Beer knot

[treeman218]

I wouldn't use that sling for anything important. Especially for straight end to end pulls.

A few comments:

-I'm not sure if I'm seeing the pics correctly but those eyes are not locking brummels but just "stitched" brummels because the tail goes through the body and then is buried.. Whatever the name they should definitely be whipped or lock-stitched in some way.

-That unterminated tail should definitely be back spliced.

- In an end to end pull on those eyes, the backsplice will probably pull through the the bury at a surprising low load. When used in a choked fashion on a tree the bend on the tree will give a little more friction but is not the best configuration to use.

My advice would be to spend the couple of dollars on some more hollow braid and make a loopie. The standard bury to make the loopie into a loop is 2 fid lengths so your 17" bury is pretty darn close but in that configuration I would guess that 4+ fid lengths of bury might be required to yield a useable tool

Be safe

 

[Lumberjack]

Is that a brummel on sherrill's spider legs? I got a few of them, so that might be better than explaning.

Carl

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by treeman218
...My advice would be to spend the couple of dollars on some more hollow braid and make a loopie. The standard bury to make the loopie into a loop is 2 fid lengths so your 17" bury is pretty darn close but in that configuration I would guess that 4+ fid lengths of bury might be required to yield a useable tool

Be safe

A coupla of bucks? Sherrill sells this stuff for 1.70 a foot. How long is the fig, 9"? I am planing on getting 100 foot of each size that sherrill offers and make more loopies and woopies as soon as I get the blow money.

Always safe, low and slow in rigging too!

Carl

 

[NickfromWI]

Yes, those sherrill spider legs in the catalog (12th edition, 2003, pg 44) are Locking Brummells.

To achieve this, form your eye, fold the rope in half to form the eye. Put the bitter end into the standing end like you'd normally do. Now, you used to put the bitter end back through the standing end again, but this time you're going to put the standing end into the bitter end!

That's what makes the lock. If you snug the eye up, it will pull a little, until the lock jams shut, then the eye is locked. Bury the tapered tail, stitch a little, and !viola!

And for what it's worth, the splice that you have shown us is the same splice that is reccomended by most manufacturers. Your splice WILL GIVE A HIGHER STRENGTH RATING WHEN TESTED. If you bust that on a machine, your splice will allow the splice to settle and all the strands will work together to hold the load, whereas the locking brummel will put a lot of pressure at the lock, and will break sooner.

But in our line of work, it is better to have the lock and take the slight sacrifice in strength, but have the added security.

FWIW, I had a sling tested by Yale in April of 2002. It was and eye-eye with locking brummells on each side It broke at 15,053lbs, about 92% of the MBS of that line. The standard brummell would've easily reached 100%.

love
nick

 

[Lumberjack]

Your $3 is in the mail


Carl

 

[treeman218]

Sorry about that price quote. For some reason, probably because it was a long day, I thought that you were using 3/8" Tenex. I looked at the foot pic and thought that you had really little feet

In that case your 17" is definitely not close to a 2 fid length bury.

 

[NickfromWI]

Rock, thanks for posting that. I have one concern. I haven't checked it out in a while, but the direction for the locking brummel were using the Mobius version of that splice, which has the same final result, but is a beeeyotch to do in tenex.

It'll work, but there are easier ways if you have access to both ends of the line.

love
nick

 

[NickfromWI]

also check

Yale's Splicing

Samson Splicing

Marlow Splicing

There are more, but Rock's right, it's best to get the info straight from the manufacturer. And while we're at it,

ANSI Z133.1

8.7.7 Splicing shall be done in accordance with manufacturers' specifications.

love
nick

 

[Lumberjack]

Not to beat a dead horse, but the physical (to my untraine eye) apperance of my bury in the eyoopie sling, and the loopie sling are the same. Both have the tail left untensioned, where you could push it, and it collapse.


Am I missing something? I haven't seen a loopie in person, I am just looking at the pic in sherrill.


Carl

 

[NickfromWI]

Carl, you gotta point here. The loopie is a tried and true method, and the eyoopie, as you call it, is not. But, like I first said, that doesn't mean it's bad. It's just unknown.

I'm noticing that it takes a bit more of a push to get the loopie to slip, than what it takes with the poopie (i'll call it something better when it proves deserving of the name!)

So I guess it's up to the testers. Carl, you've just joined a very elite club of people who are testing this right now. My advice. Use it first in scenarios where you could just bomb the piece out. Nohthing underneath that could be broken. No house, no people, no lines...nothing. (That way, if shi+ happens, it'll be okay!)

Make sure you milk the heck out of the bury after each adjustment and before each time you load it. Milking (for those of you who don't know it) is done by holding one end of the bury in one hand and squeezing the bury in your other hand then running the squeezed hand down. You will see the strands line up to take the load, and the adjusting part will no longer slip when pulled.

Carl, I have a feeling you're gonna use this thing, so let us know how it goes!

love
nick

 

[Lumberjack]

I plan to try it out, but not because I am a know it all, as some believe. That is what I planned to try it out on, doing it somewhere where it doesn't matter if it messes up, and testing it out in the real world. I was in the shower and I thought about how the bury was the same looking.


Where do you think that the added resistance is comming from on the loopie?

Carl

 

[rbtree]

Hope ya didnt bury the soap...

 

[Lumberjack]

Me too... I think I ate it... just woke up, took a pee out the wrong side, then brought about 3/4 -1 quart of liquid nasty outa my mouth, it is like I am hungover, but I aint been drinking.


Carl

 

[NickfromWI]

Originally posted by Lumberjack
Where do you think that the added resistance is comming from on the loopie?

It's not that there is added resistance with the loopie. Remember that the loopie is a loop so the side with the bury holds only half the load.

Now remember the test where you had a friend hold one end while you pushed the bury. If you look closely, you'll see that as you push, the cover bunches up starting at your finger and working it's way towards the far end of the bury. You can bunch up a bit of the cover before those last few inches loose their grip. It's those last few inches that are responsible for holding the load.

In a loopie, it's enough because it's just half the load. In a poopie, it's everything.

Anyone want to donate a rope breaking machine for me to put up in my shop?

love
nick

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by NickfromWI
...Anyone want to donate a rope breaking machine for me to put up in my shop?

love
nick

I got a tractor. Put one end around a tree, the other to the tractor and pull till it gives.


What if on the poopie the bury was maybe 30" long? That way it would have to bunch more to slip because of the added length, which if you adjust it up, then there shouldn't be that much room for it too bunch.


Carl

 

[NickfromWI]

About the tractor, depending on the tractor and the rope, often the tractor would give before the rope did...but I haven't seen your tractor!

And about just making additional bury...I don't think it'll work, but may be worth trying. It looks like it's just a small area down at the bottom that's holding the load.

love
nick

 

[Lumberjack]

I have access to just about any size tractor. What about a winch and a snatch block? We got an 9k warn winch that stalls at 11k, with the block that would be at least 17-20k. Or for that matter a tractor with a snatch block? We got a Ford 3930 4wd and an 1961 Ford 901, that still runs, but we don't use it.


Carl

 

[NickfromWI]

Anyone here pretty familiar with the video series Art and Science of Practicle Rigging. There is something in there that ties in with this thread.

On tape 2, there is a part where Ken and Rip are in the shop talking about rope tools. They show the whooopie, loopie, then hold up a....poopie. Or at least it looks like the picture that Carl posted previously in this thread.

Anyone else seen this?

love
nick