Brush cutter blades
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Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Here's some underbrush I cleared yesterday. Had some pretty big saplings, lots of thick briars, rotted limbs, and bushes. Tractor was to big to get the brushhog in under the low hanging branches. Good job for the F250.
kirko
ArboristSite Operative
Anyone tried one of these,,
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
would be awesome in a 350mm version.
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
would be awesome in a 350mm version.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
I've got a couple of those, but they're still brand new in the bag.
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Those would be great to try. If you don't mind me asking, Sagetown, where did you get those Tri wing mulcher blades?
And has anyone here ever seen a Brush Destructor blade? It is intersting to say the least but a little pricy for my blood: http://brushdestructor.com/brushdestructor-home-page/blade-options-and-prices/
And has anyone here ever seen a Brush Destructor blade? It is intersting to say the least but a little pricy for my blood: http://brushdestructor.com/brushdestructor-home-page/blade-options-and-prices/
This is the one I was rating as best in post 5 at least best for my definition of brush that is larger than ideal for 3 prong blades. There are two thicknesses of 3 prong blades in the 12 inch size I have run across. The circular saw or table saw like blades in my opinion make a dust that is annoying to the throat. I also have not used the chainsaw tooth cutter on a disc variety but in actual face to face discussions they seem versatile.
With the size machine and size blade I use full rpm and a swipe is good for at least 1 1/2 inches per swat.
Diesel fuel brush hog flail mower that kind of thing as much as possible. Chain and pull out the roots. Maybe we could discuss whether the three prong blade beating up the brush stumps makes them less likely to make as many or as healthy sprouts compared to a smooth cut.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Howdy ANewSawyer: That would be ' 7Sleeper ' , I don't use 'em.
Anyone use the three swinging blades 'brush destructer' setup with replacable blades? I got one and its pretty good for woody berry brush etc.
kirko
ArboristSite Operative
Hey CR888 ,
Have you used shredder/mulching blades,,if so how do you think the brushdestructor adds up as a mulching blade in comparison.
I clear lantana etc for a living and this vid put me off the brush destructor
An fs 550 with a 320mm shredder blade makes this bloke look silly.
All side ways cuts,,nothing up and down,,seems to hint at no shredding capabilities.
Have you used shredder/mulching blades,,if so how do you think the brushdestructor adds up as a mulching blade in comparison.
I clear lantana etc for a living and this vid put me off the brush destructor
An fs 550 with a 320mm shredder blade makes this bloke look silly.
All side ways cuts,,nothing up and down,,seems to hint at no shredding capabilities.
ncpete
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the way that works, seems to be exactly what would serve my needs best. Hmmmm, how to get the wife over the cost.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
They are very similar in effect to the version I mentionend above. The only difference is that the blades are NOT bent 90° but only 45°! The reason to do this as far as I understand is that the chances of hitting the ground with the bent down ends is reduced significantly! That is the reason I mentioned above that when using these type of mulcher blades you HAVE to have PRO equipement! Your gearing will NOT survive multiple ground hits with a hobby trimmer!!! When only mulching you can be happy if your gearing survives one season!!!
CAUTION!!!
ALL colapsable / foldable blades are FORBIDDEN in the german speaking parts of Europe! The reason is that that it has already happenend with other manufacturers that the "eyelets" cracked and the blade flew out!!! severely hurting inguring others! The mass of the attachment is quite high so something turning at around 7 - 10 thousand rpm sure has some energy stored ready to be releaced on the poor soul who comes in it's way!!! I would NEVER use them irrespective of what a company says! The same counts for the models with chains or other "cool" looking attachments! People and property have been severly injured and damaged with all "non solid" type attachments.
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One word I have for those shredder blades is BLACKBERRIES. They are the perfect tool on an FS 250 R.
The only blade type not mentioned sofar is the mulcher blade. They exist with two or more blades with the end bent down which point to the ground. They require a straight schaft, minimum 40cc engine and are absolutely devastating! If you use one I HIGHLY recomend a forest helmet with full face shield and tough pants or some even use a welding apron. Look like this
the effect is like this.
7
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
There seems to be some confusion over my post. I was trying to ask about the Oregon Tri Wing bent mulcher blades. Sagetown, this is what I am asking about: http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
As to the brush destructor, it looks like a toy to me. Albeit, a very dangerous toy. I have no interest in it, I just wanted opinions. A circular saw blade + some type of mulcher would be much cheaper than the brush destructor and a whole lot more useful.
Oh, and SHREDDER BLADE FTW! That is one thing we can agree upon.
As to the brush destructor, it looks like a toy to me. Albeit, a very dangerous toy. I have no interest in it, I just wanted opinions. A circular saw blade + some type of mulcher would be much cheaper than the brush destructor and a whole lot more useful.
Oh, and SHREDDER BLADE FTW! That is one thing we can agree upon.
It is evident there is a cut out for some sort of locating key on this one : http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...-brushcutter-blades/showitem-OR-295508-0.aspx
Would that indicate what sort of device it is really intended for?
Would that indicate what sort of device it is really intended for?
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Those tri tip bent blades look great for mulching vines but not saplings bigger than 3/4".
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Intended for brushcutters, nothing else!
With the double tip variant I have cut up to 1,5 inch with no problem whatsoever! I usually go top down because it is the fastest way to let a sapling "disappear"...
But when you have multiple close together, just dropping them all and then mulching them away, a few passes right to left on the lying down sapplings, is equally fun...
7
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
Hey; ANewSawyer: I'm with ya, but I know less than what sawfun, 7sleeper, and kirko is telling us.
Most all my blades are 10", even on my '70s 21 cc Echo.
3-lobed AMA blades for ~$10 work very well on up to ~1" woody stuff, can be "popped" into the tangle. Easy sharpening with flat file, or flip over for second set of edges. Edges are durable.
8-tooth with short knives at the periphery work well on being "popped" into woody stems up to ~3/4", and on any sort of grass/vines. They're pretty easy to sharpen with flat file, round file at the root of the cutter. 3- or 8-tooth blades preferable for weedwhacking except nylon string near walls & stuff.
80-tooth saw blades work well on wood up to ~4", if you feed them in gradually. Forget sharpening with file, and they dull pretty quickly.
40-tooth "renegade" blades with carbide teeth can be had from Amazon for ~$15 each. Cut aggressively, haven't finished with first yet.
RazorMax 9" chainsaw-cutter blade cuts pretty easily into saplings, sharpens with 3/16" 'round' file. Lots of testing coming up eventually.
What works for me: whack whatever possible with 3- or 8-tooth blades first; then go to 40-tooth carbide or 80-tooth steel for big stuff.
For pricing, Amazon has many blades that are more than competitive with the big brand names, IMO. Often way more.
3-lobed AMA blades for ~$10 work very well on up to ~1" woody stuff, can be "popped" into the tangle. Easy sharpening with flat file, or flip over for second set of edges. Edges are durable.
8-tooth with short knives at the periphery work well on being "popped" into woody stems up to ~3/4", and on any sort of grass/vines. They're pretty easy to sharpen with flat file, round file at the root of the cutter. 3- or 8-tooth blades preferable for weedwhacking except nylon string near walls & stuff.
80-tooth saw blades work well on wood up to ~4", if you feed them in gradually. Forget sharpening with file, and they dull pretty quickly.
40-tooth "renegade" blades with carbide teeth can be had from Amazon for ~$15 each. Cut aggressively, haven't finished with first yet.
RazorMax 9" chainsaw-cutter blade cuts pretty easily into saplings, sharpens with 3/16" 'round' file. Lots of testing coming up eventually.
What works for me: whack whatever possible with 3- or 8-tooth blades first; then go to 40-tooth carbide or 80-tooth steel for big stuff.
For pricing, Amazon has many blades that are more than competitive with the big brand names, IMO. Often way more.
I've used this blade for years and it will zip through a 2" tree with ease! and is easy to sharpen. Anything larger and the kerf isn't wide enough and it will start to bind a bit, I would say the chainsaw tooth type would work better anything larger.
That is my thinking pretty much. The manual for the brush cutter for something larger than 2" has instructions of how to make cuts from both sides. Folks can use different things, at the present it seems just cutting high enough so that blade to work in one pass and then cutting real close with a small chainsaw while in kneeling position works best considering driving over/tripping hazard and damaging the blade as opposed to the chain when the view is better.
