Buying a Wood Splitter?

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It's not just the hubs and wheels that would keep me from towing a splitter any distance or speed on the road. It's the lack of suspension, the lack of tongue length, the lack of appropriate wheel/hitch weight, and absolutely beating the crap out of the whole thing. You're basically putting the whole machine in a paint shaker when you tow it. Any line in the concrete, any crack, any rock, any pebble, all of that gets transmitted directly to the entire structure.

"Likes" on a forum aren't the be-all end-all of authority, but look how many likes the posts saying don't tow on the road are getting, vs. the posts saying go ahead, it'll be fine. Lot of people here, with a lot of wide and varied experiences, and they're saying something.
 
It's not just the hubs and wheels that would keep me from towing a splitter any distance or speed on the road. It's the lack of suspension, the lack of tongue length, the lack of appropriate wheel/hitch weight, and absolutely beating the crap out of the whole thing. You're basically putting the whole machine in a paint shaker when you tow it. Any line in the concrete, any crack, any rock, any pebble, all of that gets transmitted directly to the entire structure.

"Likes" on a forum aren't the be-all end-all of authority, but look how many likes the posts saying don't tow on the road are getting, vs. the posts saying go ahead, it'll be fine. Lot of people here, with a lot of wide and varied experiences, and they're saying something.
"... Any line in the concrete, any crack, any rock, any pebble, all of that gets transmitted directly to the entire structure...."
Agreed! But, a base model box store unit (of which some are better quality) gets someone into the game- and its legal in most areas.
 
Hand a generic person an axe or maul and they'll swing it from the ground up.

But, eventually, some people learn.

Yep I basically measure out the distance with my body and they axe, lift it straight up into the air and just let the weight of it bring it down onto the wood. When I deal with some larger pieces I might pull down on it a little. Makes a substantial difference in every way.
 
I have a Champion and I like it. The typical free 2 year warranty backed by HD is a plus.
I like it because it's not screaming loud and the steel/welds seemed better. The spool and sight glass was replaced under warranty- the company was very easy to deal with.
I haven't had a minutes problem with the engine. Starts first pull. I am told the air Filter cover may leak storm water into the carb if left uncovered.
The only thing I worry about with this champion is how exposed some of the hoses are on the side opposite the engine. Kind of wonder if a heavy piece of wood fell on it what could happen. I put a piece of plywood over that area to protect it while splitting
 
The only thing I worry about with this champion is how exposed some of the hoses are on the side opposite the engine. Kind of wonder if a heavy piece of wood fell on it what could happen. I put a piece of plywood over that area to protect it while splitting

So a couple of you guys have the Champion and seem to like it. Any chance you guys have gotten the Swisher 4-Way Wedge to work with it or any other wedges for that matter?
 
So a couple of you guys have the Champion and seem to like it. Any chance you guys have gotten the Swisher 4-Way Wedge to work with it or any other wedges for that matter?
I have not tried. You may be limited to width due to the wedge strippers. I've used mine to test it for integrity/warranty. Mine was originally purchased for a mod-project which has since stalled. I have to say it makes a great saw buck to keep smaller trees at a comfortable work height.
 

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I realize now you were talking about a splitter similar to that of the RuggedMade. I like the fact it has a Vanguard. I remember being told back in 2015 that the first real Vanguard engine was the one I had on my machine. That is the 26HP 810cc. I think when I recently talked to me dealer he told me they are putting the Vanguard stickers on everything. That looks like a pretty sizeable engine though. It definitely looks to be a step up from the 22-ton RuggedMade.

I have been looking at the Champions for awhile too. Now to clarify you are saying that you wouldn't hesitate to tow the actual splitter, with no trailer behind your vehicle?
I bought a champion 27 ton recently barely used and not being a very smart guy I towed it on the freeway for 35 miles at about 55 mph. I got lucky I guess and not aware of any harm that came to the machine
 
I purchased a YardMax 28 ton half beam splitter online a couple years ago for (it was going for $1099 plus tax). Price is now $1499. I lucked out as I actually ordered the 25T which and paid $999 for, but they sent me the wrong one. Before the delivery driver offloaded, I called the company and told them it was the wrong model. They said I could keep it for what I paid. They also included a tray, which I didn’t order either.

I would recommend the half beam model as it’s lighter than the full beam but has all the same specs otherwise.

I’ve been very happy with this machine.
 
I've heard, and seen one youtube video where a new splitter had no grease in the bearings and/or the wheels fell off. There are all kinds of horror storys with store-boughts. I brought my Champion home on a trailer, then made sure there was grease in the wheels. I wouldn't hesitate to take my Champion an hour down the road behind the truck or the car.
You can't always depend on the manufacturer to build anything right. I have a 45hp Kioti tractor that I noticed the tie rods were getting loose. They are no grease fittings on them. I removed them, popped off the rubber boots and found that there was never any grease in them at all. I drilled and tapped the back ends and installed grease fittings on them.
 
Compression?
If you're at least a little handy, worse comes to worst, predator motors are cheap.

I have never swapped one out before but seen people do it. The worst I saw a guy have to do is take off the coupler/adapter from the crankshaft and drill new bolt holes for the Predator engine. I mean I am not a genius or anything but with a little aid from the internet I should be able to figure that out in my sleep. In case you cannot see it is a Performance Built splitter and it looks like it is in excellent condition. I may even be able to negotiate it down a little more.
 
I have never swapped one out before but seen people do it. The worst I saw a guy have to do is take off the coupler/adapter from the crankshaft and drill new bolt holes for the Predator engine. I mean I am not a genius or anything but with a little aid from the internet I should be able to figure that out in my sleep. In case you cannot see it is a Performance Built splitter and it looks like it is in excellent condition. I may even be able to negotiate it down a little more.
I love my PREDATOR, insert deep sounding predatorial snarling here....
 

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27 top at Home Depot is $1500.00 today.
I can still split oak at 61 with a good ax, but I would not want to do a whole tree in a day.
Did you buy one?
I see purchasing and owning a splitter this way. I split when I want and don't when I don't. I like not rushing off to the rental and picking up/dropping off to save the extra charge. Frankly, sometimes I feel like splitting and decide I'm not into it, and pack up, if I was renting I would have to continue even though I don't want to.
 
super spliter thats all
I love it. I would love to see a video of your operation. The supersplit is efficient due to the flywheel, but as all pushthrough designs one has to wrestle the larger pieces back to the staging area.
And, my concern is how it handles the larger ones.
 
So I mean, can you trust stuff like this? It says clogged fuel line. So as long as the flywheel turns that means it is not locked up right? So if it is not the fuel line then it is the carburetor? If it were you guys, would you take a closer look at this? This is local to me too.

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Ask him if you can dump a bit of gas in the carb or give it a puff of starting fluid and get it to fire. If he won't go for it, I'd let it go.
 

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