Brian,
Thanks for the tip!
Actually I'm quite happy with my blades which I get from Bishop for about $14. I think they are Fanno, but now have an extra unneeded hole. They are a bit flimsy, but rarely break, unlike the ones that Sherril used to sell. I have informed Sherril of the problem a couple times, maybe they found a better source.
I'll check out the Marvin ones from BR Arb. Wondering though, if they are thicker, maybe they cut a bit slower? Whaddya think?
Re the hooked blades, they are the cat's meow--been using them for many years. Way better than the saw head hook for hangers, and invaluable for breaking evergreen duff. (twigs under 1/2 inch)
I just ordered a Zubat polesaw, looking forward to it, having used one briefly. I use Jameson hollow poles, 6 and 8 footers, they are adequate. The 21 foot Hayauchi is too fragile, and I broke it last year after using it for 1.5 yrs. But I had damaged it the first time I used it, due to the dang clamps. Plus the detents don't stay in place, and the red clamps are worthless. Scabbard is awesome though, use a minibiner to hang it from the end. But the length and cutting power are great.
Hey I'm happy, 3, count em three Butterfly saddles arrived today via the big brown truck!!!! Thanks Tony!!
Umm, is this thread also for debating the reasons for using a pole saw and the possible problems? Some time ago, I had a heated discussion on da buz* with Tony (Greenman). He didn't know I was not a hack. But he said that Beddes Strasser will never use a pole saw. i also know our great friend and agile warrior Dan Kraus largely exchews their use.
Well anyhow, I think I'm as nimble ( if not quite as fast) as most good climbers at maneuvering throughout a canopy, but find that the work can be done much faster with a pole saw. And, in a nice shade tree, if one is careful, cuts can be made very cleanly and correctly. If not, then I climb out after the cut, if at all possible. So a very small percentage of cuts can end up being sloppy, especially if I get a little lazy or impatient, tired, or move too fast. Hey, no one is perfect, but that can apply to a hand saw cut too...( in shade trees, I do try to limit pole use.)
However, with conifer pruning, at least done to my specifications, it is darn near impossible to do without an extension. I would gladly challenge anyone to come prune a conifer, such as this one in the next few pictures, as I require, which is branch lightening all the way to the tips, without a pole saw. Most likely the work could not be done completely, or it would take over twice as long.
Now I'm not talking about the idea that many conifers do not need thinning, which is often true. However, those that have developed huge, and heavy limbs, from age or previous topping, absolutely require branch lightening, often shortening, to reduce limb failure from wind or snow loading.
Here's one pic from a recent fir we thinned, in Medina, home to Bill Gates and many other opulent estates. Dubya was recently at a $2000 a plate fundraiser at a McCaw (cellular magnates) residence in nearby Hunt's Point. I'll post the rest of the pics in a new thread---"Conifer thinning pics, polesaws, and other prattle" or something....
