bucking help needed

[sorethumbs]

I was wondering if you guys could give some bucking advice. It seems that most of the trees or large limbs that I need to buck are under tension. When I make my cut the tree wants to pinch the bar & chain. I get about 1/2-3/4 if the way through and can see the cut closing up. I then stop the cut and withdraw the saw so it dosn't get pinched in there solidly. Ususally I then go to the next cut and the same thing happens, over and over. I'm then left with a 1/2 bucked tree that can't be rolled over to cut from the back side, and I cant get a saw underneath it either.

What should I be doing diffrently? Thanks.

 

[Burvol]

With a hot chain you can "pop" limbs under tension just by grazing them. Let the pressure off, then start bucking. It also helps when you don't just have a 20" bar either LOL, for getting stuck. Be proactive with your saw, pull and move with the cut. Don't just dog in and let it go. You have to learn to read tension and how to saw. Bucking big saw logs is just as tricky and important as putting in a face and backing up a big tree. Can be dangerous. Stay on the side that will pinch your bar, not break your leg!

 

[outdoorlivin247]

A plastic felling wedge is your friend...

 

[clutch25]

Use a wedge placed in the cut....keeps it open.

 

[Cedarkerf]

Bore in below the pinch point cut down then back up to finish the cut if you cant get under the log.

 

[Mike PA]

I always carry a small, plastic wedge in my pocket for just this purpose. I have a wedge that I broke hammering in a tree. It is only about 3-4 inches long, so it is very handy for this purpose.

One more thing to try - lay a couple of logs out and drop the tree on the logs. Then you can get the saw under the log and there is less chance of rocking in the chain.

 

[Tree Pig]

I wedge also. If your doing a long log hard to roll make your first one or two cuts to separate the log into manageable pieces you can roll, then finish out doing a top and bottom cut. Thats assuming your cutting firewood.

 

[TreePointer]

Peavey, cant hook, timberjack

Good tips already.

I'll also add that a peavey/cant hook/timberjack can turn some big logs so you may cut on the other side. I always try to have one with me on firewood expeditions.

 

[RRSsawshop]

A plastic felling wedge is your friend...

:agree2:

 

[Tree Pig]

:agree2:

Yeah I should have pointed out PLASTIC in my reply. Dont want a metal wedge falling on your running chain when you crack that tree.

 

[iluvsaws]

i think the limbs need to go first do to the different stress points they make,just a nip of the saw will break the tension.then always start on top untill it wants to pinch then bore 2/3rds below your top cut and go in at an angleso you have most wood on the far side of you so it will pull the tree that way.then come up once you hear a break then move saw while coming up...good luck ive been cutting big hemlock for about 5 years and those limbs have got me before,no fun...be safe

 

[turnkey4099]

I find the best approach to bucking up any tree is to start at the top end and work down. That way all stresses come out a little at a time instead of one big one. Now tothe question.

Wedge is the answer plus some technique on 'up cuts' if you can get the bar under the log.

I usually will do 3 or 4 partial cuts (down until the cut starts to close) then wedge the last one and cut it through. Roll that section of log over and finish the partial cuts. On to the next section. My goal is to keep the saw away from teh dirt as much as possible. Only the cut that frees the log section may hit dirt and, if so, I baby the last little bit - just 'blip' the throttle so the chain isn't moving fast.

Be sure the log section you are freeing and the remainder of the tree isn't going to roll toward you!

Harry K

OOOPPSS! I just realized this is in the Arborist 101 forum. If you aren't cutting firewood, disregard.

Harry K

 

[sorethumbs]

thanks for all the responses, they were very helpful. I'll have a plastic wedge before the weekend, can't wait to try it.

 

[randyg]

thanks for all the responses, they were very helpful. I'll have a plastic wedge before the weekend, can't wait to try it.

I have one 6 inch wedge that fit nice in back pocket, but is a little hard to fish out with gloves on. An 8 or 10 or 12 inch is easy to grab out with gloves on, you will get good like those quick draw old western gun fighters.

Don't think you need a hammer either. Just one tap (easy one at that) with the palm of your hand will hold it in place. Watch that wedge, and if it starts slipping down the kerf is opening. Stop the saw, pluck the wedge out of the kerf and stick back in your pocket for next cut. Otherwise, wedge falls down and is hard to find/fish out or lands on moving saw chain OR BOTH.

Don't try and grab the wedge while running saw with other hand. It will work for a while, and then one time bar tip will snag a small branch or something and come flying up outta that kerf at your wedge AND FINGERS!!!!!! :censored:

 

[tree md]

I'm with turnkey, I always start cutting from the top. I'll limb the tree and then start working my way down the trunk. This usually relieves most of the tension when you buck in most cases. You might have some tension towards the big end of the trunk but the log will be more manageable and easier to roll once you get a lot of weight off from the top down. Of course no two situations are the same and you will invariably encounter situations where you have to cut under tension. If you start encountering tension cut as far as you can without the gap closing up and pinching your bar then move to the other end and do the same. If that side is under tension as well keep making cuts as far as you can and move up the log. At some point you will come to a spot where you can make a complete cut on most logs. If I can find a spot where I can get my bar under the log without getting it in the dirt I will cut through the log at that point with the back of my bar to relieve tension and roll the log. I very rarely need to use a wedge or peavy (although they are very handy). I usually have two guys bucking from both ends of the tree, either 2 groundies or myself and a groundy. We work the tree from both ends and relieve the tension for each other working this way.

 

[Brian VT]

I have one of my plastic wedges for this purpose. I drill a hole through the fat end and stuff a stick through so it doesn't fall onto the chain and get thrown 20' away.