Your a member there CR-G. I dont know how to link their thread. Just posted today.
Best Top Handle Saw Under $350?
- Thread starter EchoRomeoCharlie
- Start date
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Your a member there CR-G. I dont know how to link their thread. Just posted today.
Just tagged you NP 
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
I saw it great deal !
whats everyones thought on husky/redmax t435 ?
Efco has a new or relatively new top handle. It has an inboard clutch. I likely would get one if gasoline was my preferred drive method. It might be in the price range from a discount dealer. Nice used 338xpt seem to go for around $300 on ebay, one can get a rim drive set up and use 1/4 and .325. I take it the OP settled on an Echo which I think lists for about $450.
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
You can get a 1/4 pitch spur sprocket for the Echo if that's your thing, and MSRP for a new CS-355T is about $350.
You are right about the msrp perhaps it has changed. quite possibly could get into an aftermarket rim drive for the Echo 355t the spur drives for the battery saws in 1/4 inch pitch seem to wear rather fast.
Update for anyone who cares:
Took the 355t up with me on my coyote hunting trip just in case I had time to run it. Luck had it's way and I spent a whole tank trimming some trees for the fella that was hosting the trip.
As far as Ergos, it's a bit heavier than I expected, but it's not unwieldy by any means. I was using it on the ground mainly, just to run it, but it's definitely weird, but I've only ever run rear handled saws before, so it's mainly just a familiarity issue. Anti-vib seems to work well, I didn't notice any more vibe than my other late model saws. Handles feel good in the hands, chain brake engages and disengages well. Entire saw gives off a feeling of quality, which is what I was worried about going from Stihls, but it's a solid saw. All the plastics, that I've looked at are glass fiber reinforced PA6(Nylon) which is very nice impact/chemical/abrasion resistant material.
Started on the 3rd pull, ran beautifully, no issues. Needed a bit of a tweak on the carb settings...it was bogging a bit at first when I would hit the throttle, but I got that remedied. I want to get a tach so I can better adjust the H. I'm probably running it a bit rich on the high end, but I think that's fine at the beginning IMO and it's obviously safer than being too lean.
This was completely stock. Brought it home, took it apart for a cleaning/inspection and all looked good. They cylinder has a good coating of oil. I took the screen out, took a bit off the muffler outlet and removed the baffle or whatever it's called in the air box that covers the hole into the carb.
She pulled the stock chain and ran good so it didn't really need anything, but it's still fun, and who doesn't want more power?
Took the 355t up with me on my coyote hunting trip just in case I had time to run it. Luck had it's way and I spent a whole tank trimming some trees for the fella that was hosting the trip.
As far as Ergos, it's a bit heavier than I expected, but it's not unwieldy by any means. I was using it on the ground mainly, just to run it, but it's definitely weird, but I've only ever run rear handled saws before, so it's mainly just a familiarity issue. Anti-vib seems to work well, I didn't notice any more vibe than my other late model saws. Handles feel good in the hands, chain brake engages and disengages well. Entire saw gives off a feeling of quality, which is what I was worried about going from Stihls, but it's a solid saw. All the plastics, that I've looked at are glass fiber reinforced PA6(Nylon) which is very nice impact/chemical/abrasion resistant material.
Started on the 3rd pull, ran beautifully, no issues. Needed a bit of a tweak on the carb settings...it was bogging a bit at first when I would hit the throttle, but I got that remedied. I want to get a tach so I can better adjust the H. I'm probably running it a bit rich on the high end, but I think that's fine at the beginning IMO and it's obviously safer than being too lean.
This was completely stock. Brought it home, took it apart for a cleaning/inspection and all looked good. They cylinder has a good coating of oil. I took the screen out, took a bit off the muffler outlet and removed the baffle or whatever it's called in the air box that covers the hole into the carb.
She pulled the stock chain and ran good so it didn't really need anything, but it's still fun, and who doesn't want more power?
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah, I don't know why they can't stuff 40cc's into that 35cc package.
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd put the baffle back in the carb. It will soak the filter with spit back without it.
I ground the walls flat in the air box.
Doubles the space for air to flow past the plate and keeps the filter dry.Alright, that makes sense, I'll take a look at doing it that way.
