know that the tree needs to stay on a regular "schedule" of treatment. I think that rainbow scientific advancements has some info on their website regarding resurgence.

 

[kcrossley]

No the core aeration you are talking about is for lawn. Its not good for trees especial beech. But fall is best for lawn aeration.

So are you saying the ONLY tree root core aeration I can do myself requires an air spade?