Briggs and Stratton Build

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hi chaps, I was given a Briggs 3hp yesterday by the owner of my local Stihl shop from 1974.

It had spark, but lost it shortly after warming up so I decided to do a complete tear dow, deep clean and rebuild. Runs flawlessly now. Everything was within factory specs / tolerances and I didn’t need to replace anything other than a gasket I made.

 

[cranman1951]

nice work...

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Sorry, I have just realised I posted this in chainsaw forums rather than the large equipment page. Force of habit, mods please feel free to move at your discretion.

 

[ozziechainsaw]

Very cool work. Looks sensational.

Justin

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Very cool work. Looks sensational.

Justin

Thanks mate

 

[Mad Professor]

Now you need to find an old mini-bike/scooter, or reel mower, to mount it on!

 

[KMSwr]

Nice job, alot better than the newer briggs engines,, I never could find a model or type number for a briggs china made ? on a log splitter that I needed a choke lever for,ended up going to a scrap yard and salvaging one.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Nice job, alot better than the newer briggs engines,, I never could find a model or type number for a briggs china made ? on a log splitter that I needed a choke lever for,ended up going to a scrap yard and salvaging one.

Absolutely, I agree. The newer Chinese made Briggs are very much made to a price point and leave a lot to be desired. They do their intended job and to most consumers that’s all that matters though I suppose? It’s so nice to have worked on a couple of these old Briggs now, one was on my dads old tiller I use to use as a child. It brought back memories to hear the engine, for both me and my dad.

 

[joe25DA]

Great job. I just did a head gasket and carb rebuild on an ‘85 I/C Briggs powering my Giant vac leaf blower. The L head Briggs were great engines. I’ve had many Toro snowblowers 8/26 & 11/32 no newer than 1982 and they all ran well under commercial duty.

 

[Mad Professor]

Besides the Briggs, the old USA made Kohlers and Tecumseh lasted a good long time too.

I have one of each from 1972, the Kohler is a 14 HP in a Ford/Jacobsen lawn tractor and a 6HP Tecumseh in a Troy Built rototiller. Neither engine has much of anything done to them besides being matainence. Plugs and points along with oil changes and air filters. I did have to rebuild the carbs after running E10 in them.

 

[sean donato]

Great job. I just did a head gasket and carb rebuild on an ‘85 I/C Briggs powering my Giant vac leaf blower. The L head Briggs were great engines. I’ve had many Toro snowblowers 8/26 & 11/32 no newer than 1982 and they all ran well under commercial duty.

Agreed, my cub cadet 582 has a 16hp ic opposed Briggs in it. Hasn't missed a beat since they day my pop bought it way back when on the farm.

 

[joe25DA]

My WH tractor has a Koehler M12 and that engine runs like a clock. It’s incredible how hard I’ve pushed that machine (not abused) and it’s a powerhouse. I know I could drag 2 20hp Home Depot specials across the lot without working it hard. I had an 18hp I/C twin in a WH workhorse very strong

 

[KASH]

Sean those Briggs twins were great engines but they have a bad habit of the valve seats coming loose I peen the seats on any I service.
Those old Kohler K series were dead nuts reliable except for the later ones with counter balance gears I take those counter balance gears out I do not see any difference in Vibration.Old Briggs were good engines I remember when I worked for the railway back in 75 it was bitter cold about 35 below and there was a broken rail the section foreman went to start the brand new rail saw the rewind broke first pull.When I took it apart we could not believe our eyes the rewind pulley was plastic.We all agreed they would never continue to use plastic but its all plastic now.
Kash

 

[sean donato]

Sean those Briggs twins were great engines but they have a bad habit of the valve seats coming loose I peen the seats on any I service.
Those old Kohler K series were dead nuts reliable except for the later ones with counter balance gears I take those counter balance gears out I do not see any difference in Vibration.Old Briggs were good engines I remember when I worked for the railway back in 75 it was bitter cold about 35 below and there was a broken rail the section foreman went to start the brand new rail saw the rewind broke first pull.When I took it apart we could not believe our eyes the rewind pulley was plastic.We all agreed they would never continue to use plastic but its all plastic now.
Kash

Fortunately I haven't had any issue with it as of yet, but I do have a spare 18hp sitting here that I rebuilt a wile ago. My 782 cub had a kt17 in it. Less then impressed with that engine. (Series 1) now it has an m18 in it. Valve guides are a tad on the loose side and nla from what I was told, but she runs like a raped ape.

 

[joe25DA]

Sean those Briggs twins were great engines but they have a bad habit of the valve seats coming loose I peen the seats on any I service.
Those old Kohler K series were dead nuts reliable except for the later ones with counter balance gears I take those counter balance gears out I do not see any difference in Vibration.Old Briggs were good engines I remember when I worked for the railway back in 75 it was bitter cold about 35 below and there was a broken rail the section foreman went to start the brand new rail saw the rewind broke first pull.When I took it apart we could not believe our eyes the rewind pulley was plastic.We all agreed they would never continue to use plastic but its all plastic now.
Kash

When I had my 84 work horse the first thing I did was pull of the heads and stake in the seats. Mine were good but it was cheap insurance

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

When I had my 84 work horse the first thing I did was pull of the heads and stake in the seats. Mine were good but it was cheap insurance

what does stake in the seats mean?

 

[joe25DA]

what does stake in the seats mean?

Per the Briggs service manual, remove the head, clean valves, top of block, then you take a center punch and ball peen hammer and “stake” in the area where the hardened steel seal is machined in to the block. You set the punch in the aluminum right beside the seat. The “marks” create pressure against the seat preventing them from moving. The manual calls for 10-12 evenly set around the seat.

 

[Canyon Angler]

Besides the Briggs, the old USA made Kohlers and Tecumseh lasted a good long time too.

I loved those old Tecumsehs. Back around 1982 I had an old Craftsman push mower with an aluminum deck and a Tecumseh motor. The motor had no throttle control -- it was just governed (basically if it was "on" it was at the recommended throttle speed) and to kill it, you had a lever to ground out the plug IIRC. The governor on that motor worked GREAT. I swear, I tried to stall it by running through tall grass fast, and it just tractored down and gobbled it up. Plus the aluminum mower deck was light as a feather and would never rust out. I wish I still had that mower today!

 

[ray benson]

Per the Briggs service manual, remove the head, clean valves, top of block, then you take a center punch and ball peen hammer and “stake” in the area where the hardened steel seal is machined in to the block. You set the punch in the aluminum right beside the seat. The “marks” create pressure against the seat preventing them from moving. The manual calls for 10-12 evenly set around the seat.

Joe what is the Briggs service manual number?

 

[joe25DA]