Best Stihl for running 20" Bar

[Wood Doctor]

I hate to be the Devil's advocate, but one of the best matches to a 20" bar that was ever made was a McCulloch 610 or 650 TimberBear that was first built in 1977. The engine is about 61cc and it pulls a 20" bar without breathing hard. All three of the ones I have in this class (including the 5700) are equipped with 20" bars and they still cut like bandits.

That being said, I truly like the way my Stihl MS361 handles a 20" bar and it proves it every time I go to the woods or to a GTG. However, any bar longer than that and it has trouble and will not even keep up with the old Macs pulling a 24/25" bar. The heavier old Macs can even pull a 28" bar easier than the 361 can pull a 24/25". Hard to believe, but true.

 

[xxl]

Get a saw with a 60 cc engine at least

 

[Wood Doctor]

Of the Stihls, I would take an 044 or a 440 any day, despite its rather dated design.

If I had it to do over, I would probably have paid another $100 and bought the 440 rather than the 361, only because many of the big logs that I cut demand at least a 24/25 bar. However, the 361 with its 20" bar can take care of better than 80% of all my work, so I can't kick it out of bed for eating crackers.

The 361 is a very nice, light, dependable saw, and hardly weighs anymore than a 290. I was a bit disappointed when Stihl increased the power with the newer 362, but at the expense of some added weight.

 

[SawTroll]

If I had it to do over, I would probably have paid another $100 and bought the 440 rather than the 361, only because many of the big logs that I cut demand at least a 24/25 bar. However, the 361 with its 20" bar can take care of better than 80% of all my work, so I can't kick it out of bed for eating crackers.

The 361 is a very nice, light, dependable saw, and hardly weighs anymore than a 290. I was a bit disappointed when Stihl increased the power with the newer 362, but at the expense of some added weight.

The MS361 actually is lighter than the MS290 by a fair margin, but the MS362 is not. Also, the 361 and the 362 are rated at the same power, if the 361 isn't a US one (the cylinder and the muffler is different).

 

[HuskStihl]

Might just spend a little more and get a used feller/buncher. For occasional use a homeowner grade machine might be fine, but just in case, I'd get a pro model:biggrin:

 

[tomtrees58]

i run 362s w 20' bar in the yard for bucking logs its a nice lite saw

 

[indiansprings]

As you stated based on intended use, if you are just cutting for yourself and cutting less than 100 cord a year, go buy yourself a 311, if you don't intend to have the bar buried all the time and are just cutting firewood buy yourself a 290 for 389.00 before they dissappear off the shelves, you are on an enthusiast site and everyone will point you to the direction of a pro saw, nothing wrong with that if you have the xtra coin, magnesium case, heavier build, will last longer under commercial/everday use conditions. There are more 290's cuttting wood in the USA today than any other saw, #1 selling saw in the USA, all the saws mentioned are good saws. The 361 being one of the best pure firewood saws Stihl ever made, if you plan on using the full lenth of the bar all the time, you might consider stepping up to the 391 or 362, the 391 being the farm/ranch clamshell design engine and the 362 the split magnesium pro model.
The old argument it is cheaper to rebuild a pro saw doesn't hold water anymore if you use OEM parts no mattter the brand. Unless you are a commercial user planning on cutting over a 100 cord a year, I don't see the advantage anymore for the average guy to buy pro in these tough economic times unless you are an enthusiast, or just have the extra cash and want the best. I've got close to twenty saws setting on the shelf and the family runs a firewood business, the most used saws are the little 261 Stihl's set up with 18" bars. We even use an 18" bar on our 361 with a 18" sprocket with a 8 tooth rim spocket for xtra chain speed. Anything needed for anything larger gets a 70cc saw.

 

[Woody912]

Based on the intended use, I think the MS290 or 310 would be a good fit. Also the Husqvarna 455 or 460 would do the job. I don't think a pro saw with its higher price would provide any advantage in this case. Not going to be used four or five days every week.

Yep. I have been running 20" bars on 60 cc saws for about 30 yrs, presently 2 036 Pros. Current price on a Stihl 362 is gonna be close to $750. I am not hearing that he needs that much money in a saw. Unless he wants it.

 

[trl91]

I'm leaning towards the 391 as it is recommend for the 20" bar and it will probably only be brought out on the weekends. Just hope I will be able to take down some decent size tree's when the time comes (15-25"). Anyway i'll probably buy new but I'll keep my eyes out for a good used one also. What's a fair price for a used one in good shape? Actually in general, when buying used how much less then MSRP should they be going for? Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[SawTroll]

As you stated based on intended use, if you are just cutting for yourself and cutting less than 100 cord a year, go buy yourself a 311, .....

I'm leaning towards the 391 as it is recommend for the 20" bar and it will probably only be brought out on the weekends. ......

I believe he was asking about the best, not about cheaply made "homeowner" saws? :msp_confused:

If those saws are the options, he likely would be much better off with a Husky 555, that isn't an overly large and heavy lump of plastic..

 

[SawTroll]

Acquired a used 440 w/20" b/c several weeks ago; hey, I'm a bit dated myself. :cool2: Still getting used to the power and longer bar, but at least the 260 isn't being abused any more. The 440 is a proven saw, plus the local repair tech knows everything about it backwards and forwards. Handles better than expected for a 70cc saw. Husky 372xp was on the list too, but the OP's talking Stihl here.

The 372 xp basically has much better air filtration, AV, and cylinder porting than the 440 - there isn't much competition, really. That doesn't keep the 440 from being a very good saw though, it just was a much older basic design - and Stihl always have been a little "slow", from the 1990s and on. They seem to be more occupied with desingning more or less useless "add-ons" for homeowner saws, than they are about designing really good pro saws.

 

[fearofpavement]

I'm leaning towards the 391 as it is recommend for the 20" bar and it will probably only be brought out on the weekends. Just hope I will be able to take down some decent size tree's when the time comes (15-25"). Anyway i'll probably buy new but I'll keep my eyes out for a good used one also. What's a fair price for a used one in good shape? Actually in general, when buying used how much less then MSRP should they be going for? Thanks for all the help guys.

..............................................
I just sold in the past week a Stihl 039 in very good condition with a 20" bar running 3/8" x .050 chain on a drum and rim set-up for $325.

I also sold (yesterday) an 029 Super with the big bore cylinder kit (essentially an 039) running 3/8" x .050 chain on a 20" bar with a spur sprocket for $275. Those are Georgia prices and they may vary regionally. Those were in person sales from CL. eBay may have netted more (or less) but I like selling saws in person, demo the saw in wood, show some basic saw care tips and the 029 I put a brand new chain on for the guy as he seemed concerned about the condition of the one on it. (about 98% lol)

 

[trl91]

I believe he was asking about the best, not about cheaply made "homeowner" saws? :msp_confused:

If those saws are the options, he likely would be much better off with a Husky 555, that isn't an overly large and heavy lump of plastic..

I don't have anything against Husky so I'd consider it. Was leaning in the direction of Stihl because I ran a buddy's 361 before and was a little more familiar with them. Most people around me run Stihl so I was also thinking down the road if I ever had a problem they could help. What's the Husky 555, never heard of it? I did however run a 372 once but it was very brief only cutting a couple cookies. While I do know a couple people that say the 372 is the Holy Grail of saws, it's a little out of my price range. I'm trying to stay around the $600 mark.

 

[Wood Doctor]

My 361 Weighs Less Than a 290?

The MS361 actually is lighter than the MS290 by a fair margin, but the MS362 is not. Also, the 361 and the 362 are rated at the same power, if the 361 isn't a US one (the cylinder and the muffler is different).

Good grief, my 290 is actualy heavier than my 361? Dry weight or filled with oil and gas? You may be right. I have them both, so I'll check it with bars removed by letting LOML pick up each one. That's truly mind boggling.

If true, it's no wonder that I really like using that 361. Heck, the dang thing must be over 4 lb lighter than the big old 61cc Macs and a breeze to use.

 

[chadihman]

361 or 362

 

[bigbluram]

Ported ms 261 all the way, search on this site = 70 cc power in a 11.6 lb package...

 

[deye223]

Stihl ms 460

 

[bigbluram]

Or makita 6421, best value in pro class saws of this size range . On sale under $600 at baileys last time I looked

 

[trl91]

Ported ms 261 all the way, search on this site = 70 cc power in a 11.6 lb package...

Very arrogant to chainsaws please excuse me. In a nutshell, what type of porting are there and what are the pros/cons?

 

[bigbluram]

Porting is custom modifications to intake and exhaust ports as well as transfers. It can range from a mild "woods" port to full race porting. A woods port job makes almost any saw run stronger with no downside other than $ 250 + shipping to most saw builders on this site. On some saws like the 261 the results are amazing,check out some threads on here about the 261 blsnelling has some vids on here that will amaze you !