Never thought about that, One of them could mess ya up in a hurry. Best to stay with the ones that are recommended for brushcutters.
brush cutter blades
- Thread starter Lloyd H
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gtread
ArboristSite Lurker
Brushcutter
Yes Lawnmowertech37.
I have an Echo SRM210 straight shaft with 9" carbide blade as I recall I think it is a Tanaka sells for about $50. and well worth it. it has a one inch arbor hole. some echo dealers carry the 1" replacement arbors, or use a bushing to shim. they are available on the net through carbide concrete saw blade dealers.
Hope that helps.
gtread
Yes Lawnmowertech37.
I have an Echo SRM210 straight shaft with 9" carbide blade as I recall I think it is a Tanaka sells for about $50. and well worth it. it has a one inch arbor hole. some echo dealers carry the 1" replacement arbors, or use a bushing to shim. they are available on the net through carbide concrete saw blade dealers.
Hope that helps.
gtread
Seeking Blade Comparison Info
Does anyone have experience with using both the Beaver Blade and Maxi Blade (http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?skw=Maxi+Blade&PageNo=1) ?
I have the 9" Beaver Blade and it has worked great. However, the teeth are approaching the point of being too worn to be sharpened anymore (I have hit a few rocks and I think a nail or wire in some small saplings) and I am looking to purchase a new blade. The Maxi Blade is about 1/2 the price, which is attractive if the performance is close to or equal to the Beaver Blade.
If anyone who has used both and can comment, I would appreciate it.
Does anyone have experience with using both the Beaver Blade and Maxi Blade (http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?skw=Maxi+Blade&PageNo=1) ?
I have the 9" Beaver Blade and it has worked great. However, the teeth are approaching the point of being too worn to be sharpened anymore (I have hit a few rocks and I think a nail or wire in some small saplings) and I am looking to purchase a new blade. The Maxi Blade is about 1/2 the price, which is attractive if the performance is close to or equal to the Beaver Blade.
If anyone who has used both and can comment, I would appreciate it.
Windsor recommends the Maxi pattern brushcutter blade for 40cc gas brushcutters and XRT for smaller engines -
http://www.windsorforestry.com/products/blades/clearing_blades.shtm
while Oregon is just the opposite, recommends the Maxi blade for smaller 24cc engines and the XRT for the larger engines.
http://shopping.aol.com/oregon-22-tooth-8-brush-blade-41-934/97347991/details
What's up - any thoughts and experiences for why the difference ? Thanks in advance.
http://www.windsorforestry.com/products/blades/clearing_blades.shtm
while Oregon is just the opposite, recommends the Maxi blade for smaller 24cc engines and the XRT for the larger engines.
http://shopping.aol.com/oregon-22-tooth-8-brush-blade-41-934/97347991/details
What's up - any thoughts and experiences for why the difference ? Thanks in advance.
Nailgunner
ArboristSite Operative
best chat-up line EVER!
Sorry, as you were. I tried stainless steel blades on a brushcutter, they cut grass brilliantly until one buckled, and that was that. back to nylon line.
I think I'm going to just get the beaver blade -
After thinking about it after reading stories of parts of steel blades chipping and flying off
after inadvertently hitting rock or maybe a bit of barbed wire or sometin',
I'll just feel safer with the chainsaw type blade.
There's enough vibration with the cutting at the end of a long stick -
and less chance of kickback with the chainsaw teeth.
and btw, check out this insanity with a brushcutter -
- in shorts, no eye protection, and in the water -
(he steps into deeper water toward the end) :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmwaXqcnvRo&feature=related
A. Stanton
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use the the Beaver blade at the moment, the one with the chain-saw teeth. Easy to sharper, but I don't think it likes the small stuff. Had one tooth break off when I must of hit a rock. They come in recommended different diameters depending about the cc of your machine. I think they are easier to sharpen than the black blades than are sold. I have to have the black ones sharpen by a retired tool maker--my fil.
Frank Boyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
We have Scotch Broom that gats up to 3" diameter,usually around an inch. Beaver blades are the way to go. Keep them sharp and they will cut from grass to saplings.
My neighbor had a plain steel blade come apart and hit his leg hard enough to break the bone. Think safety.
My neighbor had a plain steel blade come apart and hit his leg hard enough to break the bone. Think safety.
Carbide Brushcutter Bladess are better than a BEAVER blade for many reasons
I found the BEAVER blade too thick (fat), therefore its cut had a wider cut-swath that added lots of frustrating friction. It was prone to siezing in green tree limbs. It was not versatile like a CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADE in that it could not do multiple jobs like: (1) hedge, (2) prune the flexible bendable tips of bushes and trees very well, nor (3) brush cut or bramble hack well, but ONLY cut semi thick tree limbs ONLY sort of well (very limited design and function). The CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADES I use do it "ALL" so I don't have to change blade types all the time adding to the TIME COST of the job. It is not just the cost of the blade and how long it stays sharp, but the "TIME" it takes to re-sharpen and the "TIME" to change blades for versatility, that when added to the initial cost of the blade is the real true "OVERALL COST" of the blade used. Additionally, the BEAVER has a chain around the outside of the blade which like a CHAINSAW CHAIN (uh, can you say problematic). It has multiple moving parts known as LINKS and the necessary RIVETS connecting each link that add FRICTION on the sides of the chain. That's right, a chainsaw chain only has teeth on the top of the chain with lots of friction rivet heads on the sides at each LINK. Who needs added FRICTION from the rivets on the side of the chain in your cut swath, I don't... When I used the BEAVER BLADE I found it needed OIL to stay slippery just like my chian saw, which was a hassle and added oil cost to my blade cost (with oil I got less friction). Adding insult to injury, a Beaver Blade has "plain ordinary steel" teeth that dull in a snap just like my chain saw does, so out comes the round file to mess with filing the teeth to keep it sharp (yuk!). More time and hassle, no thanks. The Beaver Blade costs a lot of money and all you get is about 25 teeth (if that) as the total aggregate cutting surface offered as compared to the 80 to 100 teeth "CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADES" I use. So in short, a Beaver costs too much in every way. I should add that I have used the "Plain Steel" Echo or Stihl blades as well and they dull out like the BEAVER in that "PLAIN STEEL" dulls in 15 minutes or less. Fact is, CARBIDE lasts 10 times longer but is not 10x more in cost, not even double (actually less!). The Carbidebrushcutterblades I buy are actually about 12 to 15 bucks a piece so you can throw then away three times over before you get to the cost of one BEAVER Blade. The Carbide Brushcutter Blades cost way less than the $23 for the Stihl or Echo 80 teeth "plain steel" and last 10x longer so there ya go... I have used and recommend 80 to 100 teeth Garden Trimmer -- Weed Whacker Blades for less grabbing, tearing and yanking than any 20 or 40 teeth blade since deep larger teeth blades don't have carbide down in their teeth valley gaps. 80 to 100 teeth delivers less siezing and is better for hedging (they hedge better than my clackity plain steel teeth hedger any day of the week), and for more aggregate cutting surface at the cut. So how can you beat that many cutting tips for the money? I say, spread the cut over 100 CARBIDE teeth instead of over 25 PLAIN STEEL for 1/3 the cost, as why the BEAVER "does NOT cut it" and the pun is intended. CARBIDE is the way to go, period. We are not allowed to mention any websites on here so I won't but they are on the web.
I found the BEAVER blade too thick (fat), therefore its cut had a wider cut-swath that added lots of frustrating friction. It was prone to siezing in green tree limbs. It was not versatile like a CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADE in that it could not do multiple jobs like: (1) hedge, (2) prune the flexible bendable tips of bushes and trees very well, nor (3) brush cut or bramble hack well, but ONLY cut semi thick tree limbs ONLY sort of well (very limited design and function). The CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADES I use do it "ALL" so I don't have to change blade types all the time adding to the TIME COST of the job. It is not just the cost of the blade and how long it stays sharp, but the "TIME" it takes to re-sharpen and the "TIME" to change blades for versatility, that when added to the initial cost of the blade is the real true "OVERALL COST" of the blade used. Additionally, the BEAVER has a chain around the outside of the blade which like a CHAINSAW CHAIN (uh, can you say problematic). It has multiple moving parts known as LINKS and the necessary RIVETS connecting each link that add FRICTION on the sides of the chain. That's right, a chainsaw chain only has teeth on the top of the chain with lots of friction rivet heads on the sides at each LINK. Who needs added FRICTION from the rivets on the side of the chain in your cut swath, I don't... When I used the BEAVER BLADE I found it needed OIL to stay slippery just like my chian saw, which was a hassle and added oil cost to my blade cost (with oil I got less friction). Adding insult to injury, a Beaver Blade has "plain ordinary steel" teeth that dull in a snap just like my chain saw does, so out comes the round file to mess with filing the teeth to keep it sharp (yuk!). More time and hassle, no thanks. The Beaver Blade costs a lot of money and all you get is about 25 teeth (if that) as the total aggregate cutting surface offered as compared to the 80 to 100 teeth "CARBIDE BRUSHCUTTER BLADES" I use. So in short, a Beaver costs too much in every way. I should add that I have used the "Plain Steel" Echo or Stihl blades as well and they dull out like the BEAVER in that "PLAIN STEEL" dulls in 15 minutes or less. Fact is, CARBIDE lasts 10 times longer but is not 10x more in cost, not even double (actually less!). The Carbidebrushcutterblades I buy are actually about 12 to 15 bucks a piece so you can throw then away three times over before you get to the cost of one BEAVER Blade. The Carbide Brushcutter Blades cost way less than the $23 for the Stihl or Echo 80 teeth "plain steel" and last 10x longer so there ya go... I have used and recommend 80 to 100 teeth Garden Trimmer -- Weed Whacker Blades for less grabbing, tearing and yanking than any 20 or 40 teeth blade since deep larger teeth blades don't have carbide down in their teeth valley gaps. 80 to 100 teeth delivers less siezing and is better for hedging (they hedge better than my clackity plain steel teeth hedger any day of the week), and for more aggregate cutting surface at the cut. So how can you beat that many cutting tips for the money? I say, spread the cut over 100 CARBIDE teeth instead of over 25 PLAIN STEEL for 1/3 the cost, as why the BEAVER "does NOT cut it" and the pun is intended. CARBIDE is the way to go, period. We are not allowed to mention any websites on here so I won't but they are on the web.
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Some years ago I acquired a 8" 8 tooth saw blade on a not running Mac weed whacker. I came across this device this past summer and installed it on a running Mac 32 straight shaft bike handle trimmer mainly because the adapter fit.
I looked at installing it on my Echo SRM 2400 and Stihl FS 55 straight shaft trimmers but the adapter flanges would not fit.
These blades appear to be common on the Internet.
It works nice on the heavy weed stems, briar's, and tree sprouts.
It was dull and I sharpened it with a smooth edge raker file. I blended the fillets with a rat tail file.
There's a lot of inertia in the blade. You should speed it up slowly and keep the speed up. When done, back off the speed slowly.
I looked at installing it on my Echo SRM 2400 and Stihl FS 55 straight shaft trimmers but the adapter flanges would not fit.
These blades appear to be common on the Internet.
It works nice on the heavy weed stems, briar's, and tree sprouts.
It was dull and I sharpened it with a smooth edge raker file. I blended the fillets with a rat tail file.
There's a lot of inertia in the blade. You should speed it up slowly and keep the speed up. When done, back off the speed slowly.
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
That Beaver blade is hideous. I see why it motivated bbanddog to plaster up a wall of text...
Been running a couple Forrester saw chain blades for a while now, and they actually work as advertised, and hold up better than I figured.
Just cutter links riveted to the disk so the kerf is wide enough not to drag like the silly Beaver thing.
Best part is the round file will touch them up quick, and they are CHEAP at 10 bucks a pop.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
Been running a couple Forrester saw chain blades for a while now, and they actually work as advertised, and hold up better than I figured.
Just cutter links riveted to the disk so the kerf is wide enough not to drag like the silly Beaver thing.
Best part is the round file will touch them up quick, and they are CHEAP at 10 bucks a pop.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
I ran a discarded 10" non-carbide blade from my tablesaw on my Honda 4-stroke. That thing was a beast. Much better than the blade that came with it. My problem was that I had to open the blade up to mount to the 1" arbor on the trimmer. The hole was just slightly too large, making it difficult to center and caused some vibration. The extra flywheel effect given by the heavier blade was an unexpected bonus.
bigredd
ArboristSite Guru
Using non-recommended blades for your brush cutter can be extremely dangerous. You don't want to be on the receiving end of a exploding blade spinning 3000 rpm.
jus2fat
Two Harley Fatboys
Where can I buy them at that price...?? I SURE would buy some at that price..!!
Forester website shows $20.25...??
J2F
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
Where can I buy them at that price...?? I SURE would buy some at that price..!!
Forester website shows $20.25...??
J2F
PM sent.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
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