So, is it wrong to do, then? What's the downside? Asking for a friend..
..So much to learn, so little time....
Rich
Need advice on picking out a bigger chain saw...
- Thread starter Stubby
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
..So much to learn, so little time....
Rich
Possibly I should put it this way. New saws (engines in general really) rings arnt seated for several tanks of fuel, meaning they don't quite fit right and need to wear in to get that perfect fit between ring and cylinder wall. As a side effect, compression isn't as high as it should be. Now you're using a compression release in a engine that already isn't making optimal compression. So, at minimum till it's broken in, just start it without the compression release using a good technique and it will (should) fire off very quickly.
As an observation/general practice, I just don't see the need for smaller saws to have a compression release, especially stock unmodified saws. Good starting technique/habbits and a strong deliberate pull gives good results with quick starts.
As an observation/general practice, I just don't see the need for smaller saws to have a compression release, especially stock unmodified saws. Good starting technique/habbits and a strong deliberate pull gives good results with quick starts.
About remote chain sharpening...at our site in the woods, I mount a small vise to a stump to clamp the bar in. I bought a couple of these files for my different chain sizes...
https://www.amazon.com/Stihl-2in1-Chainsaw-Chain-Sharpener/dp/B010JJNOUE/ref=sxts_b2b_sx_fused_v3_desktop_ref-tab-0?content-id=amzn1.sym.a949ec2f-983d-439e-ae6a-4028e2c2d8cc:amzn1.sym.a949ec2f-983d-439e-ae6a-4028e2c2d8cc&crid=26T0O9KV0U9UJ&cv_ct_cx=stihl+chainsaw+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Mr8dJ47vEDHUxm3KS3ognojMqWPcOBo30TH9RbCRwJvpRPNpsxkPrIIKUbl1yR2CudgxCxyIjxrKldyM-JIYqTS1O_0pM-xhR3cDkJtWC2I.B8oJRwodCaCvvVMMTQep7SzXuDDEjAuVu76Tbw_fmGQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=stihl+chainsaw+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B010JJNOUE&pd_rd_r=cd2d2562-fa09-4fda-b9c1-f08b1b193893&pd_rd_w=bTcBO&pd_rd_wg=4gyG1&pf_rd_p=a949ec2f-983d-439e-ae6a-4028e2c2d8cc&pf_rd_r=GF9KXZP6H91XHFEFPRD8&qid=1722870934&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=stihl,aps,99&sr=1-3-c3caa9c6-537b-4b39-bbc5-5db9f871bef5&th=1
Because this file also hits the rakers, do I need to buy a depth gauge? I've read that, depending on the hardness of the wood being cut, the raker height can vary. Do I want to be that critical?
How will I know when to replace the files in the holder?
Thanks in advance. I never realized how in-depth that tree cutting can be, or how much attention the chainsaw should receive to keep it in good running condition. I just glanced through the manuals when I bought the saws, but I actually read through them recently. Wow! Lots to consider!
https://www.amazon.com/Stihl-2in1-Chainsaw-Chain-Sharpener/dp/B010JJNOUE/ref=sxts_b2b_sx_fused_v3_desktop_ref-tab-0?content-id=amzn1.sym.a949ec2f-983d-439e-ae6a-4028e2c2d8cc:amzn1.sym.a949ec2f-983d-439e-ae6a-4028e2c2d8cc&crid=26T0O9KV0U9UJ&cv_ct_cx=stihl+chainsaw+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Mr8dJ47vEDHUxm3KS3ognojMqWPcOBo30TH9RbCRwJvpRPNpsxkPrIIKUbl1yR2CudgxCxyIjxrKldyM-JIYqTS1O_0pM-xhR3cDkJtWC2I.B8oJRwodCaCvvVMMTQep7SzXuDDEjAuVu76Tbw_fmGQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=stihl+chainsaw+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B010JJNOUE&pd_rd_r=cd2d2562-fa09-4fda-b9c1-f08b1b193893&pd_rd_w=bTcBO&pd_rd_wg=4gyG1&pf_rd_p=a949ec2f-983d-439e-ae6a-4028e2c2d8cc&pf_rd_r=GF9KXZP6H91XHFEFPRD8&qid=1722870934&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=stihl,aps,99&sr=1-3-c3caa9c6-537b-4b39-bbc5-5db9f871bef5&th=1
Because this file also hits the rakers, do I need to buy a depth gauge? I've read that, depending on the hardness of the wood being cut, the raker height can vary. Do I want to be that critical?
How will I know when to replace the files in the holder?
Thanks in advance. I never realized how in-depth that tree cutting can be, or how much attention the chainsaw should receive to keep it in good running condition. I just glanced through the manuals when I bought the saws, but I actually read through them recently. Wow! Lots to consider!
solserenade
ArboristSite Lurker
I think the 2-in-1 file holders work great. During use, or between uses, stop and give the file a twist so they get worn more evenly. If the file is really tight in the holder it may be necessary to open the end where the files are inserted.
There’s no substitute for logging hours of use and experience - for instance, you should develop a sense (from feel and sound) of when a file is worn out and not cutting. Also some teeth are harder than others - some files are softer. Pferd and Vallorbe work well for me. (Files)
Depth-gauge height is important, but I think the 2-in-1 gets you close enough, especially for newer chainsaw users. Eventually, look into a separate depth gauge - I like the type Westcoast Saws sells - and this Husky is similar:https://www.google.com/search?q=Hus...auge&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
(They have to match your chain type)
There’s no substitute for logging hours of use and experience - for instance, you should develop a sense (from feel and sound) of when a file is worn out and not cutting. Also some teeth are harder than others - some files are softer. Pferd and Vallorbe work well for me. (Files)
Depth-gauge height is important, but I think the 2-in-1 gets you close enough, especially for newer chainsaw users. Eventually, look into a separate depth gauge - I like the type Westcoast Saws sells - and this Husky is similar:https://www.google.com/search?q=Hus...auge&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
(They have to match your chain type)
I've used one like the Stihl for a number of years. Does ok for me
Thanks for that...good tip on rotating the file in the holder. Common sense on changing out the files, I guess...when they're just gliding over the teeth vs. biting in and removing metal...
Rich
I don't use the Stihl model of this. Mine has arrows for which direction to put the flat file and "right" or "left" for the teeth so when you flip the file you know what direction. Does the Stihl have that?
I appreciate dummy proof gear.
Unless someone like me gets ahold of it.
That's kinda why I chose that one, too..Unless someone like me gets ahold of it.
...Rich
teeth and depth gauges are set depending on what you're cutting. The depth gauge doesn't need filed for every touch up, or every other touch up or even the third in most circumstances. It's not hard to hand file, it just takes some practice and patience. Those little 2 in 1 jobs don't give you control of any of that, and are dependant on the chain being sharpened correctly from the get go.(no, I don't like most chains out of the box, it's a grind of compromise) It's a nice gadget, but in practice it's not helping anyone to get more proficient at sharpening chains, let alone being able to tailor the chain to the work.
So, for a guy like myself, to be able to sharpen chains the way that you would, first of all, is it really necessary for a homeowner type of wood cutter?
And, then I'd have to learn all the parameters to be able to do so. I don't know if I'm that ambitious.
Worst case scenario..if I continue to use the 2-in-1 file, is the downside that it takes me longer to cut softwoods?
Lastly, if the rakers can be a little "taller" for soft wood cutting, but you have a chain on your saw that you last cut hardwood with, do you change the chain?
Just trying to sort things out...
Rich
first off, they are depth gauges, not rakers.
Yes, I believe it is an essential skill to have. I'm always trying to improve my hand file skills, try different angles, depth gauge heights depending on what I'm cutting, frozen, dry, wet, soft or hard wood. That 2 in 1 will make a chain cut, and that's good enough for some guys, you may be one of them. That's fine, but it's not difficult to hand file, more so muscle memory and keeping your angles consistent (which you'll have the same issue with the 2 in 1) just gives you the freedom to set the depth gauge where you want it and not remove material from the depth gauge that doesn't need to be removed.
Generally I'll stick around .020-.025" for hardwood on the depth gauge, the 90+ cc saw running shorter bars I'll go .030" if I'm feeling froggy. .035-.045" for softwoods and softer hardwoods.
Yes, I do have a few chains for my most used saws for different tasks. I'm predominantly hardwood, so I have a chain or two with depth gauges dropped and filed a bit different then my normal chains for soft wood. More aggressive all around. More hook, lower depth gauge, try to stick with a higher top plate angle. Really I like square ground the vest, but I'm only meh ok at sharpening it by hand, and I'm not rich enough to afford a square grinder.... yet.
Hm, that gizmo might be good for my early 288...no decomp, nearly 200# comp...hmm...
I applaud your desire for honing your skills...I was the same way in my trade. And for having the patience to do so.
I have a feeling that you will earn that square grinder eventually...
Rich
If you use that 2in1 file, no, you never have to hit the rakers (yes I know they are depth gauges
). That said, throughout the life of the chain, you really don't need to drop the rakers very many times. I don't use a 2n1 file system because I adjust my rakers based on what saw I'm using, and what I'm doing with that saw. On a smaller saw that I mainly use for limbing, I keep things close to stock. On bigger saws where I'm running a shorter than average bar, I'll drop the rakers more to make more use of the saws extra HP/torque.As far as vices go, the bench vice in my shop is mounted to a piece of 8" x 8" x 3/8" aluminum, which is then bolted to the bench with 1/2" bolts (a scrench fits a 1/2" hex bolt head perfectly). At one point I had transferred the bolt pattern to another piece of steel that I bolted to the tailgate on my truck. That would allow me to quickly pull the vice off my work bench, and toss it in the truck so I could then bolt it to the tailgate and use it in the woods. It actually worked pretty well. Currently I use a cheap Harbor Freight woodworking vise that's mounted to a piece of angle iron, which is in turn welded to some scrap 2" sq tube so that I can put it in my hitch. I also have a hitch welded to the tongue of my trailer so I can use it without unhooking the trailer. I even welded a couple extra nuts to it so that I could screw in a couple of bolts and tighten everything up so it doesn't wobble. I made some wooden jaws for the vice out of some scrap lumber, and put another piece underneath. It allows me to tighten down on the bar without tightening down on the chain, and keeps me from banging the freshly sharpened saw teeth on the metal vise. I also made an extension piece so that I could use it with the tailgate down. It's way over kill, but it does work really well for sharpening a saw. The pics below aren't very good, but you get the general idea.
There is sort of a 590 fan club around here. I think you will be happy with it. Personally, I only feed it pump gas when I am going to be using it a lot. The rest of the time it gets canned premixed fuel. Maybe you got a bad can, who knows. Remember that if you break any parts you can use the parts for the CS620p. They usually cost about the same as the 590 parts but you get some nice upgrades.
This is spot on. The only thing I will add is that if you pull the choke out then push it back in you are now in fast idle until you touch the trigger. I rarely use the decomp but I usually forget it's even there. These saws don't have very high compression anyway.
Thanks for the info about the CS620P parts. I used the saw quite a bit yesterday (first time ) and cut down 4 beech trees. I likes it's power over the MS250, but the MS250 still has it's place..
Rich
If you use that 2in1 file, no, you never have to hit the rakers (yes I know they are depth gauges
As far as vices go, the bench vice in my shop is mounted to a piece of 8" x 8" x 3/8" aluminum, which is then bolted to the bench with 1/2" bolts (a scrench fits a 1/2" hex bolt head perfectly). At one point I had transferred the bolt pattern to another piece of steel that I bolted to the tailgate on my truck. That would allow me to quickly pull the vice off my work bench, and toss it in the truck so I could then bolt it to the tailgate and use it in the woods. It actually worked pretty well. Currently I use a cheap Harbor Freight woodworking vise that's mounted to a piece of angle iron, which is in turn welded to some scrap 2" sq tube so that I can put it in my hitch. I also have a hitch welded to the tongue of my trailer so I can use it without unhooking the trailer. I even welded a couple extra nuts to it so that I could screw in a couple of bolts and tighten everything up so it doesn't wobble. I made some wooden jaws for the vice out of some scrap lumber, and put another piece underneath. It allows me to tighten down on the bar without tightening down on the chain, and keeps me from banging the freshly sharpened saw teeth on the metal vise. I also made an extension piece so that I could use it with the tailgate down. It's way over kill, but it does work really well for sharpening a saw. The pics below aren't very good, but you get the general idea.
View attachment 1195565View attachment 1195566View attachment 1195567
Got all your bases covered..nice! I also made a receiver hitch vise setup...
You guys really bring this saw/chain preparation to a whole new level! ( I get it...it's what you do!).
Rich
