Butterfly II Setups?

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I've had the BII for about 2 years now, and I put the caritool on it from day one. I've not had good luck with it. It had slid around a lot for me. Maybe not a LOT, but it's slid around, and considering I want it to NEVER slide around, it seems like it's a LOT. I will sew a webbing loop into the saddle to keep it in place.

Sometimes the little clip on the caritool doesn't do it's job and the fake biner will slide forwards all the way past the D ring!

I really can't understand why they didn't put a 'biner slot on that harness?

love
nick
 
NickfromWI said:
I've had the BII for about 2 years now, and I put the caritool on it from day one. I've not had good luck with it. It had slid around a lot for me. Maybe not a LOT, but it's slid around, and considering I want it to NEVER slide around, it seems like it's a LOT. I will sew a webbing loop into the saddle to keep it in place.

Sometimes the little clip on the caritool doesn't do it's job and the fake biner will slide forwards all the way past the D ring!

I really can't understand why they didn't put a 'biner slot on that harness?

love
nick

Nick, mine fits so tight I don't foresee it ever moving, Unless I tried to hang my 440 on it or something. Maybe you have got yours in a different location. There is no way mine could slide past the D ring on my saddle.
 
my b2 setup

this works 4 me. i also changed my saw lanyard fixed ring for a small non locking quick draw krab:rockn:
 
(WLL) said:
:hmm3grin2orange:

Did you ever have a problem with not getting close enough to the side of the tree with your second tie in on removals? It seems like the stock BII bridge is a little on the long side.. When I am on the spar blocking down I like my second tie in to be nice and tight. But I can't really achieve this with the long bridge.
Sometimes I will slide my running bowline more around to the side so I can get the slack out of my tie in point. Does your replacment bridge help this matter?? I thought about ordering the bridge for the small BII 9.84in verses my 11.81 in.
 
another option

maby this will help:hmm3grin2orange:
 
not a problem 4 me

JTinaTree said:
Did you ever have a problem with not getting close enough to the side of the tree with your second tie in on removals? It seems like the stock BII bridge is a little on the long side.. When I am on the spar blocking down I like my second tie in to be nice and tight. But I can't really achieve this with the long bridge.
Sometimes I will slide my running bowline more around to the side so I can get the slack out of my tie in point. Does your replacment bridge help this matter?? I thought about ordering the bridge for the small BII 9.84in verses my 11.81 in.
im always leaning back. the bigger the stick the bigger the saw the more im leaning back:rockn:
 
(WLL) said:
im always leaning back. the bigger the stick the bigger the saw the more im leaning back:rockn:

WLL , Might be getting a little of topic but what hitch do you use for your second tie in. I have used a fig8, 4wrap prussiks,and vt.. However the prusik and vt limit your emergency decent when blocking down on srt. The fig8 locked off works best for me right now till I find something better.
 
what i do

JTinaTree said:
WLL , Might be getting a little of topic but what hitch do you use for your second tie in. I have used a fig8, 4wrap prussiks,and vt.. However the prusik and vt limit your emergency decent when blocking down on srt. The fig8 locked off works best for me right now till I find something better.
i rarely tie in twice i just use my primary life line and or for safety i have my lanyard as my second connection. i use a martin hitch 4 both lanyard and life line. i never ever use srt and i dont own a 8. when im ready 2 drop a log if im in a hurry i reppel down with a munter on a krab off of the lowering line because of my set up. this allows me 2 not need 2 pull my rope through the hitch back 2 the eye. i very seldom untie my hitch unless im changing it out 4 a new 1. if i do need a 2nd tie in i use my tail with a blakes. blocking down on str that is just dangerous u should by or make a rope guide. they will allow u to tie drt on something as smooth as a flag pole. a must 4 safety!! i have used my grillion and a man on belay to run up a tree with hooks on and has good results because there is no rope near my spikes. when at the top i lanyard in and my groundie un hooks grillion and i tie in. that is simple fast and safe.:chainsaw:
 
I prefer to almost always be tied in twice when useing a chain saw in the tree. My climbing/lifeline ,and my steelcore lanyard being the second. I have thought about turning my buck friction saver into a removalble false crotch but have not done it yet.
 
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