Abbershay
ArboristSite Operative
I just lost my pole saw in a fire and will be replacing it, it was a stihl... I had a few problems with it .. I want to know who makes the best saw for the money.. what should i replace it with?
Best pole saw
- Thread starter Abbershay
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RockyJ,
Which pole length & blade size combination on your ARS?
I am in the process of selecting another couple of pole saws, and was about to go with Silky based upon their hand saws I have. Are there issues with the Silky poles?
Which pole length & blade size combination on your ARS?
I am in the process of selecting another couple of pole saws, and was about to go with Silky based upon their hand saws I have. Are there issues with the Silky poles?
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
WHAT?
Abbershay
ArboristSite Operative
i just missed a echo power pruner on ebay for 300.00 Should have grabbed it i think.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
My experience is just the opposite. If they can keep from bending the shaft
angry: ), they take a licking, and keep on ticking!Not counting this site, you know 10 people with PPs?
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Can I be yur supervisor???
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Coffee, eh?
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I was at theis Mexican bar & grill, they had this thing called xallala, Corona on ice in a salted mug with a shot of tequila and lime. Sounds funky but I liked it.
For climbing pole I like the 12 foot basswood with a Marvin head and an Corona blade. Each connector will make it flex more and require more effort. I prefer to climb ofr most of my cuts, so I don't use a saw in a tree all that much. More for twitching small deadwood out of big oaks then anything else.
I own a 21ft Silky, I love it for ground work. You have to fabricate a hangor for it and like brian says, the locks were not desigend well. It is not good for climbing. The blade on it rocks though. I use it a lot on line of sight clearance on bluffs.
For climbing pole I like the 12 foot basswood with a Marvin head and an Corona blade. Each connector will make it flex more and require more effort. I prefer to climb ofr most of my cuts, so I don't use a saw in a tree all that much. More for twitching small deadwood out of big oaks then anything else.
I own a 21ft Silky, I love it for ground work. You have to fabricate a hangor for it and like brian says, the locks were not desigend well. It is not good for climbing. The blade on it rocks though. I use it a lot on line of sight clearance on bluffs.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't you guys that are using those hook tipped saw blades find them to be a pain.
I tried one once, just never cared for it because it would catch on things while trying to manipulate the saw around or would get caught up in the cut while sawing off a limb if you misjudged on the pull stroke.
I tried one once, just never cared for it because it would catch on things while trying to manipulate the saw around or would get caught up in the cut while sawing off a limb if you misjudged on the pull stroke.
I've used hooked saw blades for years, and love them for the same reasons Rocky stated. In fact I miss the hook when I use my Zubat pole saw.
I'm also considering the ARS pole saw, as several of you think it is better than the Hayauchi, which is just too fragile, and the clips and detent pins work poorly if at all. Or the Florian, liked by Guy Meilleur if I recall correctly.
I'm also considering the ARS pole saw, as several of you think it is better than the Hayauchi, which is just too fragile, and the clips and detent pins work poorly if at all. Or the Florian, liked by Guy Meilleur if I recall correctly.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Ax-man, I never cared very much for the hook-tipped polesaw blades. Perhaps it was my lack of technique or something, but they seemed to hang-up in the cut moreso than the others.
I'm anxious to try out a Silky blade. I don't want the Silky set up, I wanna make it fit my regular head.
I'm anxious to try out a Silky blade. I don't want the Silky set up, I wanna make it fit my regular head.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I first tried a hook tip, there was no such thing as turbo cuts in pole blades or hand saws.
Maybe with these new blades it might make a difference like it does with the hand saws.
Like Rocky said it took him 3 days to master it, I honestly can't rememeber if I gave it that much time. In addition to that annoying hook tip, the blade itself wasn't as sharp as what I was using at the time, which also made up my mind to give up on this style of blade.
MB, I tried a Mondo based on your post months ago.
My first cut with it was on a sappy Siberian Elm limb, the big teeth clogged up with wood and cut poorly. It reminded me of those oversize Azel blades years ago, I didn't care for those either. After cutting in different woods I have changed my mind about the Mondo. It really excels in the larger deadwood. For a regular sectional pole saw blade I'll never change to any thing else. For doing the coarser type cuts it can't be beat, the extra thick blade is just an added bonus. For doing fine pruning the turbos would be a better choice, than the Mondo.
Maybe with these new blades it might make a difference like it does with the hand saws.
Like Rocky said it took him 3 days to master it, I honestly can't rememeber if I gave it that much time. In addition to that annoying hook tip, the blade itself wasn't as sharp as what I was using at the time, which also made up my mind to give up on this style of blade.
MB, I tried a Mondo based on your post months ago.
My first cut with it was on a sappy Siberian Elm limb, the big teeth clogged up with wood and cut poorly. It reminded me of those oversize Azel blades years ago, I didn't care for those either. After cutting in different woods I have changed my mind about the Mondo. It really excels in the larger deadwood. For a regular sectional pole saw blade I'll never change to any thing else. For doing the coarser type cuts it can't be beat, the extra thick blade is just an added bonus. For doing fine pruning the turbos would be a better choice, than the Mondo.
I used the 21' ARS and loved it. I stripped part of the plastic latches partially by trying to push up to cut a bigger hanger than this thing can handle. I know I should not do that. Blade is sharper than anything I ever used. The pole is stirdy enough if you don't drop anything on it. Well, I did to my and the bottom section bended a little. I didn't affect anything other than it takes couple more pounds to pull the section out.
A question for you all using pole saw in trees: Do you hang it on your limb when you move arround, up and down? and how? I sometimes use the tip hook for that even though I know it's risky.
A question for you all using pole saw in trees: Do you hang it on your limb when you move arround, up and down? and how? I sometimes use the tip hook for that even though I know it's risky.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Butch, Silky refuses to make a blade for a standard hand/pole saw. Go with ARS or Corona if you don't want to use the Silky handles. I've tlked to a few people who have tried to modify a case hardend sily blade, and it is a PITA.
Maybe one of us will send you a dull one to play with? I just gave one away to a buddy for a root saw. He wraps the tang in duct tape and gets the squeel out of the pig.
Maybe one of us will send you a dull one to play with? I just gave one away to a buddy for a root saw. He wraps the tang in duct tape and gets the squeel out of the pig.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
hang it by the hook, with the blade facing away from me. Being aware of where ropes and all are so that if it gets knocked out, it will not shead anything on the way down.
Guy Meilleur
Addicted to ArboristSite
Florian is the finest. Blade is thin but will not easily bend until very old. Hanging hook small but usually adequate. Light and powerful; telescopes quickly but strong enough to really lean on a cut. I'd rather leave my handsaw AND 200t on the ground than do without my florian on most trees.
When there are a lot of big cuts to make i snap on a standard head with a hooked blade. like that for all the reasons others cited. use that rig maybe 1/3 of the time; florian head&blade much lighter and quicker cutting. If you get your body right you can make a clean collar cut most of the time.
When there are a lot of big cuts to make i snap on a standard head with a hooked blade. like that for all the reasons others cited. use that rig maybe 1/3 of the time; florian head&blade much lighter and quicker cutting. If you get your body right you can make a clean collar cut most of the time.
