Best for cutting stumps ?

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i typically use a 460 with a 24" bar

i have a 660 and if i need the 32" bar, i will use it

if have found that it is better to cut the stump up about 3" higher and let the stump grinder take it from there...saves time from trying to the the stump cut and less problems with dulling the chain

i would like to get an 880 for ????s and giggles but I am not a very funny guy...lol
 
I haven't had any problem pulling a 32" with the 460, but it's skip and .050" gage, not .058" or .063" and not full comp. Sharp chain, muffler mod and a tuned saw.
 
I think skip chain is key...

but with any chain, any saw, any situation...

a sharp chain i think is the most important..

Just my thought...

460 though is awesome saw....
 
i don't know how you sleep at night.

I always borrow a buddy's saw for stumps. Any-buddy's saw but mine. Just tell them you gotta saw up some firewood. Works out nice. Then you don't worry about shoving the chain in the dirt. Return it when they aren't home. Thank them on the answering machine. Don't answer your phone for a few days. All is right with the world.

i also don't lend my saws out.lent the 395 out once and it came back with the chain hanging 3 inches off the bar.first and last time.
 
Yep, that a good reason.

When i was 13, i talked my grandparents into buying me a decent professional paint sprayer (retail's now around 1000)...and i painted there home in exchange.
I really started painting homes when i got my truck, and could drive...for like a year and half...

Well a friend who helped me a bunch, asked to borrow it to paint his house....(i was out of painting homes, couldnt stand the fumes) anyways they decided not to clean it out for 2 days...ruined the machine...

Graciously bought me a newer version more or less of the sprayer...

So in the end it turned out ok, and i have basically a brand new sprayer..

NOT TRYING TO STEAL THE TREAD, just sharing a quick story
 
It depends on what you usually cut down. If you are not in huge wood all the time the the big saw is not cost effective. Not to forget how fast those things go through gas.

I get a kick out of guys who have $1000 saws that get used maybe 3 or 4 times a month but complain that the GRCS is too pricey for them :laugh:

Skip chain is nice, because it will clean out better.
Don't use full chisel or square for stumps because it dulls faster.
The bigger saw needs heavier chain, try to keep your chain gauge down.

I have a 385 with full-skip, semi-chisel on it with a 32 inch bar. It is nice to be able to run through the cut fast, but it is a pain to sharpen, even half comp.

I did a 4 foot bar a few times, that was full comp. Never want to work on that again, it seems like it never ends.

what JPS said !!!! i don't need a $ 800- $1200 saw sitting in the trailer for 5-6 times of use a year....

most of my pro jobs are already flushed,, ( not all ) home owner job is a different deal...

i've done 6 ft stumps with my 361 and a 18 inch bar.....ring the stump then cross hatch the top,, then ring the rest... takes a little time,, but i have that figured into the price...

plus,, you'll find all sort of fun things low in the stump.....lot easier to sharpen a 18 if you hit one of the fun things,,, and a lot cheaper to relace if you have to..... ( found a rail road spike completely buried in the stump with the grinder a few weeks ago... (( broke 3 teeth)) would have destroyed a chain beyond repair )
 
what JPS said !!!! i don't need a $ 800- $1200 saw sitting in the trailer for 5-6 times of use a year....

most of my pro jobs are already flushed,, ( not all ) home owner job is a different deal...

i've done 6 ft stumps with my 361 and a 18 inch bar.....ring the stump then cross hatch the top,, then ring the rest... takes a little time,, but i have that figured into the price...

plus,, you'll find all sort of fun things low in the stump.....lot easier to sharpen a 18 if you hit one of the fun things,,, and a lot cheaper to relace if you have to..... ( found a rail road spike completely buried in the stump with the grinder a few weeks ago... (( broke 3 teeth)) would have destroyed a chain beyond repair )


i agree there can be some crazy unseen things in a tree...especially the base.

I know you said you already figure it into your price, but you cant take away the power and speed of a larger saw...

The other thing about a larger saw...is you still have the option to put a small bar...and be really fast, or go with a big bar an be fast...

I know weight is a factor, but i am gonna take the heavier saw with more power.

Just my thought.
 
I've got a 66 with a 36" bar, it works for what I need to do. Have I thought about getting an 88? yes. Does it make sense for my application? hell no. Today we bombed a 40" DBH oak into the woods. Making the cut was a PITA for 2 reasons... 1) there was metal in there, so the chain had to be sharpened. 2) the tree was on a BIG hill... the 66 was hard enough to swing around down there, an 88 would have been FAR worse. I mean this year I've run into MAYBE a half dozen trees where the 66 wasn't big enough, but only by a few inches.
 
I've got a 66 with a 36" bar, it works for what I need to do. Have I thought about getting an 88? yes. Does it make sense for my application? hell no. Today we bombed a 40" DBH oak into the woods. Making the cut was a PITA for 2 reasons... 1) there was metal in there, so the chain had to be sharpened. 2) the tree was on a BIG hill... the 66 was hard enough to swing around down there, an 88 would have been FAR worse. I mean this year I've run into MAYBE a half dozen trees where the 66 wasn't big enough, but only by a few inches.

Ya...a few months ago i started a thread 660 vs 880...and for reasons like your stating i stayed away from the 880, granted i still havent gotten a 660...saving my pennies...

The 441 is doing just fine...but i would love a 660...
 
The other thing that steers me personally away from the 880....

is the pitch .404

and the 660 is 3/16...which all my other saws are...makes easy for sharpening

You can run up to a 42'' bar on the 660's, i am sure it would be slow...gets the job done.

Price...is a big diff. too
 
i agree there can be some crazy unseen things in a tree...especially the base.

I know you said you already figure it into your price, but you cant take away the power and speed of a larger saw...

The other thing about a larger saw...is you still have the option to put a small bar...and be really fast, or go with a big bar an be fast...

I know weight is a factor, but i am gonna take the heavier saw with more power.

Just my thought.

if i get X per hour ,,,,on a job,, what is the difference between 5min and 15 min ???

i don't need a 900, 1000,1100 dollar chain saw sitting around for months at a time,, to save a few minutes on a few jobs....

you cant take away the power and speed of a LAMBORGINI or a MASSARETTI ,,,,, real waste of money when the speed limit is 55 !!!!!!

lot of funny things in flush cutting stumps,,, ( metal,, concrete, glass,, rocks,, dirt , etc )

think about all that time you save when your filing that big bad ass saw that goes really fast,, when you waste it on a bad stump....

there is a concept called " UNUSED CAPITAL " where you buy something that doesn't get used enough ,, to justify the price,, when the money can be used elsewhere,, for better returns.....
 
I use a 660 with a 32" bar. I'll probably add a 36" bar later. I also use a 440 with a 24" bar. I use both saws an equal amount of time, your location and the size of the stumps you typically encounter will determine if you really need the 660 or not.
As for me, I'm glad to have it.

Take care,
Mitch
 
if i get X per hour ,,,,on a job,, what is the difference between 5min and 15 min ???

i don't need a 900, 1000,1100 dollar chain saw sitting around for months at a time,, to save a few minutes on a few jobs....

you cant take away the power and speed of a LAMBORGINI or a MASSARETTI ,,,,, real waste of money when the speed limit is 55 !!!!!!

lot of funny things in flush cutting stumps,,, ( metal,, concrete, glass,, rocks,, dirt , etc )

think about all that time you save when your filing that big bad ass saw that goes really fast,, when you waste it on a bad stump....

there is a concept called " UNUSED CAPITAL " where you buy something that doesn't get used enough ,, to justify the price,, when the money can be used elsewhere,, for better returns.....


I completely agree with you...

If you look at my first comment, i think its the first response i asked what are you cutting...i completely agree with "unused capital"...

I dont no how many 6 ft, stumps your getting...but if not a lot then i 100 percent agree.

Sorry my response came across confusing...if you have a lot of need to cut large logs, or stumps and can use a 660 or 880 all the time then is great capital...

otherwise i complete agree with what you say.
 
if i get X per hour ,,,,on a job,, what is the difference between 5min and 15 min ???

i don't need a 900, 1000,1100 dollar chain saw sitting around for months at a time,, to save a few minutes on a few jobs....

you cant take away the power and speed of a LAMBORGINI or a MASSARETTI ,,,,, real waste of money when the speed limit is 55 !!!!!!

lot of funny things in flush cutting stumps,,, ( metal,, concrete, glass,, rocks,, dirt , etc )

think about all that time you save when your filing that big bad ass saw that goes really fast,, when you waste it on a bad stump....

there is a concept called " UNUSED CAPITAL " where you buy something that doesn't get used enough ,, to justify the price,, when the money can be used elsewhere,, for better returns.....

What if you get paid by the job not by the hour?

Last time I checked there wasn't a speed limit on chainsaws.

When you finish faster your on to the next job or headin home for the day.

I try to keep older chains with not much left on the cutters for stumps...

If you have a big saw your going to use it. When it comes to stumps and trunk wood your going to use your biggest saw. You don't have to have a 36"+ bar on your big saw. I like the 30" the best on the 880 but still have a 36" and 48" if I'm into somthin massive. The name of the thread was "best for cutting stumps?". The answer to that is the bigger the better no ifs ands or buts. Its best to have a wide verity of saws, everyone can probably agree on that. I wouldn't want to be cutting a 6' stump with a 361. If you had a bigger saw you would put less wear and tear on your 361. You would get a better return on both saws if you used them for what they were best suited for.
 
I get paid by the job, not the hour. I can use my 460 to cut any stump, just takes a while on some. I started this thread because I'll soon purchase a 660 or 880 to stump. I wanted to know if the 660 would do it or did I need the 880. And I was curious what everyone else was using.

It doesn't matter if juststumps doesn't need a 900, 1000,1100 dollar chain saw sitting around for months at a time,, to save a few minutes on a few jobs. I've decided I'd make more money and my big jobs would go easier with one of these 2 saws. Whatever it costs, it's a one time purchase and I write it off. The big saw or the GRCS isn't too pricey or unused capital for me , both are INVESTMENTS. If you don't feel the need for either of this, more power to you.

Getting back to the thread, 660 or 880 ? Which one and why ?
 
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I get paid by the job, not the hour. I can use my 460 to cut any stump, just takes a while on some. I started this thread because I'll soon purchase a 660 or 880 to stump. I wanted to know if the 660 would do it or did I need the 880. And I was curious what everyone else was using.

It doesn't matter if juststumps doesn't need a 900, 1000,1100 dollar chain saw sitting around for months at a time,, to save a few minutes on a few jobs. I've decided I'd make more money and my big jobs would go easier with one of these 2 saws. Whatever it costs, it's a one time purchase and I write it off. The big saw or the GRCS isn't too pricey or unused capital for me , both are INVESTMENTS. If you don't feel the need for either of this, more power to you.

Getting back to the thread, 660 or 880 ? Which one and why ?

Very Well put.

I think the 660 is powerful enough and is lighter. If the weight doesnt bother you...then hey, like some else said previously on this thread...nothing can be taking away from pure power...

Ah, heck you already have a 460 man...go for the 880 is you can afford it...go for the power its a little heavier but who cares right...
 
There is about 5.8 lbs difference between the 660 and 880. (heavy)
There is about 30 cc's between the two. (power)
And about maybe 500.00 difference. (You pay for power ! )

They really are two different animals.
I could do 80 % of what the 660 will do with my 460
On the other hand , with the 880, I would fear no tree !

Unless I get to run both before I buy, I'm leaning toward the :bowdown: 880.
 
Whats the quote "Go big or go home" . . . . .

canyon,, you ought to go home then......... what are you doing running that " TONKA TOY " 192T ??? LOL

i get paid by the job.. i'll flush a stump if it will save me time.. most of my jobs are already flushed... only twice this year i've done a stump that i could have used a really big saw on...

1, i was mechainic/ groundie/ stump grinder,,,big oak take down,,, was asked to help,, then grind the stump... bring grinder,, and by the way,, bring your tools....after changing the blades and a hose on the chipper,, the 440 died in the tree... sent up the 395,,, by the time it was time to flush the stump,,, the 395 ate its clutch... flushed it with my 361,, then ground the stump....
( on the way home,, they got cut off by someone making an illegal turn,,, flipped the chipper,, destroyed it,,, really bad equipment day)(FYI bandit 250 doesn't take to roll overs very well )

2, guy down the street had a massive willow break out,, he left a note in the screen door,,"hey give me a price on this stump" ... guy owns a hardware store/ john deere /honda/shindawa/STIHL dealership.. he appologized for not cutting it down further,, but he didn't have a big enough saw....6 foot at the flare.. flushed it with the 361... ( this guy has all the big stuff on the shelf)

i work 40-50 hrs per week at a tree service,, stump ifor myself in the afternoon,, and weekends....have access to 2 jonsered 2095's,, one with a 30, the other with a 36,, they're shop saws,, only go out on big take downs...
rocking saws if they're sharp... with 4 crews, they're never sharp!!!!!

sure it would make life easier with a bigger saw,,, so would a rayco rg 90 instead of my 352,, or a 90 ft bucket, instead of the 65 ft one i run every day..

yeah, it's an investment... but there are good and bad investments... if you have the work for it,, go for it,,, i don't have the work to justify buying it,, its a bad investment,, for me....no rate of return.....

2,
 

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