bookerdog
The New Champ
Looking to buy a brush cutting saw to clear some buck brush and scottsbroom. The brush is anywhere from 1 to 4 inch dia. Don't want to bend over with a chainsaw anymore. Anyone have suggestions.
Brushcutters ?
- Thread starter bookerdog
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blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get a real clearing saw... husky 254rx/345rx or stihl 450 fsk...
Yup, the consensus seems to be to buy a proper brushcutter. An Earlier Thread on Brush Cutters
Good luck finding one used, though. They seem to be a rarity on the used market.
Good luck finding one used, though. They seem to be a rarity on the used market.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yep, I wouldn't want to take on numberous 4" trees with my FS200 (FS250 in the US - larger engine, but same power rating).
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
my friend has the FS550...what a beast!
BC_Logger
ArboristSite Guru
for trees that size I would go with the husqvarna 265 rx , this thing is bullit proof
I have one and the only thing thats bad about it is the weight,
but its not too bad with the propper harness
I have one and the only thing thats bad about it is the weight,
but its not too bad with the propper harness
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
265 is overkill for that sized wood IMO, stihl 450fsk for example would be better suited...
Ed*L
ArboristSite Guru
BC_Logger
ArboristSite Guru
once you get into 4 + trees you want power and a really good angle gear
In my experiences husquvarna has the better angle gear than stihl
In my experiences husquvarna has the better angle gear than stihl
alderman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have a look at Shindaiwa
I've got an old C-35 Shindaiwa that I've been running for 20+ years. As long as the blade is sharp it will power a 9" blade through Alder and Maple. If you hit the target from several different angles you can take down a tree that is as large as the blade. Once the blade goes dull on these you end up just burning through which is hard on the machine. This type of work is hard on machinery so I would certainly spend the extra money for a good quality piece of equipment. Mine was overkill and over budget when I got it but looking back I'm sure glad I did.
I've got an old C-35 Shindaiwa that I've been running for 20+ years. As long as the blade is sharp it will power a 9" blade through Alder and Maple. If you hit the target from several different angles you can take down a tree that is as large as the blade. Once the blade goes dull on these you end up just burning through which is hard on the machine. This type of work is hard on machinery so I would certainly spend the extra money for a good quality piece of equipment. Mine was overkill and over budget when I got it but looking back I'm sure glad I did.
ScoutmasterRick
ArboristSite Operative
I have an FS 250 and it will handle a 4" tree, but that is pushing it pretty hard.
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
Yes, get a real clearing saw... JONSERED
I have a Stihl 353AV you can have. Just have to pick it up, it's supposed to run but I haven't tried it. It's old big and ugly and heavy. Looks like a chainsaw mounted on a stick.:biggrinbounce2:
Timberhauler
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a Stihl FS250..I'm not sure I would want any more power than that..It does a good job.
XJWoody
ArboristSite Guru
Paul, are you running a circular saw blade on that 250 or what sort of attachment?
We've been needing a good brush-cutter, and I've about made up my mind to get one for Fathers Day... the Stihl 350 looks good on paper, but I've been advised towards Shindaiwa (two different dealers that also sell Stihl & Husky) I don't mind spending a bit more for something that will last "forever."
For me here, anything over 2-3" needing killed is likely a poplar...and anything over that size is food for the chain-saw.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have no idea what somerset looks like, buck brush sounds like what we call buckthorn a small scrubby extremely dense thorny bush that can become tree size.
The brush cutting we encounter usually means cutting multi-stem, clumped at the bottom type woody vegatation or regrowth from stump sprouts, mixed in with grapewines, brambles and big weeds like cockleburr in other words a tangled mess to cut through not to mention aggrevatiting. A tri-cut blade is the best choice, a circular saw attachment might work good for single stem material if it doesn't get dulled out quick. Cutting low to the ground gets into alot of binding on the saw blade if your cutting multiple stems.
Any woody material 4" dia if it has any hardness to it will challenge any clearing saw. It is best to work two tools, use the clearing saw for the smaller material, chainsaw for the heavier stuff. Brush cutting is best done from the top down cutting small pieces, trying to take out material in one cut usully results in pieces that have to be cut up smaller so you have room to manuver the clearing saw or you have to stop and move the material with your hands, if the area is real dense and choked tight with brush.
The Sthil 450 and 550 with the bike handlebars are nice for just plain brute force and get the job done quickly but they are big time expensive, not to mention heavy when you have to swing them side to side and up and down, Sthil has a nice harness that goes with these saws, easier on your back compared to the shoulder straps that are sold for the lighter machines. The harness can be a pain at first to get in and out of, but after a little practice it gets easier. In additon to the gear angle, shaft length is a factor to consider also. I have an old FS 280 outfitted with one of the smaller tri-cut baldes, I prefer this over the 450,550 for lighter material because it has a slightly longer shaft and is lighter. I'm tall and this makes a difference. The 280 isn't made any more but from what I have read the 250 sounds like a similar machine in power anyway.
Hopes this helps you out, the pic is the 550 I have, it was in the shop today getting a little maintence for the upcoming season. Nice machine, well built, and very powerful with that big tri-cut blade. Might be overkill for what you need.
Larry
The brush cutting we encounter usually means cutting multi-stem, clumped at the bottom type woody vegatation or regrowth from stump sprouts, mixed in with grapewines, brambles and big weeds like cockleburr in other words a tangled mess to cut through not to mention aggrevatiting. A tri-cut blade is the best choice, a circular saw attachment might work good for single stem material if it doesn't get dulled out quick. Cutting low to the ground gets into alot of binding on the saw blade if your cutting multiple stems.
Any woody material 4" dia if it has any hardness to it will challenge any clearing saw. It is best to work two tools, use the clearing saw for the smaller material, chainsaw for the heavier stuff. Brush cutting is best done from the top down cutting small pieces, trying to take out material in one cut usully results in pieces that have to be cut up smaller so you have room to manuver the clearing saw or you have to stop and move the material with your hands, if the area is real dense and choked tight with brush.
The Sthil 450 and 550 with the bike handlebars are nice for just plain brute force and get the job done quickly but they are big time expensive, not to mention heavy when you have to swing them side to side and up and down, Sthil has a nice harness that goes with these saws, easier on your back compared to the shoulder straps that are sold for the lighter machines. The harness can be a pain at first to get in and out of, but after a little practice it gets easier. In additon to the gear angle, shaft length is a factor to consider also. I have an old FS 280 outfitted with one of the smaller tri-cut baldes, I prefer this over the 450,550 for lighter material because it has a slightly longer shaft and is lighter. I'm tall and this makes a difference. The 280 isn't made any more but from what I have read the 250 sounds like a similar machine in power anyway.
Hopes this helps you out, the pic is the 550 I have, it was in the shop today getting a little maintence for the upcoming season. Nice machine, well built, and very powerful with that big tri-cut blade. Might be overkill for what you need.
Larry
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Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been awhile since I have done this, embedding a pic at the end of a post. Can't let the Jonsered crowd be only ones showing their stuff:biggrinbounce2:
NoDipNoMore
ArboristSite Member
EFCO makes a nice brush saw, they have two pro saws. 45cc and 55cc, I bought the smaller one and it works great, they supply a really good vest harness system. Once you learn the technique, you can really make some hay.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
Ax-man, that Stihl looks mean
That would throw me around like a rag doll. I must work my eyes out to veiw it again:lifter: :lifter:
That would throw me around like a rag doll. I must work my eyes out to veiw it again:lifter: :lifter:blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
IMO, the weight isnt issue with clearing saw long as you have the comfort harness and you set it well (heck, im ~130lbs and can cut all day with clearing saw)... ofcourse, my 450 fsk is bit lighter than that 550 by my quess, specs call for 8,5kg or so... 9" blade and tri-blade is what i use for willow and they work best....
