best bar/chain combo for fire-killed trees Husky 372xp

[wildbio]

I'll be collecting a bunch of firewood this summer here in Montana and although I haven't been out yet this season I"ll describe two scenarios:
1. Drive around looking for standing dead (or recently fallen) trees. This can entail a lot of driving and when found - dragging to the truck for bucking.

2. Drive to an area burned by forest fire last year and fell standing dead (and seasoned) trees. Much less driving involved because these occur in much higher densities (in some cases over thousands of acres). This could be equated with salvage harvest albeit for fuel-wood purposes.

More info: The fires(s) that killed the trees in burned areas ran through the stands quickly burning foliage (pine needles) and branches but typically not the bole (trunk) so I wouldn't necessarily be sawing through burned boles. In some cases I may be sawing through some charcoaled parts of the tree. I currently have a Husky/Oregon pro-bar (20") with full chisel chain but am wanting a 24" bar w/ skip chain anyways. So I should I choose a non-sprocket nose type bar? w/ ____ (?) chain type?

any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[wildbio]

forgot to mention (not that it has anything to do with my question) that the trees I will have access to will be pine and fir (lodgepole pine , Douglas fir, and maybe some ponderosa pine, Englemann spruce, subalpine fir, white-bark pine, and aspen).....all occurring on public (National Forest lands) @ $6.25/cord.....I'm looking to save $ (gas) and time by getting wood from stands killed by wildfire.

 

[Four Paws]

Well hard nose bars are well suited to abrasive conditions - so, if your cutting in sandy soil and dry conditions, it might be beneficial. If you want a hard nose bar, check the trading post - there is one in there for sale.

 

[huskydave]

Switch to semichiesel for that type of wood or maybe carbide is the answer. 24" would be ideal for the 372 I keep a 20" on mine but will probably purchase a 24" in the near future. I have a hard time getting it to even start to bog. I think you should stick with the sprocket nose but thats just my opinion you may have to clean it out once and a while but I prefer the sprocket tip even with dirty wood. I use full comp but I have heard good things about skip,semi skip and would try a loop or two next time I need some spare chain. I am sure the other members will pipe up and offer some darn good advice too.

 

[joesawer]

I would not get a hard nose bar unless you need to bore a lot or are tearing up roller noses really fast. They really slow your chain speed down. Get a sprocket nose and keep it greased regular and you should be fine. If it does happen to wear out before the bar a new sprocket tip is only about $12 and it will speed you up enough to be well worth it.
In the 24" bar a semi skip or even full comp should be ok. Full skip is romanticized, but unless you are running a 32" bar on a stock 372 I don't see the need for it.

 

[Pablo26]

I don't know if this wood sounds that dirty to warrant semi-chisel, a little charcoal never hurt did it?(I am picturing standing trees now) I don't mind the full chisel for dirty wood, as long as you are ready to hand file after a tank of gas, which I don't mind cuz I don't have that much to cut at one time. If it's skip you won't have much to file. I would get a sprocket nose for sure.

 

[wildbio]

thanx for the speedy responses. Sounds like I should stick with a sprocket nose given that it's not dirt/dirty wood that I'll be cutting through (just some mostly superficial burned surface of the bole). I appreciate that the nose is cheaper to replace (and I'm a fanatic about keeping it lubed/clean) than the bar....so thanx for that input joesawer.

As the stands are burned with many, many standing dead trees I will be using full PPE including hardhat. I won't be sawing and/or going near any trees that appear to have extensive burned areas about the bole (at any height....hey I also fight fires for the Forest Service and I pay attention to risks).

 

[wildbio]

I don't know if this wood sounds that dirty to warrant semi-chisel, a little charcoal never hurt did it?(I am picturing standing trees now) I don't mind the full chisel for dirty wood, as long as you are ready to hand file after a tank of gas, which I don't mind cuz I don't have that much to cut at one time. If it's skip you won't have much to file. I would get a sprocket nose for sure.

you're right pablo26 the trees I'll be cutting won't be that dirty....it sounds like you know what I've been trying to describe (standing dead as a result of fast moving crown fire).

 

[tek9tim]

Yup. I agree with what's been said already.

If you fight fire, you should already know the answer though. Maybe I'm just lucky to get to spend a good chunk of the summer with my saw dogged into burning/burned wood.

Also consider the PITA of dealing with charred wood, such as keeping your house clean, or having to clean up after throwing a couple chunks into the stove before bed. Burned wood sounds like a nice easy get until you get about halfway though dealing with it, then you (or at least I) can't wait for it to be gone. No more for me, thanks. I get dirty enough at work.

 

[mattinky]

Yup. I agree with what's been said already.

Also consider the PITA of dealing with charred wood, such as keeping your house clean, or having to clean up after throwing a couple chunks into the stove before bed. Burned wood sounds like a nice easy get until you get about halfway though dealing with it, then you (or at least I) can't wait for it to be gone. No more for me, thanks. I get dirty enough at work.

+1 here, I cut up some burned trees for firewood a few years ago - what a mess!

 

[SawTroll]

I fail to see any need for neither skip chain, semi-chisel nor hardnose bars in this scenario, but having some spare semi-chisel handy just in case is allways a good idea.

I use it for maybe 1% of what I cut with 3/8" chain, but keep some of it handy anyway......