blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
oh, trimmer got enough power to fall trees? didnt know that for sure.... must be that i never used a trimmer, my clearing saw with triangle blade does that job too :hmm3grin2orange:
Brush-cutting
- Thread starter MAG58
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oh, trimmer got enough power to fall trees? didnt know that for sure.... must be that i never used a trimmer, my clearing saw with triangle blade does that job too :hmm3grin2orange:
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
Yes you can use some trimmers for cutting trees (you can get saw blade for some of them) but we are talking about allot smaller trees, and mush slower cutting then a High RPM Clearing saw
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When using clearing-saw as trimmer, make sure you turn the H-jet out a bit.Might save the day. Stihl clearing-saws comes with two handlebars, straight+elevated.
I opened up the muffler a little on the 343 e-tech. Gained a little(I think), but still no torque-monster..
/Nisse
I opened up the muffler a little on the 343 e-tech. Gained a little(I think), but still no torque-monster..
/Nisse
I have a fs250 and it comes in handy on alot of brushing jobs but all and all there nuthen better for brush than a bull dozer
Woodie
"Cap'n Bullcrap'n"
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
I have one older Husqvarna 232 RD, Brush-cutters, and Grass-trimmer, whit split rigging tube. On this I use triangle blade, and grass blade on one rig, and trimmer string on the other one. For this Husky you can get saw blade to.
The main deferents one the Grass-trimmer/Brush-cutter, is that the rig tube is longer, more angle on the handle bars, trigger type throttle, and lower top RPM. And this one is to light to do real cutting like a Clearing saw.
So real Clearing saw, are just another type of animal.
The main deferents one the Grass-trimmer/Brush-cutter, is that the rig tube is longer, more angle on the handle bars, trigger type throttle, and lower top RPM. And this one is to light to do real cutting like a Clearing saw.
So real Clearing saw, are just another type of animal.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I guess you really refer to the 265........
SawTroll
Information Collector
I use the FS200, which has the same power rating, but from a 36cc engine vs. 40cc (EPA again, I believe) - but I wouldn't want the loop handle on it.........
Works very well for both grass and bruch (came with two trimmer heads, and two saw blades) - guess who bought it for me..........:rockn: :rockn:
My brother has promised me a ported RS51, but haven't seen it yet..........
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Yellowdog
ArboristSite Operative
I picked up an fs550. Really like it but haven't found time to use it. Been waiting for the right job as I usually Bobcat shredders and grinders for clearing underbrush. I am thinking of training someone on it because it is much safer than a chainsaw and ergonomically it is easy to operate.
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
And it's just legal whit loop handle on string trimmers here.
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
that must be it, the second generation of 164 if i remember right.... not that much into clearing saws...
SawTroll
Information Collector
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK, time to revive the thread.
So I found a NIB Echo 260 string trimmer for a price I couldn't pass up. This model has the flex shaft, though the IPL suggests that there was a 260S that used a solid shaft and it looks like the solid shaft would swap in to my new unit. Am I correct to assume that I should not so much as consider a brush blade (to say nothing for a clearing saw blade) without a solid shaft? I suspect that this is the case, but I wanted to make sure. I know that this is no powerhouse in the clearing department, but since 99% of its use will be on grass I figured what the heck.
I'm figuring that I'll eventually find a used clearing saw for clearing duties, and the Echo will be for string trimming only. The only challenge, of course, is actually FINDING a used clearing saw...saw my first used one ever on eBay this morning, heavens knows when the next one will come up.
So I found a NIB Echo 260 string trimmer for a price I couldn't pass up. This model has the flex shaft, though the IPL suggests that there was a 260S that used a solid shaft and it looks like the solid shaft would swap in to my new unit. Am I correct to assume that I should not so much as consider a brush blade (to say nothing for a clearing saw blade) without a solid shaft? I suspect that this is the case, but I wanted to make sure. I know that this is no powerhouse in the clearing department, but since 99% of its use will be on grass I figured what the heck.
I'm figuring that I'll eventually find a used clearing saw for clearing duties, and the Echo will be for string trimming only. The only challenge, of course, is actually FINDING a used clearing saw...saw my first used one ever on eBay this morning, heavens knows when the next one will come up.
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
anything else than trimmer end needs solid shaft, wouldnt risk cutting my legs off with flex shaft... But why dont you buy a new clearing saw if you want one, it costs only about the same as chainsaw....
MikeInParadise
ArboristSite Guru
I have an Echo SRM260 u BRUSH CUTTER, not a trimmer, that was sold by Echo as a commercial duty Brush Cutter with handle bars and brush cutting guard/blade.
It is has flex shaft. I have well over 500 hours on this unit and it works ok with the blade (I like the Stihl blades) with out any shaft problems what so ever.
Pop out your shaft and see if it looks like this...
It is a little underpowered but does the job and will work day in and day out.
Link to Echo Product Page:
http://www.echo-usa.com/product.asp?Model=SRM-260U&Category=BRUSHCUTTER
Note: 4 wire cable for shaft....
You really need to have the handle bars on the trimmer in order to use as a brush cutter as the normal trimmer handle will not be great or may not even be safe with a blade.
It is has flex shaft. I have well over 500 hours on this unit and it works ok with the blade (I like the Stihl blades) with out any shaft problems what so ever.
Pop out your shaft and see if it looks like this...
It is a little underpowered but does the job and will work day in and day out.
Link to Echo Product Page:
http://www.echo-usa.com/product.asp?Model=SRM-260U&Category=BRUSHCUTTER
Note: 4 wire cable for shaft....
You really need to have the handle bars on the trimmer in order to use as a brush cutter as the normal trimmer handle will not be great or may not even be safe with a blade.
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Actually it's 43cc 2,9hp(345fxt). And mine is an E-tech.
I recommend you try a HVA handlebar if you can. It's a bit curved, more room for the legs, and not as wide.
Jred use the old HVA handlebar from 252,244etc.
/Nisse
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
The Jonsered FC 2145 is the same as Husqvarna 343F, 45cc 2,7Hp (no Cat/E-tech)
The Jonsered FC 2145 W is the same as Husqvarna 345Fxt, 43cc 2,9hp (Cat/E-tech)
The Jonsered FC 2145 S is the same as Husqvarna 345Fx, 43cc 2,9hp (Cat/E-tech)
:greenchainsaw:
Four Paws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Muffler Mod
I run a Husqvarna 232R brushcutter. I bought it primarily due to price - seemed to be the best bang for my buck. It does a fine job for me, mostly clearing thick grass and weeds. I also have a string trimmer head for it, making it quite versatile. The catalytic muffler made it run, what I felt was, EXTREMELY hot. Anyhow, I decided to ditch the cat and open the muffler up. Didn't do anything too crazy...check it out below.
Here is the stock muffler on my Husqvarna 232R Brushcutter after taking it apart. I used a 00 brazing tip on my oxy/acetylene torch to heat the seam on the muffler red-hot, and pryed up the metal with a screwdriver to separate the two halves of the muffler. The piece on the right is the catalyst part of the E-tech catalytic convertor muffler. You can also see the two small outlet holes. The factory muffler only had one, I added the second almost immediately after I got it.
Next, I cut a baffle out of 20ga sheetmetal. I used tin snips, cleaned it up with a grinder and hand files. I traced out the 3 holes of the bushings (keeps the muffler from squashing when tightened on the machine) and drilled them out. I then used a punch to mark out where I wanted to drill holes in the baffle. This new baffle I made has a LOT more surface area than the old catalyst baffle, but will still provide back pressure which the engine needs.
Finally, I assembled the muffler halves back together, making sure everything lined up and all necessary parts fit up properly. Heat it back up with the torch, crimped it with some pliers. After it cooled, I decided to enlarge the outlet hole again. After I was all finished, I wire brushed it, cleaned it off and gave it a nice coat of flat black BBQ paint. All ready to go back on the machine!
She runs nice and cool now! Even allowed for easier adjustment of the carburetor and smooth tuning.
I run a Husqvarna 232R brushcutter. I bought it primarily due to price - seemed to be the best bang for my buck. It does a fine job for me, mostly clearing thick grass and weeds. I also have a string trimmer head for it, making it quite versatile. The catalytic muffler made it run, what I felt was, EXTREMELY hot. Anyhow, I decided to ditch the cat and open the muffler up. Didn't do anything too crazy...check it out below.
Here is the stock muffler on my Husqvarna 232R Brushcutter after taking it apart. I used a 00 brazing tip on my oxy/acetylene torch to heat the seam on the muffler red-hot, and pryed up the metal with a screwdriver to separate the two halves of the muffler. The piece on the right is the catalyst part of the E-tech catalytic convertor muffler. You can also see the two small outlet holes. The factory muffler only had one, I added the second almost immediately after I got it.
Next, I cut a baffle out of 20ga sheetmetal. I used tin snips, cleaned it up with a grinder and hand files. I traced out the 3 holes of the bushings (keeps the muffler from squashing when tightened on the machine) and drilled them out. I then used a punch to mark out where I wanted to drill holes in the baffle. This new baffle I made has a LOT more surface area than the old catalyst baffle, but will still provide back pressure which the engine needs.
Finally, I assembled the muffler halves back together, making sure everything lined up and all necessary parts fit up properly. Heat it back up with the torch, crimped it with some pliers. After it cooled, I decided to enlarge the outlet hole again. After I was all finished, I wire brushed it, cleaned it off and gave it a nice coat of flat black BBQ paint. All ready to go back on the machine!
She runs nice and cool now! Even allowed for easier adjustment of the carburetor and smooth tuning.
