Bombing down big blocks

[MasterBlaster]

Broken rake handles?

Great idea there, RB! And you won't have lost yur marbles!

 

[rbtree]

Lost them 40 years ago...

and I'm still lookin'

 

[ORclimber]

I've never done it, but heard of using small diameter metal rods. Wouldn't need to lift up the chunk as much as using a rake handle. A guy could pack a bunch in a tent pole bag or capped pvc pipe.

 

[Stumper]

So why not combine the ideas and carry a bunch of short pieces of small dowels? You won't dull a saw on them if you ding one. They won't weigh much. They don't cost much and if they get raked up and go through the chipper-big deal! Personally the biggest rounds I've had to slice and shove were about 20 inches in diameter and they just weren't that difficult to deal with.

 

[Lumberjack]

For getting really big chunks goin on a no leaner tree, a salami cut in the direction that you want it to go.

For stuff under 4' (havent had to do much blocking that size, biggest norm is 3') I use a snap cut like Rocky said. I make the back cut rather shallow (1/4-1/3 the way through) and then make the backcut over it. Last week I played some with were the holding wood was and how thick it was. With a leaner the snap cut can "stall" like a hinge and be somewhat difficult to break, thats when a shallower front cut is needed. But then you gotta be careful that you dont have the piece break off (snap cut is a great "saw snatcher")

 

[rbtree]

Why all this talk of snap cuts for cutting chunks under 3.5 to 4 feet? It's just a waste of time, and makes a messy round. It is plenty easy to get the bar out if you do the things I mentioned....open a space in the kerf; carry a wedge or better, a felling bar....cut all the way through, push the chunk a ways out while levering up, and the bar comes right out. Works for me on as big a wood as I've ever chunked..

Sometimes I'll cut till only a tiny bit of bark and wood is left, then com in from the outside and nip it quickly, taking care not to catch the chain.

The dowel trick is only for when you need to gain distance...and it does that very well.

 

[Ax-man]

I use the basically the same techniques that have been mentioned. My pry bar is a wedge with a small dia. pipe welded on the end, I also ground the wedge down to fit in the kerf better without having to pound it in. I also welded a small ring on it for a piece of throw line so I can hang it off my saddle. Luckly I don't have to use it all that often, but does come in handy.

If the piece is big enough I'll put a shallow humboldt on the fall side, use two plastic wedges to keep the kerf open, use my homemade pry bar to lift the piece in the middle scoot the wedges in further, keep repeating this till the piece starts to slide off the wedges. A pull rope helps immensely, some times you have to do this to get the piece going in the right direction.

I do have a question on this bombing big wood. Some one was watching us take down a big tree once using this pry and wedge method. The person asked or said " Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the pieces at an angle and let them slide off. " I'm not to keen on this idea myself and have never done it, doubt I will either. Any one ever try do it this way. Just seems to be a little unsafe to me, to try something like this, too unpredictible and I don't think you would have much control over the piece.

Larry

 

[Ax-man]

That dowel trick seems like it would work Rb,

How much extra jump can you get using this dowel trick??

 

[rahtreelimbs]

RB is on this one. I used a wedge and a prybar that I lanyard off to my saddle. Just let 'em hang 'til ya need 'em!!!

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by Ax-man
I do have a question on this bombing big wood. Some one was watching us take down a big tree once using this pry and wedge method. The person asked or said " Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the pieces at an angle and let them slide off. " I'm not to keen on this idea myself and have never done it, doubt I will either. Any one ever try do it this way. Just seems to be a little unsafe to me, to try something like this, too unpredictible and I don't think you would have much control over the piece.

Larry

That is what I call a salami cut. You cut at an angle (shallow) all the way through and you use gravity to help you slide the piece off. You dont cut a huge angle (less than 25* or so), and it helps getting the wood moving, but it isnt normally needed as I can normally get the piece off and down.

What is unsafe about it?

 

[MasterBlaster]

I dunno, maybe the trees around here must be smaller... I just cut thru and push it off.

I have done a couple where I used a wedge(with a hole drilled through it, connected by a shoestring to my saddle) to help with the kerf closing on the bigger ones(3'+?).

I DO make(usually) a level cut, so I can control the piece better.

 

[Ax-man]

LJ,

Your being conservative with your angle. The person that suggested this to me was thinking along the lines of a 45 deg angle. The thought of doing it that way just had no appeal to me.
The first thing that popped into my mind if I was to cut a spar like this, would be like doing a large flush cut on a removal to eliminate a big crotch to reduce weight and to make handling of the piece easier. A cut like this has a lot of force behind it and can slide real quick, unless you have have it roped.

I personally don't see anything wrong with your salami cut as long as you feel you are in control of the situation at all times, I've done this myself a few times. I just prefer a good clean snap cut as opposed to wedge cutting or angles. That little piece of wood that sticks out makes a great handle to pick the piece up with if you have to hand load it.

Larry

 

[Lumberjack]

I rarely use the cur, if it is that big then there are some better options. I have read about it tho, and was just passing knowlege that it is doable. One of its main drawbacks is that when cutting at an angle, the cut time is slower.

I would perfer a snap cut or a pass through cut. One thing that I think I might add to my saddle (when needed) is a small flat crowbar. I dont know its specific name, but I think I could come in handy on big removals.

 

[preach it]

I also use a flush cut. I saw an electric company worker take a tree down in chunks using the angled method. The tree was a spruce and 18" DBH. It was about 30 ft. tall. He cut them off in about 45 deg. angles and they did slide off in the right direction. The angle was enough to make it a real loooong cut and somewhat time consuming. The only advantage I saw was that he didn't have to take his hands off the saw at any time. They were short 2 ft. chunks. I could see in longer chunks that you would have the top of the chunk tipping back on you as it slid off, that could cause a real problem. Flush cuts are safer and easier to control.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

Biggest slabs I deal with are about 5 to 6 feet in diameter, some of the time its easier to stand on the top, cut down the middle in a cross (cutting the pie into 4 bits) then work your way through making your cuts about a foot apart so you can move them.
Its a hard day in the saddle when your spending so much time with mr66. I dont do well for long periods in spikes and sometimes carry old chainsaw bars which I put in as steps after I have done some bore cuts. Yeah its kinda wussy but it saves you alot of unessesary exhaustion and you can give yourself more space from the fumes and dust from the saw.

Thankfully I only hit things that big a few times a year, otherwise I would need an 88.

will try that dowel thing. Do grab a flat crowbar though, they really rock

 

[xtremetrees]

Here is Gords pic I hope he dont mind I use his pic to show what yall talking about.

I have never used this cut. After 10 years of working aloft 8 hrs a day. Something so simple and safe never entered my mind.
I have always used a notch on wood this big or a small snap cut.
I have also pushed the top of the chunk up as my saw was almost thru making the chunk hop and sit as the saw came out the other side.

I like the angle cut and will try it on short pieces.
Thanks for writing what you do.

Here is Big Gord going that extra step down

 

[Tree Trimmer]

I usually cut back to ~1/4 in. of the bark hanging on for small stuff (20 in. or less). If you just cut and push, it's much more likely to bounce off a root and go flying around. I'll saddle the saw and use my handsaw to finish it off by hand (2 or 3 strokes). This way I've got my hand on the weight and can direct it's fall much easier. If its less than 75 lbs, I usually drop it by hand with a little twist so it falls flat.

On the bigger stuff, I'll use the same stick or wedge methods described earlier, depending on the landing zone. If you wiggle the saw in the kerf, you can pull it out pretty easy, but don't wait too long to do so or you'll get stuck.

This is my first post/reply on this forum. Some of you need help..., many don't have a clue..., most of you are flat out NUTS..., looks like I'll fit right in.

 

[xtremetrees]

Welcome to AS tree trimmer.
You got some big trees in your part of NC. I started out in Highlands NC elevation 4118.. Look forward to your post.