Burned out Central Boiler outdoor Wood furnace

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Also, very important to get all of the ash out, it can be quite corrosive when it gets moist.

Everything burns out/leaks eventually.

Ashes were cleaned out regulary and stirred every day to keep them from building up moisture. The ash pan still looked like the day I bought it. The thin metal occurred about half way up the side wall way above the ash line. I realize everything burns out eventually, but not in six years. A indoor wood burner will last better then 20 years.
 
I am curious how you plan to weld the boiler since it is welded on water side only. One reason I never was impressed with their product.
 
I would imagine that as long as you are careful to get good penetration, maybe grind a bevel in advance that you could weld it fine from inside the firebox.

The trick would be keeping breathable air in the firebox while you work - I am guessing that a positive pressure respirator with a fully enclosed face mask will be necessary. Even OxyAcet should do the trick.
 
I changed the water every three years as recommended and did not notice the water being rust colored, except for right at first when I open the spigot. I do admit I did not check the ph and nitrate levels like I should, but the leaks started from the firebox and worked there way in. The dealer who tried to repair the leak at first gave me a cut out of the firebox and the water side looked almost perfect. The Company told me though that the water jacket was all pitted. Not sure, the cut out I had looked perfect on the water side.

CB water will be yellowish-colored with the inhibitor added.
 
you are referring to welding in a new piece?
I was wondering about repair not sure how that would work welding on an unwelded side trying to get a leak to stop. Been welding these for a while that would be extremely hard to find and stop IMO.
 
you are referring to welding in a new piece?
I was wondering about repair not sure how that would work welding on an unwelded side trying to get a leak to stop. Been welding these for a while that would be extremely hard to find and stop IMO.

A few bottles of Bar's Leak would stop it...:dizzy:
 
you are referring to welding in a new piece?
I was wondering about repair not sure how that would work welding on an unwelded side trying to get a leak to stop. Been welding these for a while that would be extremely hard to find and stop IMO.

What process do you use to repair the firebox?
 
What process do you use to repair the firebox?

I would seal off the 2" vent cap, with a Fernco-type pipe cap, then pressurize with 5 lb. or so air pressure, then use a soap solution in spray bottle, apply to suspect area, if possible.
 
I prefer a burn chamber welded inside and out but that is MO.

I am not sure how I would fix centrals probably try and box in the leak area and weld it the corner seem is the hardest point because you are trying to connect to an unwelded side termination.
 
When did you first notice this problem? Did you happen to notice any changes in the past years when you cleaned out your OWB for the summer?

Did you use your OWB to burn garbage during the summer? I was told to keep my fires above 140º or the inside of the fire box could collect moisture along the walls. Just asking so I maybe I can prevent the same thing from happening with mine. Thanks!!
 
I never burnt any garbage in the burner. The fheat is set between 175 and 180 which the burner was kept at. Never noticed anything because the inside of the firebox is not leaking. Its the outside of the box somewhere under the spray on insulation.
 
I always figured that spray foam worked like a sealer. Guess that is not always true. If it is on the outside you should be able to scape off the foam and weld it on site with 110 welder that metal is like 10 or 11 gauge does not take a lot of welder to weld it.
 
I never burnt any garbage in the burner. The fheat is set between 175 and 180 which the burner was kept at. Never noticed anything because the inside of the firebox is not leaking. Its the outside of the box somewhere under the spray on insulation.

Thanks for the Information.
 
Yes I probably could weld it on site but CB is just over an hour from my place so I'll take it there for warranty repair. The panels will have to come off to expose the insulation and then the insulation will have to be scraped off to find the leak. I am curious if it is weld that cracked or metal fatigue or metal rotted out. If the metal rotted then I think I will need a whole new liner. If its rotten in one place it will be rotten somewhere else.
 
When did you first notice this problem? Did you happen to notice any changes in the past years when you cleaned out your OWB for the summer?

Did you use your OWB to burn garbage during the summer? I was told to keep my fires above 140º or the inside of the fire box could collect moisture along the walls. Just asking so I maybe I can prevent the same thing from happening with mine. Thanks!!

My problem was the firebox, I first noticed it when my ashes were saturated. To be honest I did not notice a change from year to year because the inside was creosoted up. I had been told that once you have a good layer of creosote on the inside it was well protected. I did not burn trash in mine in the summer. I was told also that the corrosion could have occurred from having my water temperature set at 160 degrees in fall and spring. But then someone else said that they may only have exasperated the problem. From here on out I will set my water temperature to 185 and leave it there. And since I was told by the company that burning paper in it once could cause this sort of corrosion I will need to find a way to start it in
the Fall without using any paper or cardboard.
 
I find it hard to believe paper would cause corrosion. I think most of the corrison will come from the inside the boiler in the water jacket. On mine there is no water inside the burn chamber so I don't think what I burned would have any bearing on the problem. The problem is on the outside so another factor would have to be the problem.
 
I find it hard to believe paper would cause corrosion. I think most of the corrison will come from the inside the boiler in the water jacket. On mine there is no water inside the burn chamber so I don't think what I burned would have any bearing on the problem. The problem is on the outside so another factor would have to be the problem.

The company representatives explained to me that if you burn trash, (like paper and plastic) it mixes with the condensation that occurs inside the burn chamber and creates sulfuric and hydrocloric acid. This in turn corrodes the metal. He said there is a lot of condensation because the water is always cooler then then the inside fire box. The condensation obviously is worse when water temperatures are set too low. I am not sure why they allow a owner to run water temps at 160 F because they made it sound like that is not the right thing to do.
 
I run mine as low as 153 never seen and rust per say.

I would say it has to do with the thin metal. I would expect 11 or 12 gauge to last about 5-10 years no more.
 

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