Best chain for Stihl 260 Pro?

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Moze

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First of all, thanks to all of you for your input...I've decided to get the 260 Pro and not the 280 CQS.

I assume the dealer is going to give me the saw with an RM2 chain...

My question is - should I upgrade the chain and if so, what can you guys recommend?
 
Are you getting the "Pro" or just the 260?

I ended up with the 260 & saved a little cash. Same saw without the "pro" sticker, adj oiler (which as I understand doesn't work all that great) & decompression valve. As for the latter, I'm not sure what Stihl was thinking. A little girl could start that saw without. Well, close.......

Anyhow, hopefully one of the experts will chime in here.

r
 
I find absolutely no use for a decompression valve on my 026, I don't even miss not having it on my 044 since I added the elastostart handle.... I run a Stihl RS series chisel chain on my 026 and find it works very well... 18" .325 .050 gauge.... I have never tried the RM2, but I personally will be sticking with the RS on the 026..
 
Also, once it's out of warranty, if you can find an older adjustable carb, mod the muffler for sure, it's worth it! My 026 is old enough that I had the adjustable high speed jet, and I'm happy with the increase from the muffler mod!
 
In the past 026's in this neck of the woods anyways, always came with RS chain which is a full chisel chain.

Years of experience has thouht me that Stihl chains and bars are of the highest quality and second to none. Purchase them when they have specials however you will save a few dollars.

NOTE: Because their steel is a bit harder, they do take a little more attention and a bit more time to sharpen well.
 
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Thanks guys. I was planning on getting the Pro mainly because no one really stocks the base 260 around here. I could always order one and save a few bucks though. Thanks for the input Ontario...My dealer is throwing in a case and an extra chain, so I'll be sure to ask for the RS chain.
 
What about your bar length? My 260 was being sold with a whopping 20"er so I requested an 18"er thinking of the weight savings along with less chain for the engine to turn. Even then, for my needs, the 18"er seemed overkill so I installed a 16" bar. Have yet to try it with the 16" but it seems that many here prefer that length for the 260 & other similarly sized saws.

The dealer may even knock off a few more bucks if you request a 16" bar. Just something else to think about......

Oh, & like your dealers, no one here had just the 260 so I had one ordered. I'm glad I went that route. I think the "PRO" sticker is more a marketing tool than anything.
 
It's a good idea to keep some semi-chisel around in case you decide to cut some wood that has been down a while. It is a little less dependent on the point of the tooth and will cut longer in less than clean wood. RM without the suffix number is the designation.
Just remember that these chains are more prone to kickback than the RM-2 chain.
 
I liked the 18" bar on my 026, but now that I have the 044 with an 18" bar, I wish the 026 had a 16" for handling the smaller chores... But it did handle the 18" bar pretty good tho...
 
I wanted a saw that was lightweight, easy to handle, dependable/reliable and performed, so I ordered my 026 with 16 in. bar and have never been sorry I did.
It has met and surpassed all my needs and expectations, it is always a pleasure to use. You can work it all day without over tiring and the power to length ratio is great. If I need longer on and off I can use a larger saw with longer bar. However a 026/260 in good condition with sharp chains will keep most of us cutting with ease up to 18 in. diameters.

I did not purchase it with decompressor, adjustable oiler or heated carb. Mine is a super easy starting saw even at -25. A 12 y.o can crank these up.

Note: You will never run out of oil also using the 16 in. bar, mine always has some left in it when I use up the tank of gas.
 
The .325 versus 3/8 chain for 026 size saws was discussed at length on several different threads if you want to search out the pros and cons of that choice.
 
Thank all of you for your responses - immensely appreciated.

I'll be getting the 260 with the 16" bar. Anything more would be overkill for me (besides, the old rule is you can cut logs up to twice the diameter of your bar, which I'll never have the need for...). I'm really looking forward to owning a saw again. It's been some years since I've cut wood and I miss my old 044.

Dan, I don't claim to know everything there is to know about cutting; my experience is limited to just a few years using that 044 and cutting about 10 cord/year. I know what to do to avoid kickback, but I'm not sure what the answer to your question is - always open to learning more though, so feel free to tell me. I have never cut without chaps, glasses, ear protection, gloves, and steel toed boots.
 
Thanks for your response Lobo...I may just go the route of the regular 260. I was wondering how essential the decompression valve really was. Never had a problem starting the 044, so didn't figure the 260 would be a problem. Might as well save about $40.
 
Moze,

Congrats; you've chosen well (either way).  Have the dealer take the RM2 off the saw and put an RM on instead, and have the extra chain be an RS.  He'll do it and you definitely want him to.

In the off chance he won't do it, follow the advice here.

Glen
 
what glen said for different applications..myself i went to .50 gauge .325.. mainly because i like 95 vp on that saw.. very smooth and fast...but full chisel or semi work fine also..
 
Dan, when you say "3/8 works better" are you comparing round ground .325 to square ground 3/8? I know when comparing round .325 to round 3/8 with a stock saw .325 performed better for em. I must add that I am talking about stihl RS chains only. Stihl RS .325 has a cutter that is much larger than the average .325 cutter.
 
I've timed it and on my 036, stock Stihl 3/8 chisel is outcut by stock Stihl .325 chisel, with a virtually indistinguishable kerf width, though the driver for the .325 was one "cog" more.  The resultant chain speed is too close to the same to quibble about, so the extra cutters (9:8) likely have much to do with that.

The comparison was just that, though, and I run 3/8 because all the other saws do.

Glen
 
The push out and pull in definitely happens. Couldn't name it by the initials, but yeah, those are things you have to be ready for. I have to say, in my few years of cutting, I was careful enough to never experience any serious occurrence of kickback. Chalk it up to being young and inexperienced and extra-careful.

Back to chains - I always just went to my local dealer and had them sharpen the chains or replace them as needed, so I'm not as familiar as I'd like to be with the many different kinds. Sounds like the RS is the way to go though for faster cuts.

Any idea which gives the faster cut - the RS or RM?
 
I agree with Ben the Stihl RM is very decent, the RS is faster and better for my use.

I guess I have been using RS too long now to use anything else. I just like it especially that I keep the rakers filed down a tad more than recommended.
 

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