Big bore 460 fubar

Patrick62 · Feb 13, 2006

I cut with it today.

Slapped a 16" bar (it is really cute that way:greenchainsaw: ) on it. and headed out to the test logs. Carb needed adjusting anyway, and it does okay. The crap I used for chain probably didn't help much.

The bottom end didn't fly apart, I made about a dozen cuts.

My kit did not go "plop" like was described. I am not sure if porting the cylinder would have helped (it fer-sure would not have hurt anything!!) I kinda think the piston wasn't perfectly round, or some other dimension was off a smirch. This caused it to get cozy with the cylinder. Maybe. Not sure.

I thought I read that they were made in Taiwan? Either way it came from "over the pond".

-pat

klickitatsacket · Feb 13, 2006

I am going to jump to Bailey's defense here. I have built over a dozen modified saws with these kits and have had only one problem. that was a circlip that was not heat treated and it wore out and went through the engine. However bailey's jumped right on it and fixed the problem. SOLVED. The quality of the 046 big bore kits is great. The 44 has a few casting flaws in the transfer ports but the cylinder walls are perfect. The 046 kits are beautiful. For the money these are an exceptional value. Now looking at the pictures you posted: It was not the piston or the cylinder. There was something in the bottom of the crank case as already suggested by others. either something was ingested or your bearing cage broke loose. The damage on the piston and cylinder are definitely from a foreign object.

geofore · Feb 13, 2006

rebuild

When you say you went to start it, did you not turn it over by hand a few times with the spark plug out to see that it had good easy motion? Do you do this BEFORE you put the plug in for the go/run test? You might want to do this next time to see if it turns over easy with no rattles/hangups before you put the plug in and go for it. I've rebuilt a lot of engines and for some reason I turn them over by hand before I put a sparkplug in and go for the run test. The resistance you feel by hand should be minimal if it is greater, it's not compression in the hand test and it does less scratching and damage than the sparkplug in full run test.

tek9tim · Feb 13, 2006

klickitatsacket said:
The damage on the piston and cylinder are definitely from a foreign object.

Yeah, affirm. What he said.

1953greg · Feb 19, 2006

Lakeside53 said:
I agree... quality control really sucks, and Baileys (assuming this thread problem is really their fault) needs to learn from JET, Grizzly (... and almost everyone else), and just about all the ski and sports equipment manufactures - if you move your manufacturing to China, you move your QA people over there too.

I put TS400 "aftermarket" jug/piston on a cut-off saw, and it needed port work to remove the sharp edges - I just ball honed it again, lightly.. Shouldn't need too...

The Piston/cylinder sets from "Germany" on the EBAY right now are all from China...

lakeside, my ref to 3 hours were probably misleading as this was my first cylinder job. i didnt know exactly how to proceed and was being led by a machinest friend on the phone. he didnt know anything bout cylinders but is very knowledgable bout tool work. the edges of the ports were very sharp and needed beveling. that is what took so long. i went very slow. i could probably do another in 45 minutes after knowing what and how to do it.

i have replaced the kit clips w/ the oem ones. they have much more tension. according to dean@whs, the lac of tension was not the problem, it is the hardness. some of the kit ones wore through and let the wrist pins slide out. i would think hardness and tension go together.

saw is on the 3rd tank of fuel. already getting much stronger. im well pleased w/ the performance and look forward to more performance increase.

good day 1953greg