Dogging in Vs Self feeding - Different Length Teeth Too!

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

While I’m here, this is 8 tanks at 40:1 Amsoil Saber. I know it’s only early days, but interesting none the less. I’ll keep updating it every so often to see, though I’m going to drop to 32:1 next time. At 100 tanks I’ll take the jug off and see what it looks like.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That will take a good bit of time,Tom. When I was running mine in the woods production cutting I would use 3-4 tanks per day, the 066 was not the most used saw in the fleet but it would take me 30 -40 days of production cutting to reach 100 tanks. If I am still kicking I will like to see the P&C at that time, my own saw looks much like yours, I run 40:1 in every saw I own. Run em WOT as much as possible, no cakey carbon anywhere and I have never needed to burn a spark screen or muffler shell to rid it of carbon.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

That will take a good bit of time,Tom. When I was running mine in the woods production cutting I would use 3-4 tanks per day, the 066 was not the most used saw in the fleet but it would take me 30 -40 days of production cutting to reach 100 tanks. If I am still kicking I will like to see the P&C at that time, my own saw looks much like yours, I run 40:1 in every saw I own. Run em WOT as much as possible, no cakey carbon anywhere and I have never needed to burn a spark screen or muffler shell to rid it of carbon.

Thanks Jerry! i recon it will take about a year to a year and a half depending on how much I go. Will be interesting to see

 

[Cliff R]

"Many times I have had those watching me file chain pipe up and say ,you are filing wrong, there were times that caused me to become irritated but that passed quickly, I realized they knew little to nothing other than what they had read or seen on YouTube, real world experience will teach one different/better."

I've been critisized in Public Forum by folks with about as much real World experience with many of these things as I spent on the crapper this morning. These days it bothers me not in the least.

I don't have opinions about anything I try to help folks out with, just a LOT of experience actually doing it.

Take filing chains for example. I "touch up" every chain when the saw if fueled up. I "sharpen" them when they get dull and I find myself "pushing" the saw to make it cut like it should.

I'd add that I take at least 4 or 5 saws to every outing, fuel up, serviced, razor sharp chain and ready to cut. IF they go dull before I've used up a tank of fuel I put them in the truck and grab another one. If they run out of fuel they go in the truck and I grab another one.

Before the next outing I service ALL of them. This includes "touching up" the chains, tightening them if/as needed, greasing the roller nose, blowing them off and topping off the fuel and oil tanks. They are then ready to go for the next outing. Decades ago before I had the resourses for a complete line-up of saws I had to sharpen or even carry extra loops in the field and swap out chains when things didn't go well. What a PITA that is vs just grab another saw and keep on working then dealing with a dull chain or other issue later on back at the shop.

I also do NOT like fueling saws in the field. Just more risk of getting debri in the tanks and spilling fuel or oil all over the place, etc, but hey ya do what ya got to do based on your scenario, not mine.......

 

[bwalker]

Alot of the videos you see on YouTube and the like are guys cutting west coast softwoods. Even the hardest old growth Douglas Fir is very soft compared to eastern hardwoods from the northern 3rd of the country.
I grew up and have done most of my cutting in Upper Michigan hardwoods. I know live in Montana and cut softwood almost exclusively. My chain set ups are way more aggressive out here.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

"Many times I have had those watching me file chain pipe up and say ,you are filing wrong, there were times that caused me to become irritated but that passed quickly, I realized they knew little to nothing other than what they had read or seen on YouTube, real world experience will teach one different/better."

I've been critisized in Public Forum by folks with about as much real World experience with many of these things as I spent on the crapper this morning. These days it bothers me not in the least.

I don't have opinions about anything I try to help folks out with, just a LOT of experience actually doing it.

Take filing chains for example. I "touch up" every chain when the saw if fueled up. I "sharpen" them when they get dull and I find myself "pushing" the saw to make it cut like it should.

I'd add that I take at least 4 or 5 saws to every outing, fuel up, serviced, razor sharp chain and ready to cut. IF they go dull before I've used up a tank of fuel I put them in the truck and grab another one. If they run out of fuel they go in the truck and I grab another one.

Before the next outing I service ALL of them. This includes "touching up" the chains, tightening them if/as needed, greasing the roller nose, blowing them off and topping off the fuel and oil tanks. They are then ready to go for the next outing. Decades ago before I had the resourses for a complete line-up of saws I had to sharpen or even carry extra loops in the field and swap out chains when things didn't go well. What a PITA that is vs just grab another saw and keep on working then dealing with a dull chain or other issue later on back at the shop.

I also do NOT like fueling saws in the field. Just more risk of getting debri in the tanks and spilling fuel or oil all over the place, etc, but hey ya do what ya got to do based on your scenario, not mine.......

Very interesting, thanks for sharing. To me that sounds like a lot of effort lugging so many saws, have multiple dull chains at the end of the day and when you get home, you spend your evening sharpening them and having to clean and maintain 5 saws rather than one saw and one chain for the sake of some field filing. That said, you clearly have something that works for you and that’s all that matters.

 

[Adamli]

Hi mate, I don't claim to know anything special but I'm on the east coast of Australia and have run a saw or two over the years. Also I appreciate your videos, I'm much better at carb rebuilds after seeing what you do than I ever was before.

Most of my cutting has been iron bark, yellow and grey box and stringy barks. If they are still green you can run pretty much whatever chain you like and it will hold up ok, the challenge is when they have dried out.

Just about every new chisel chain you pull out the box or break off the roll is next to useless in dry wood here. C85 is the worst example, those little side beaks break off in no time and to remove the damage 1/3 of the cutter needs to be filed off. Just a waste of money.

I have found the older recommendations of chain sharpening angles are better suited to cutting dry wood here.

On the top I generally run 30 degrees on semi and 25 on full chisel.

Side plate angles between 80 and 90 degrees significantly reduce the amount of chatter. They will hold there edge a lot longer as well. Hook is definitely not a good thing in hard, dry wood.

The most important part, top plate cutting angle, keep this in the around 60 degrees. As long as you have a good angle here the chain will cut. Dropping the file handle down 10 degrees will help keep this top plate angle while standing the side plate up.

I learnt to square file a few years back just out of interest. Don't believe everything you read about this. I'll take a square chain over a round full chisel in hardwood anyway. If a dealer around you has some RSL or RSLF give it a try. You can always just round file it if you don't like it.

If you're going out to cut as much wood in a day as possible try setting the 660 up with a 20 or 25 inch hard nose bar. It will give you the opportunity to run either 3/8 or 404. For the dry stuff like in your video, use 404 semi chisel. It holds up so much better for this type of work. If you're out in green wood for the day, swap over to 3/8 full chisel.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi mate, I don't claim to know anything special but I'm on the east coast of Australia and have run a saw or two over the years. Also I appreciate your videos, I'm much better at carb rebuilds after seeing what you do than I ever was before.

Most of my cutting has been iron bark, yellow and grey box and stringy barks. If they are still green you can run pretty much whatever chain you like and it will hold up ok, the challenge is when they have dried out.

Just about every new chisel chain you pull out the box or break off the roll is next to useless in dry wood here. C85 is the worst example, those little side beaks break off in no time and to remove the damage 1/3 of the cutter needs to be filed off. Just a waste of money.

I have found the older recommendations of chain sharpening angles are better suited to cutting dry wood here.

On the top I generally run 30 degrees on semi and 25 on full chisel.

Side plate angles between 80 and 90 degrees significantly reduce the amount of chatter. They will hold there edge a lot longer as well. Hook is definitely not a good thing in hard, dry wood.

The most important part, top plate cutting angle, keep this in the around 60 degrees. As long as you have a good angle here the chain will cut. Dropping the file handle down 10 degrees will help keep this top plate angle while standing the side plate up.

I learnt to square file a few years back just out of interest. Don't believe everything you read about this. I'll take a square chain over a round full chisel in hardwood anyway. If a dealer around you has some RSL or RSLF give it a try. You can always just round file it if you don't like it.

If you're going out to cut as much wood in a day as possible try setting the 660 up with a 20 or 25 inch hard nose bar. It will give you the opportunity to run either 3/8 or 404. For the dry stuff like in your video, use 404 semi chisel. It holds up so much better for this type of work. If you're out in green wood for the day, swap over to 3/8 full chisel.

Thanks for sharing all this info much appreciated!!

 

[hitchhikersthumb]

I've had the same thoughts watching the 'tubers blast through wood with long bars and little saws. Thinking I just don't have this hand filing thing down yet, and then when I happen to run across a pine, cottonwood, or soft maple my saws instantly turn into lightsabers too.

In my limited experience and especially given by back, I've found I prefer more aggressive rakers so the saw pulls into the wood. That dictates either a larger displacement saw or older ones (or both) that have a powerband engineered more for "chugging along" than screaming through the wood at 13k rpm.

 

[pioneerguy600]

interesting I didn’t know they made one!
I’m going to grab a full chisel chain next week in 3/8 and try both side by side. The only difference is I’ll put the 10 degree down on the chisel and see how it goes. I ran .404 chisel a month ago there, but the depth gauge guide I use sets them a bit too aggressive even on the hard setting. If I go .404 I’ll just tweak the height of the depth gauges so it’s not quite so aggressive and be a bit less reliant on the progressive to give me the final height.

On the type of wood I cut regularly around here the .404 works excellent on the 064, 066 and MS660 ,faster cutting than the 3/8' but it is filed to suit these trees also, stock off the reel I think the 3/8" would be the winner. Trees here are much softer than those Tom and others cut in Australia.

 

[ZeroJunk]

The only wood I dislike around here is Hickory even though it puts out more heat than anything else.

It's the bark. It throws sparks and dulls your chain before you get to the wood.