Blake's hitch

[FSburt]

Hi all I was wondering were is there a site that shows a picture of how to tie the Blake's hitch. I currently use the prussic but would like to try a Blake's to see if works any better. Also will be doing a removal of a caltalpa (wonderful tree) from the edge of my house. This is the first time working in one but they seem weak wooded and the literature I have dug up on them supports that was wondering if you guys have any experience climbing them. Tree is lifting the foundation and is not a native to the area and needs clipped. I'm used to climbing Black oak's, P pine, and other native tree's to Central Sierra's. Nice thing is I have a 60 ft Black Oak with limbs that hang over this tree so I plan on rigging a line over the removal to aid in lowering the pieces out.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I dont think its any more brittle then white pine.

I've been out on a limb in a few.


Best pictures I've seen are in Tree Climbers Companion. cost like 12 bucks.

 

[tshanefreeman]

Blake's Hitch Pictorial

Hi FSburt,

So you want to know how to tie the Blake's Hitch. To aid in my explanation, I have included the actual tying picture from the "Tree Climber's Companion" written by Jeff Jepson. If the picture is a little blurry, please understand, for I just took it with my digital camera while sitting at my computer. What service!

1. Make three complete turns, upwards, around the climbing line
2. Pass the end in front of the 'bridge', behind the climbing line and up through the first turn
3. Set and dress the hitch. A Figure-8 stopper knot is recommended in the tail of the line

Here's a hint: Make the first turn of the hitch around your thumb. This creates a tunnel for the tail to be easily passed through.

I personally climb with a Schwabisch Prusik, but have also used the Blake's Hitch. It works well, I just personally chose the prusik over the Blake's. The pre-described book warns that the Blake's has a high potential for causing friction damage to the section of tail that runs through the bottom turn of the hitch as it slides along the climbing line. This is a concern particularily on long and/or fast descents. Reduce this effect by descending at a slow rate of speed or switch to the slightly more forgiving Tautline Hitch.

Hope this is helpful.
Shane Freeman

ps. I am currently studying out of North Dakota and have only had experience with Catalpas growing to a maximum height of about 10 feet. This particular tree does not like the North Dakota zone 3/2 transition. Therefore, I cannot help you with the second portion of your post. Good luck with your removal!

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Shane did a nice job of providing the pic.

Make sure that you cross over the bridge and then go UNDER the rope before you do the tuck. Going over the rope will result in a Sui-slide Hitch. The SIH has the reputation of slipping at the worst time.

Catalpa is a tough tree. They shed branches but so do other trees. Are you sure that the tree is lifting the foundation? In close to thirty years of treework I've only seen one tree that had an effect on a foundation. This was a 45" DBH Burr Oak that was about three feet from the house. The foundation was being repaired, the tree stayed.

Tom

 

[treeman82]

I am currently using the Blake's Hitch. Switched over when I started climbing again a few months ago. I feel that it is much better than using the Taughtline Hitch, which is what I used to use. As far as Catalpa's go, I think that they are garbage. Not bad trees to work in, lot's of dead in them though and often times you will find cavities in the center as has been my experience. The size and location of those cavities will vary so that is another thing to keep in mind. Good luck with doing your removal..

BTW- I love swinging limbs and wood, I feel that it is one of the best ways to lower if you are able to. Just keep in mind what all the parts of your lowering system are capable of (not just the ropes) branch strength / log weight.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i'd click on the Sherrill add upstairs and go to resources and order a Sherrill catalogue immediately; they have a pic in there. They also have other peices of gold burried amongst its pages. Also, a virtual candy store for the addict. While on resources; you might venture into tips, and check out the Schwabisch Prusik. Of course maybe Sean can see if he can post the Blakes in with the 'tips'.........

In Florida i've seen many block/ brick walls cracked with roots headed right into cracked area, leading me to believe the foundation was cracking too. We seem to have several shallow rooters down here , that probably couldn't get away with there act in the colder freezing climate. Also the sand might have something to do with it, for i have seem several foundatins cracked, and one side raised almost an inch from roots apparently!

 

[treeclimber165]

Yup, as much as I respect Tom's opinions I gotta agree with Spyder on this one. Roots may not crack foundations, but roots displace sand. Since FL is all sand, the roots can move enough sand under a foundation to cause cracking. I've seen it hundreds of times here. This may not apply in areas of the country with heavier soil types.

Nice pic of the Blake's hitch, too. Thanks, tshane.

 

[FSburt]

Hey you guys thanks for the replys and the cool picture. I'll write back when I get done and let you guys know how I did. Tom the tree is about 2 ft away from the foundation and cracks are beginning to develop were the tree is at. These trees are weed trees on our compound and they are spreading due to the birds. I live on a historical Forest Service compound built in the early1900's and these trees were planted by occupants over the years but they are starting to spread around mainly near (1-3 ft ) the residences. We get snow 2-3 times a year and last year we had an exceptional amount for us 12-14 inches of wet heavy snow that pushed all the trees on the compound to thier breaking limit. These catalpas were the worst with the interior live oak being a close second due to the heavy canopy cover and leaf surface. These things were snapping like popcorn that fateful night. There are still alot of hanging dead left in the trees so there will be stuff coming down for awhile. Thanks again

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Some one agrees with me? What about my reputation? How can i go on?

 

[Tom Dunlap]

From your post it seems like there are a number of other reasons to remove the trees. If you find that there are trees that you might want to save, take some time with a shovel or get an air spade to do a root excavation. You might find that the roots aren't actually doing the damage. The cracks that are being attributed to the roots amy just be cracks. Soil settling and other things can lead to cracks.

Bob W has written some good articles on alleged root damage to buildings. The articles are on another forum. Write if you want to link up. From what I gather from Bob's research, roots don't have enough "push" to move buildings. When the roots encounter an obstacle, they deflect. When they grow in diameter, it is not in the uniform rings like limbwood. The rhizosphere is an area that a lot, me included, of arbos don't know a lot about. There are a lot of folktales still in circulation that research is proving false.

A while ago I attended a Hazard Tree workshop given by Mark Duntemann. He runs a company that does urban tree inventories. At the time, the company had 1.5 million trees in their database. Mark said that, as a species, catalpa did not even show up on the hazard tree species. Even though they find some with advanced decay they don't seem to fail that often. Sure, a branch here and there, but not the huge calamaties from other species like oaks.

 

[buckkillr8]

just go to ask.com then type knot tying and climbing and wait for the results then scroll down until you see "Knot Knowledge" click it and step by step pics are there.

BEST CLIMBING KNOT!!!

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I have seen some structural damage from trees. I is only in the situation where a large is very near to the structure. It seems to me that the massive butress/sinker roots can putt force on walls/slabs/curbs.

The most frequent I've seen are feild stone, followed by brick fascia.

Of course this is anicdotal and I am not able to evaluate if th construction was done properly

 

[underwor]

Since you are talking about Catalpa, I thought you might enjoy this photo. It is in Prairie City IL. A favorite playground for the neighborhood kids for the past 50 years at least. A natural "jungle gym".

Bob Underwood