rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not sure what that could be. Not likely a rad leak.
The only thing I can think of would be fuel mist from a fuel line pin hole or maybe a loose cover on the carb.
Does that model have an impulse line?
Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about
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Does that model have an impulse line?
conarco13a
ArboristSite Lurker
i don't know if it has or not and impulse line.
can someone confirm that the carburetor is a C1M W47 ?
i don't wanna buy the wrong carb kit
can someone confirm that the carburetor is a C1M W47 ?
i don't wanna buy the wrong carb kit
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
conarco13a
ArboristSite Lurker
thanks!.
i'm not located in the USA so i don't have access to usa prices. over here its 7$ for a carb kit or $25-$30 for a new one.
anyway i was just told by a member here to check the piston before buying anything as air leaks can cause piston scoring. so i'll do that.
i'm not located in the USA so i don't have access to usa prices. over here its 7$ for a carb kit or $25-$30 for a new one.
anyway i was just told by a member here to check the piston before buying anything as air leaks can cause piston scoring. so i'll do that.
Hi Mike! I hope you and yours are keeping well.
conarco13a
ArboristSite Lurker
so the piston is in good shape
!!!. i have a carb kit and new fuel lines. i will attemp to repair it.
!!!. i have a carb kit and new fuel lines. i will attemp to repair it.
conarco13a
ArboristSite Lurker
1)guys the gasket under the carb is broken. the one in between the carb and the intake that goes to the cilinder. does anyone have a part number for that?.
im pretty sure it was broken before i "investigated" but can't be 100% certain
also i'm confused with the hoses. the fuel lines kit i have has 2 colours. a thinner yellow hose and a thicker black hose. but the old hose that goes from the tank (with a big filter) to the carb (right side of the carb) is yellow and thick (as thick as the black one I have). also that old yellow hose seems to be double wall hose, I can see a thinner see through hose inside the yellow one. 2) wich hose should I use as replacement?.
the old hose itself is not cracked but the tip was a bit swollen and loose. also the old hose is pretty stiff. the saw seems to have bled at some point. the hose to the primer bulb is gonna have to be replaced too as it's stiff aswell.
3) the nuts that hold the airfilter case were loose, is that normal in this model chainsaw?
im pretty sure it was broken before i "investigated" but can't be 100% certain
also i'm confused with the hoses. the fuel lines kit i have has 2 colours. a thinner yellow hose and a thicker black hose. but the old hose that goes from the tank (with a big filter) to the carb (right side of the carb) is yellow and thick (as thick as the black one I have). also that old yellow hose seems to be double wall hose, I can see a thinner see through hose inside the yellow one. 2) wich hose should I use as replacement?.
the old hose itself is not cracked but the tip was a bit swollen and loose. also the old hose is pretty stiff. the saw seems to have bled at some point. the hose to the primer bulb is gonna have to be replaced too as it's stiff aswell.
3) the nuts that hold the airfilter case were loose, is that normal in this model chainsaw?
conarco the part number for the carb to intake is 576752501 it includes the intake to cylinder gasket and the muffler gasket (3 gaskets) .
I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this novel on the Poulan Pro 5020. It has made my life easier. I got my saw around 7 years ago and it is still going strong.
I would guess that I am the target consumer for this type of saw. I live in a subdivision that was built between 20 and 25 years ago with lots averaging between .75 to 1.5 acres. The only times I use the saw are to clean up my yard or one of the 'nice' neighbors after a storm. I occasionally trim a few low limbs. If I can't comfortable reach the limb while standing on my sturdy picnic table, I call a tree service. I have never gone through more than a gallon of fuel in a season.
For the first couple of years I really hated this saw!
1. The only fuel easily available in my area had 15% ethanol. I didn't know enough to go looking for ethanol free fuel.
2. I didn't know enough to run the tank dry if I wasn't going to use it for a while.
3. I used the stock chain for several years.
4. I didn't know enough to tune the carburetor.
The saw was very hard to start and cut horribly.... Then I came across this marathon thread and realized that _all_ of my saw's problems were due to operator ignorance.
1. Always use ethanol free fuel in small engines. I am not sure if different regions use different additives in their fuel. The e-85 sold in my area softened the plastic fuel lines in all my small engines. Some local stations now sell 'recreation gas' that is ethanol free. I haven't had a problem with fuel lines gumming up since I switched.
2. Drain the tank and run it dry after each use. Since I mostly use the saw for cleaning up after storms I would put the saw away with a partially full tank of fuel with the intention of draining it later. The fuel would often sit in the tank until the next spring when I got it out for the next storm. The old fuel would gum up the carburetor. It would often take a tank of fresh gas and 30-45 minutes of pulling/cursing to get the thing started. Since I started draining the tank I rarely need more than 10 pulls to get it started.
3. Get a proper chain. At first the saw seemed to cut fine then it kept getting slower and slower. I kept trying to sharpen it but it never got any better. I wrote it off to poor sharpening technique. Then I got an Oregon 72LGX070G chain and my world changed. The chain cut much better and I was able to keep it nice and sharp by just spending a few minutes with the file each time I cleaned it up and put it away. I am not sure if the problem was my poor sharpening technique or the vantage safety chain itself.
4. Get a proper bar for your ability and cutting tasks. As a young man, I was an Army Ranger. I had strength and endurance to spare. I turned 50 last year. I've been working in an office for the last 20 years. A 16 inch bar seems to be more suitable for me. I don't cut anything big enough to warrant a 20 inch bar. The only thing I used the extra 4 inches for was reaching to do a cut. But, let's be honest. At my age and shape, I am better off taking the time to re-position my body to get a good footing rather than reach to save a few seconds.
5. Tune the carburetor. The local dealers will tell you the carburetor is all pre-tuned from the factor and it is illegal to adjust the carburetor yourself. I call BS on that one. My saw seemed to run well enough out of the box, but after it warmed up it never seemed to idle properly. After a cut it would die when idling. You can get a tool from ebay for about $10. Or if you are a cheapskate like me, you can use a 1/4 in dowel with a hole cut in one end to fit over the splines of the adjusting screws.
Now, I am happy as can be with my 5020. It might not compare to the professional grade equipment. For less than $200 it meets my needs just fine.... mostly because the advice on this thread taught me how to use the saw correctly.
P.S. I realize that compared to the chainsaw aficionados on this site I am barely one level above total idiot. But, I have a working tool and all my fingers... and it looks like things are going to stay that way for the foreseeable future.
I would guess that I am the target consumer for this type of saw. I live in a subdivision that was built between 20 and 25 years ago with lots averaging between .75 to 1.5 acres. The only times I use the saw are to clean up my yard or one of the 'nice' neighbors after a storm. I occasionally trim a few low limbs. If I can't comfortable reach the limb while standing on my sturdy picnic table, I call a tree service. I have never gone through more than a gallon of fuel in a season.
For the first couple of years I really hated this saw!
1. The only fuel easily available in my area had 15% ethanol. I didn't know enough to go looking for ethanol free fuel.
2. I didn't know enough to run the tank dry if I wasn't going to use it for a while.
3. I used the stock chain for several years.
4. I didn't know enough to tune the carburetor.
The saw was very hard to start and cut horribly.... Then I came across this marathon thread and realized that _all_ of my saw's problems were due to operator ignorance.
1. Always use ethanol free fuel in small engines. I am not sure if different regions use different additives in their fuel. The e-85 sold in my area softened the plastic fuel lines in all my small engines. Some local stations now sell 'recreation gas' that is ethanol free. I haven't had a problem with fuel lines gumming up since I switched.
2. Drain the tank and run it dry after each use. Since I mostly use the saw for cleaning up after storms I would put the saw away with a partially full tank of fuel with the intention of draining it later. The fuel would often sit in the tank until the next spring when I got it out for the next storm. The old fuel would gum up the carburetor. It would often take a tank of fresh gas and 30-45 minutes of pulling/cursing to get the thing started. Since I started draining the tank I rarely need more than 10 pulls to get it started.
3. Get a proper chain. At first the saw seemed to cut fine then it kept getting slower and slower. I kept trying to sharpen it but it never got any better. I wrote it off to poor sharpening technique. Then I got an Oregon 72LGX070G chain and my world changed. The chain cut much better and I was able to keep it nice and sharp by just spending a few minutes with the file each time I cleaned it up and put it away. I am not sure if the problem was my poor sharpening technique or the vantage safety chain itself.
4. Get a proper bar for your ability and cutting tasks. As a young man, I was an Army Ranger. I had strength and endurance to spare. I turned 50 last year. I've been working in an office for the last 20 years. A 16 inch bar seems to be more suitable for me. I don't cut anything big enough to warrant a 20 inch bar. The only thing I used the extra 4 inches for was reaching to do a cut. But, let's be honest. At my age and shape, I am better off taking the time to re-position my body to get a good footing rather than reach to save a few seconds.
5. Tune the carburetor. The local dealers will tell you the carburetor is all pre-tuned from the factor and it is illegal to adjust the carburetor yourself. I call BS on that one. My saw seemed to run well enough out of the box, but after it warmed up it never seemed to idle properly. After a cut it would die when idling. You can get a tool from ebay for about $10. Or if you are a cheapskate like me, you can use a 1/4 in dowel with a hole cut in one end to fit over the splines of the adjusting screws.
Now, I am happy as can be with my 5020. It might not compare to the professional grade equipment. For less than $200 it meets my needs just fine.... mostly because the advice on this thread taught me how to use the saw correctly.
P.S. I realize that compared to the chainsaw aficionados on this site I am barely one level above total idiot. But, I have a working tool and all my fingers... and it looks like things are going to stay that way for the foreseeable future.
ColdNorCal
ArboristSite Member
Finally had some quality time with the lightly used $30 5020. It would not start so the owner sold it. He admitted leaving gas in it for 1 1/2 year. I got it to start, and start easily 1 -3 pulls, but it accelerate rough and not idle for more then 10-20 seconds. Took the carb apart and the diaphragm was a little stiff, not pliable. Ordered a CW47 carb knockoff with lines and filter for $12 that will arrive next week. Hope it works...
The piston on the intake side looks perfect. The exhaust side has some very light lines but only on the bottom half of the piston. The top half is clean. To see the lines the flash light has to be pointed at a certain direction. Not ideal but I dont think its a problem either. The plastic intake manifold portion of the carb was very dirty with lots of debris. The filter looked clean though. He either cleaned the filter at some point or the filter leaks like crazy.
I removed the muffler, cut slits on each side of the exhaust deflector that sits on top of the muffler. I bent the deflector back, opened up that one small hole for the exhaust into an area about 2 1/2 times the original hole size and bent the deflector partially back. I also modified, more bending, the deflector to allow more and better airflow and left the spark arrestor in place.
Good times ahead...
The piston on the intake side looks perfect. The exhaust side has some very light lines but only on the bottom half of the piston. The top half is clean. To see the lines the flash light has to be pointed at a certain direction. Not ideal but I dont think its a problem either. The plastic intake manifold portion of the carb was very dirty with lots of debris. The filter looked clean though. He either cleaned the filter at some point or the filter leaks like crazy.
I removed the muffler, cut slits on each side of the exhaust deflector that sits on top of the muffler. I bent the deflector back, opened up that one small hole for the exhaust into an area about 2 1/2 times the original hole size and bent the deflector partially back. I also modified, more bending, the deflector to allow more and better airflow and left the spark arrestor in place.
Good times ahead...
Sorry to drag up an old thread how dose the power compare to a 4218. Can it handle a 20" bar or is it to much?
TBS
I have chainsaws and chainsaw accessories.
The power is a good bit more than the 4218 and does fine with a 20 inch bar but is better off with a 16 or 18.
Ok I am.looking a grabbing a used one. All my other saws are 42cc plastic poulans. Theres a few real big maples at my moms house that need to come down and figured I may need a bigger saw. Than the 42cc. Still cant decided if I need it or not lol
5020 with muffler mod and retune really runs well with a 16” bar. They are pretty doggy in stock form but wake up significantly when you open the muffler. Turns them into a snappy, fun saw to run.
They can pull a 20” bar too and you’ll be pleasantly surprised compared to the 4218.
Yep agree with SVK.
What's a good chain to run on the 20" just picked up a used one
What are you cutting
Ash oak and maple
You know you could use a full skip chain JGX on the 20" to help the 50cc out with hardwood cuts buried.
I did this for a guy that insisted on running full 3/8 chain and 20" on a partner 500. Worked out good for him.
It seemed much happier with 16" in my testing. But 20" for those that must do such.
Toss up between skip and full comp. I’d go with chisel chain either way unless you are cutting skidded wood then do semi chisel.
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