Buying a new MS260pro: questions

[Chucker45]

I'm thinking about buying a new MS260pro. I'd be replacing an old Echo451 w/ a 22" bar. The bar on the Echo is probably a bit too long for the saw, but it always seemed to do the job.

I mostly cut small alder and maple trees (6"-10" diameter). I also sometimes buck up firewood (Douglas Fir 10"-16" diameter). I'm kind of a 'casual +' type of user, as in, I'm out cutting and bucking as needed during the summer months to keep up with the spread.

Moving from the Echo to the Stihl I'd be losing about a pound in weight, and gaining about 6cc. I also figure that the Stihl, being 20 years or so newer, should perform a whole lot better

The dealer will give me a new MS260pro with a 18" bar for $410.
He'll give me one with a 20" bar for $435, although he'd have to special order it.

First question:
How's that sound for a price in the PacNW? One dealer I spoke with said MSR was $489, and he wouldn't budge from that price so I walked down the road found the deal for $410.

It occurs to me that the guy might have been wrong about the bar lenght, maybe it was a 16"? If so how's the $410 price?

Second question:
Bar size, I'm torn between an 18" and the 20". For the prices that I was quoted would the 20" make more sense? (have more value) After being used to a 22" bar I'm just a bit hesitant about moving down to an 18" one. Any thoughts on that?

Third question:
I saw a thread on this site that mentioned another thread on this site (confused yet?). In the first thread someone mentioned that there was a thread that outlined 'proper break-in procedures' for a Stihl. I searched for that thread but couldn't find it... can any one else find it? If not, any break in tips?

That's all I can think of for now. Any thoughts, input, ideas, etc would be much appreciated.

 

[musch]

Pretty good price, I think.
It seems that the Stihl dealers are not as flexible on price, because they don't have to be. If you want a Stihl, you have to go to the dealer.
If you want a HUSKY, there are any number of places you can order one, online, etc.
The upside to the Stihl dealer, is hopefully, they will stand by the product, and service it as needed. The one here is great, but from what I have been reading, they vary across the country,
I got a MS 260 recently, (not a pro) and its a really nice smooth cutting saw.
It has more than enough power, but I am only pulling a 16" bar.
Hope that helps.

 

[Brushwacker]

I believe it was a year ago they were selling for $469 or so here. I am running an 026 pro with an 20" bar and 3/8 p. chain and it does very well powerwise and the total saw length fits my 6 foot build comfortably.It seems just a tad heavy on the dampeners but not bad. You might get it with what feels the most comfortable to you and you could buy the other size for a spare and to try out. Aftermarket bar and chain from bailys or ? would keep your experimental bar chain price down. If I am out with 1 saw I like an extra bar in case I should get pinched anyway. Your owners manual will have breakin procedures etc. The 260 should be improved over mine and I would trust it to last many years with proper care.

 

[JPP]

Very good price, I paid $479 for my 260 Pro with 16" bar back in March here in western NY.
I love mine, it is a great cutting saw and very comfortable to use.

 

[computeruser]

The dealer will give me a new MS260pro with a 18" bar for $410.
He'll give me one with a 20" bar for $435, although he'd have to special order it.

Why would he have to "special order" a 20" bar? Price aside, I'd be reluctant to do business with a saw shop that doesn't have spare bars hanging around, as they are a pretty standard replacement part to have available for customers to walk in and buy.

Either price you cite seems good to me. Around here the 260 is best as a 16" saw, but on your side of the country I suspect that the softwoods more readily permit more bar on less saw. Presented with the choice between 18" and 20", I'd probably go with .325/20". 20" is a versatile bar size and the 260 should be able to handle it well in softwoods.

As for break in, run the saw as you normally would. Don't abuse it, don't run it WOT when you're not actually cutting, make sure you're running a proper fuel/oil mix, etc. It is your choice if you want to run 50:1 mix or something else, that's a popular point of discussion around here. I've been happy with 40:1 with semi- or fully-synthetic oil, but lots of folks run 50:1 with regular oil without any problems. The only thing to do during break-in is to keep an eye (or, more accurately, an ear) out to make sure the saw is properly tuned. As you run it some and break it in it will loosen up and rev more freely, which may require carb adjustments to keep the saw from running leaner than it should. Most dealers around here ask their customers to bring their new saws back after four or five tanks to have the saw adjusted. If you're OK tuning the saw yourself then you won't have to take it anywhere, but you'll still want to make sure it stays properly tuned as it loosens up.

 

[KMB]

As far as bar size goes, I bought mine (non-pro 260) with a 20" bar/.325 chain and it worked for me. Then I bought a bigger saw with a 20" bar and put a 16"/.325 chain bar on the 260. A world of difference. To me it seems that the 260's power is best used on the 16". Other's here will have a better way of explaining the reasoning for the shorter bar. It will pull the 20" bar, but slower, especially in bigger wood. For a one saw person, I'd go with a 18" bar/.325 chain on the 260. For bigger wood, just cut from both sides if needed. I guess I should add that I modded the muffler (for a little more power and to breathe easier), and swapped the carb for a fully adjustable one on my 260. Also, I'm cutting hardwoods and someone who uses a 260 in softwoods will probably tell you different.

Kevin

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

It seems to me if you want to run a 20'' bar, you're spending over $400, and you want something of newer design (the 026 is at least 20 years old), the Stihl 361 would be the obvious choice.
I only mention it because I hate the 026. It's motor mounts are way to soft to handle 3/8's chain and a 20'' bar is a disaster on it. The saw might as well not have any motor mounts with the vibration it has.
Some guys like them (mostly guys that never ran better saws, I think), and they do last a good long time (I don't know if that's a good thing or bad). I do know you'll be a lot happier with the 361.

 

[infomet]

026 Bar

Long bars may be macho, but they don't make the saw work better.

It sounds like you could do fine with a 16"??

 

[Cut4fun]

5100s

Why not get the best saw in that class for less money $369 online. Dolmar 5100S, instead of a old outdated design like the 260. Just trying to show options of choice. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Dolmar_PS5100S_18_p/dolmar ps5100s 18 chainsaw.htm

 

[manual]

Why not get the best saw in that class for less money $369 online. Dolmar 5100S, instead of a old outdated design like the 260. Just trying to show options of choice. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Dolmar_PS5100S_18_p/dolmar ps5100s 18 chainsaw.htm

Why, you ask Why.
No offense Chucker 45 and by the way welcome to the site.
People are programed to think that they are getting the best saw when they buy a Sthil.
cut4fun is right the Dolmar 5100s is the most advanced saw in its class.
The 260 is out dated.

 

[Lakeside53]

hhhm,I detect this thread is going the way of prior threads on the same topic - Sports car verses Sedan...


Don't let anyone talk you out of 260 if that's what you want. There a reason it's been around almost unmodified for 18 years, and most will still be running in a another 18 years.. The price you got quoted isvery good. The dealer isn't making much on your sale...


20 inch bar? Most of the 026's out here (zillions of them) are set up with 20 inch bars, and 3/8. It's all softwoods, but some aren't so soft. Most wantt e lengt for reach, such as limbing on the ground. Would I reach for the 026 to cut 20 inch wood - no... I'd pick up my 361. 16-18 inch on an 026 is a real nice saw.


Put a tab on your calender for 2024. Let's see what saws are still running and able to get parts for Wait, If I'm till posting in 2024, take me out back and put me out of my misery!

 

[Just Mow]

Lake, you are correct. The reason it has not changed is because you dont mess with something that doesn't need to be messed with.

Great price, they sell here for close to 500. And you will have this saw for many years to come.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I find it hard to believe that somebody with easy access to both a 361 and a 260 would ever pick up the 260. The 361 is so close in weight so much stronger, so much nicer to start and run, I just can't see wanting to use the 260.

 

[manual]

hhhm,I detect this thread is going the way of prior threads on the same topic - Sports car verses Sedan...

Put a tab on your calender for 2024. Let's see what saws are still running and able to get parts for Wait, If I'm till posting in 2024, take me out back and put me out of my misery!

Thats an good Idea. but hows he going to change the pages if his hands are shaking too much from that old school saw.

 

[Lakeside53]

I find it hard to believe that somebody with easy access to both a 361 and a 260 would ever pick up the 260. The 361 is so close in weight so much stronger, so much nicer to start and run, I just can't see wanting to use the 260.

Yep... That's the only reason I sold my premo powder puff 260-pro... It wasn't getting the use after the 361, and someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse...

 

[Lakeside53]

Thats an good Idea. but hows he going to change the pages if his hands are shaking too much from that old school saw.

The reason hands will be shaking in 2024 is old age, and by "calendar, I mean "computer" - no pages to change, just voice input.. Hmmm, what if the voice is shaking also...

 

[manual]

The reason hands will be shaking in 2024 is old age, and by "calendar, I mean "computer" - no pages to change, just voice input.. Hmmm, what if the voice is shaking also...

Viagra............:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[SawTroll]

...
Second question:
Bar size, I'm torn between an 18" and the 20". For the prices that I was quoted would the 20" make more sense? (have more value) After being used to a 22" bar I'm just a bit hesitant about moving down to an 18" one. Any thoughts on that?
....

If you plan to do full bar cuts with 18 or 20" bars, I think you should seriously consider a larger powerhead, like the MS361.

50cc saws are at their best with 15-16" bars.

 

[manual]

I know a guy that uses a low profile .325 bar and chain 16" setup on a husky 346xp and that saws acts like the wood is butter. the logger flew through the limbing process of a felled tree.

 

[timberrat]

stihl 260 pro

if it is used for wood this is a ok saw
if it is used for hardwood go to a bigger saw
ms 260 pro with the 20" bar is ok for most jobs i run my saw with a 20" bar
the 260 pro is better suited for soft wood smaller than 16 ibd