New member seeking advice. I've been cutting wood for years with a stihl 390, decided to up my production and bought a 500i to add to the collection. Currently running the stock 25" bar, I've ran 3 tanks through it and I'm finding myself reaching/bending over to buck up rounds. I've heard lots of guys are getting into running longer bars so they have more reach and therefore less pressure on the lower back. I've also heard this is completely wrong, you have less control, and in hardwood your going to cause more stress in equipment. 98% of the wood I cut will be bucked up into firewood.
Best bar length
- Thread starter Hickock56
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I find 28s and 32s most comfortable to buck stuff on the ground. My 60-70cc saws mostly wear 28s and my 460 and 461 I run 32s. You do pay a weight penalty but that can be mitigated some with light bars. As far as stress on the saw goes, that 500i won't have a care in the world with a 32" bar. I'd suggest full skip, sharpening a full comp chain that long is a chore.
Figure bar length to your height. I’m 5-10 and used a 24” when on a crew. ( cut Almond and Walnut orchards) Taller guys used 28s. The idea is to be able to stand up straight while cutting. This tends to wear out tips prematurely but saves your back. As to the control argument…longer bar takes longer to kick. In 40 yrs of cutting this way I’ve never had a kickback I couldn’t control. Now, smaller saws with short bars? That’s another story
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Depends on your conditions and your timber- for me and most pro loggers here in NZ, 25" is the perfect fit for a 500i, but that is mainly falling and log making.
If your body can still handle it, ground conditions are not bad and you want to save some money rather than buy a new Stihl bar- take a knee whilst cutting until you wear the 25 out, then you can buy longer just for reach if you still feel the need.
If your body can still handle it, ground conditions are not bad and you want to save some money rather than buy a new Stihl bar- take a knee whilst cutting until you wear the 25 out, then you can buy longer just for reach if you still feel the need.
Mine came with a 25" as well. Bought during the COVID plague, when saws were hard to get here at least. I'm 6'4", primarily to drop 100' plus dying ash. You'll love the power...it gets in the cut fast, then out in a hurry for safety.
I wrestled between the 25" and longer, but in actuality, a 1.5" more isn't that much. 25" chains are a bit cheaper also, faster to dress and sharpen, by a little anyways. When I do buck with this saw, it really makes short work so with its speed and power, so I'm bent over less.
Some say it's thirsty, I'm finding it really isn't that much more than my 361, factoring the speed and actual time comparing with each other.
Your mileage may vary, good luck!
I wrestled between the 25" and longer, but in actuality, a 1.5" more isn't that much. 25" chains are a bit cheaper also, faster to dress and sharpen, by a little anyways. When I do buck with this saw, it really makes short work so with its speed and power, so I'm bent over less.
Some say it's thirsty, I'm finding it really isn't that much more than my 361, factoring the speed and actual time comparing with each other.
Your mileage may vary, good luck!
I think the 20" on my 361 is my handiest all-purpose, all-time favorite size.
For my 660, I like 28"...altho it's a bit nose-heavy. I wonder whether the Stihl light 28" would be the sweet spot for the 660.
For my 660, I like 28"...altho it's a bit nose-heavy. I wonder whether the Stihl light 28" would be the sweet spot for the 660.
altatim
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I only keep the 20s and 25s for falling or bucking wood on stands. I'm 6'1" and like my 28s and 32s for most ground work
A longer bar is heavier and produces more leverage against your lower back, lighter is always better for a bad back. Try holding a telescopic Pole saw extended all the way out for a couple of hours and see what I mean.
If you have a bar that is shorter than the round most of the round can be cut with the bar pointing mostly down and where the dawgs are positioned, and a rotating action can get close to the ground without hitting it. Leaving a smallish portion to be cut last with the bar basically horizontal. I doubt this is for max production, but it is one thing easy on the back and not kneeling down. These rounds would likely need sectioned to lift, not sure how the next step goes.
I'm leaning towards your line of thinking. I run 5'10 to 6' depending on what liquor store I'm leaving, I can make the 25" work but I keep finding myself leaning over to get closer to a complete cut through before rolling the log to finish. Maybe it's a technique problem but I would think standing more straight up with correct body position; even with a longer heavier bar would still be easier vs. halfway hunched over.
Im 5'9, I can reach the ground with a 20 inch bar and a straight back lol.
I stand kinda like a fighter with my feet apart, this makes me another 2-3 inches shorter yet.
I stand kinda like a fighter with my feet apart, this makes me another 2-3 inches shorter yet.
25" ES Light
The age old debate! I've not yet been convinced by the 'stand up and buck' school of thought - using one saw for everything with a long bar.
As always it depends what you cut. I do a lot of clearing up storm damage to rock hard oak where a lot of the cutting is raised in the air. To do this with a 28 inch bar and a >70cc saw would be madness. So I tend to start the job with a small saw/bar (50cc and 16 inch bar) then progress to a medium saw (76cc and 20 inch) and if its a monstor progress to the big 088 with a 36 inch. In other words what's important is matching the engine power to the bar. I really hate the feeling that the saw is underpowered for too long a bar, and its not good for the engine. I do kneel for prolonged periods of blocking up trunks.
I totally get that it might be different if I was tackling softwood (softer and tend to lie on the ground) or didn't have a vehicle nearby to carry lots of saws.
As always it depends what you cut. I do a lot of clearing up storm damage to rock hard oak where a lot of the cutting is raised in the air. To do this with a 28 inch bar and a >70cc saw would be madness. So I tend to start the job with a small saw/bar (50cc and 16 inch bar) then progress to a medium saw (76cc and 20 inch) and if its a monstor progress to the big 088 with a 36 inch. In other words what's important is matching the engine power to the bar. I really hate the feeling that the saw is underpowered for too long a bar, and its not good for the engine. I do kneel for prolonged periods of blocking up trunks.
I totally get that it might be different if I was tackling softwood (softer and tend to lie on the ground) or didn't have a vehicle nearby to carry lots of saws.
Bludenz
ArboristSite Member
For me, it would depend "where" you are cutting - on the ground or hip height, or higher?
For me, a 25-32 inch bar works very well if I'm cutting on the ground, however a 20-25 inch bar will work just as well if I'm cutting around hip height. I don't tend to push my luck with a chainsaw, so I don't like to cut any higher then hip height. Again, these bar sizes also depend on how big of a log you are cutting.
That's my 2 cents
For me, a 25-32 inch bar works very well if I'm cutting on the ground, however a 20-25 inch bar will work just as well if I'm cutting around hip height. I don't tend to push my luck with a chainsaw, so I don't like to cut any higher then hip height. Again, these bar sizes also depend on how big of a log you are cutting.
That's my 2 cents
John Bruner
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I think the weight of the powerhead is more important than bar length. I recently cut down and cut up a 22" 60ft choke cherry with two different saws.For me, it would depend "where" you are cutting - on the ground or hip height, or higher?
For me, a 25-32 inch bar works very well if I'm cutting on the ground, however a 20-25 inch bar will work just as well if I'm cutting around hip height. I don't tend to push my luck with a chainsaw, so I don't like to cut any higher then hip height. Again, these bar sizes also depend on how big of a log you are cutting.
That's my 2 cents
For cutting the tongue and groove notch; I used my 20" EGO CS2005. for the face and back cuts; I used my CS1804 which only has an 18" bar.
It would have been easier to cut if I had a 20" bar; but for me; it's not comfortable to use that heavy CS2005 at hip height because of the weight of the unit.
The CS1804 has plenty of power; but it would have been easier if it had a 20" bar on it.
There are no 'universal' saw shops around me; where someone would be knowledgeable/handy enough to figure out how to modify a 20" bar to fit that 1804. A modified bar is necessary because I can't find a 20" 3/8lp .050 gauge one with an A041 tail mount.
I've seen things like that done on YouTube, and I have a modified 24" bar on my CSX5000. In that case; I followed the instructions from a content creator on YouTube; and was able to make it work on my saw.
It's a question of whether you prefer a 50-60cc saw with a short bar that requires the operator to bend over or kneel, or do you prefer a +70cc saw with a much longer bar that allows you to buck firewood that's on the ground without bending over.
By the time you throw a 32" bar on a 72cc saw, there's no comparison in weight to a 50cc saw with a 16"-20" bar. Even though the saw is heavier, you end up operating it close to your body instead of having to kneel or reach out with it like you would with a smaller saw and shorter bar. Even a 10 lb power head with a 16" bar gets heavy when you're holding it out at arms length for a while.
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
have you called Madson's?
You could run into issues trying to get different bar mount to fit. Your saw studs could be too small. the oil hole won't line up, the bar adjustment won't match up. But again, they might be away, but I would call Madson's or Baileys. If anyone know they would!
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
Wow... lol ... that's electric saw?
John Bruner
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YIPPEE! Since I posted my comment; I placed a call to Oregon. And the gentleman I spoke with FOUND my bar! He said it was one they supplied to Dewalt for their 20" battery operated saw.
He gave me the part number and I found it on Amazon! In a couple of weeks I will have my lightweight 20" EGO chainsaw!
