Buying New Saw?

[McCullough]

Our family has always used McCullough as we were pleased with long term peformance of my Dad's 1964 250. Later we purchased a Eager Beaver 20" and a 16" Mac 3516 which we were also generally pleased. The Eager Beaver and Mac 3516 were both saws manufactured by McCullough prior to their bankruptcy. Following bankruptcy the spare parts from McCullough were purchased mainly by two individual companies and the McCullough brand disappeared from store shelves for a while. However the brand was eventually sold to a Taiwan based business.

I recently purchased one of the newer Taiwan saws, a 18" MS1839AV 39cc from hardware store chain, and although I was pleased with some of the newer design characteristics such as the fuel and bar chain refills being on the same side, the saw was horrible to use. I got a bad feeling when I first started the saw because although it has an advertised engine size above my Dad's older Eager Beaver I could tell right away that it sounded undersize based on the shear lack of loudless of engine. After making several adjustments as required for a new chain I finally just gave up trying to cut a 18" walnut log into 5 segments. This was a factory preassembled new model, not a factory remanufactured unit. Read the instruction manual religiously and even pre-oiled the entire chain. Within minutes the brand new saw was acting like my 10+ year old Mac3516 in that it would not turn the chain when your cut went beyond 1/2 " or deeper into the log. I am curious as to what would cause this to happen on a new saw? In any case its going back to the store; however sadly I am now questioning ever buying another McCullough?

I have been looking at some other saw brands. I've seen on some web sites that say Stihl tends to be a little over engineered as compared to Husqvarna and that a Stihl may require more maintainance. One thing I don't like about the Husqvarna models in stores is the perception of the type of plastic they use - its seems to made of a very hard and brittle type of plactic whereas I prefer to use models with dense molded plastic which has some give to it. I've also noticed Husqvarna is very expensive and am really uncertain if I am just paying the extra money for the currently most popular brand name as opposed to quality. It would seem brand names tend to go in cylces around here - first every store has this brand, then they switch to another. For while here everyone had Stihl, but now its Husqvarna.

 

[Lawn Masters]

IF the MAC has been good to you, get some of the older models, like another couple of them Eager Beavers, which are basically a PM610. IF you need help finding some of the older ones, let me know. oh, btw, some here will say that the older macs are junk, ignore them, if you hear the NEW mac saws are junk, thats pretty much right. the older macs are built like tanks, and weigh about as much.

 

[Patrick62]

Sounds to me like the clutch is not hooking up right. Covered with oil??
Stihl's are good, Husky's are good, Jonsered's are good, Echo's are good as well.
I really do not believe you can manufacture and sell a decent saw for much less than $200. You get what you pay for? Granted a $800 saw isn't gonna slice that 18' and better (maybe faster...) than a $250 saw, but is there reason to believe that a $99 Mal*Wart will?????

-Pat

Echo cs3400
Jonsered 2145
Stihl ms460
Remington Arms BEAST

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

A saw bogging in a cut like that can be attributed to alot of things. And we'd actually need a bit more info to be able to give you an accurate assessment. Is the saw dieing in the cut? Are it's rpm's dropping as the chain stops, or are they staying high or actually increasing as the chain stops?

As far as the other brands, I don't think you'll find many on here claiming that Husqvarnas cost more than Stihls for comparable models. Remember that you may be comparing a Husky 385 to a Stihl MS 250. Not comparable. In fact, price is many's main complaint about Stihl. As far as engineering, I think you'll also find alot of guys think Stihl easier to work on, and maintenance is maintenance. All of 'em need it. As far as Husky's plastic, well that's a feel thing. It's been discussed before, about how they may "feel" cheaper in your hand, but the plastic used nowadays is very much up to the task.

You really do get what you pay for. And like has been mentioned, you don't need to buy an $800 saw, but when you go to a box store and buy a saw made in Taiwan or China from clerk that doesn't know the difference between bar oil and fuel mix...well you've just seen what happens. Buy the best saw you can afford (whatever that may be) and don't look back.

Jeff

 

[West Texas]

Not many saws are gonna rip through an 18" walnut log, let alone a small hardware store saw. I think it will take a 59cc saw like a Stihl 036, 360, or their new 361 with a 20" bar to rip through piece of hard wood that size. I think you are expecting too much from too little. If you can take it back, I would; and, buy a bigger saw if thats the size and type wood you are going to be cutting.

Tom

 

[McCullough]

Well looks like I am stuck with the McCullough 18" MS1839AV 39cc. The local Menards lumber yard has a 30 day return for gas powered items. LOL - it sat new in the box for all that that time then I took it out to attempt to cut a walnut log into 5 sections just a couple days ago. Only got half way through each of the five cuts and it started to bog out to the point it was no longer useful (Dad's Eager Beaver cut it like slightly harderned butter). Yep, looks like it has oil on the clutch / shoes. However, I think there may be something mechanical wrong with the clutch or starter, probably by the way they designed it, as it has a jerky motion when you pull the cord. Hmm... on my previous Mac3516 the used two forward nuts and two rear screws to hold the panel covering the clutch; however, they have reduced this to one large nut and one screw in combination with plastic pin(s), probably to reduce the cost of the thing by reducing the number of parts. Thought this might be an advantage as you have less parts to deal with; however, I feel that adjusting and bar and chain are now more difficult as you almost need 3 hands now. Anyway it has 12 month warranty so into the shop as many times as needed. I am guessing McCullough will probably take a bit hit on this one as my local repair shop does a good job, but they charge an arm an a leg. Maybe I will get lucky and they will offer a generious trade-in on a new Stihl, which they recently added to the front of their store.

 

[2Coilinveins]

The pullcord should be jerky as it is pulled, that's the piston coming up on the compression stroke and offering resistance to your pull.

Was the log you were cutting on the ground? Was the saw nearly on the ground, sitting in a pile of chips/sawdust it had created? Were those chips blocking the exit of more chips, jamming the clutch?

 

[Butch(OH)]

I have an MS1838av that I bought new on Ebay for $50 (rationalizinging buying the saw) It would not run and was way too quiet just like yours. The muffler was choked down so bad it couldn't run. I removed it and opened up the exit holes, pitched the baffle and did some drilling in side to allow the exhaust to pass through. The saw now runs OK for a dime store outfit and has good power. Sounds like your is in the same boat mine was, how can they put out stuff that absolutly cannot run?? if you need some help with the muffler mods I can take some pics and post them here.

 

[McCullough]

"The pullcord should be jerky as it is pulled, that's the piston coming up on the compression stroke and offering resistance to your pull."

This is more on the lines of a slight clank-clank sound when the cord is pulled, which I feel is offering a more than normal resistance for this size of saw. They've also placed the pull cord at a slightly odd angle whereas most machines have the handle facing back toward the back main handle this one is placed facing the top of saw which makes it a little awkward to pull with your right hand.

"Was the log you were cutting on the ground? Was the saw nearly on the ground, sitting in a pile of chips/sawdust it had created? Were those chips blocking the exit of more chips, jamming the clutch?"

On ground. No pile of chips or sawdust just grass. Was getting oil to the bar. Didn't touch ground with bar and no dirt on log (chipped off bark and wire brushed dirt down to bare wood on a couple spots so wouldn't ruin chain). Adjusted chain several times at it was a new factory installed chain. Started bogging down and simply would not cut. The so called new chain appears to be already partially dull. I starting to question if its actually a 39cc and not just their 36cc model with a different label and I seem torecall they use that same motor for both the 14 and 16 inch. If my little 16 inch Mac3516 was still working with a new chain I would have not had a problem cutting it, though of course it would have been much slower than my Dad's Eager Beaver 20".

"I have an MS1838av"

Mine is labeled MS1839AV and claims to be 39cc, which makes me wonder if my model was some short term freak they came out with as its no longer listed on the manufacturer's web site and most of the hits I find on Google are for the 1838av instead. This item is sold through Menards - a midwest chain of lumber yards.

 

[2Coilinveins]

Sounds like you've got my ideas covered. I didn't mean to imply you were ignorant or sub intelligent, if that's how my post came across. Some people talk real smart but miss the most obvious things.

 

[McCullough]

The McCulloch MS1839Av saw is a nightmare!

After the previous trouble last year I took it to a local authorized repairer. They said there was nothing wrong with the saw and simply said it was not cutting very well because of the low kickback chain on it. It came new with one of those worhless chains which have two spacers between each tooth. I figured the chain might be the problem, but wanted to take it in because of the difficultly with the pull cord (it made a clanking sound and sometimes would catch with enough force to cause my hand to loose its grip on the pull handle). So nothing actually covered by the warranty was broken so that means I pay.

They suggested replacing the chain which they said they would do for $30.00, but I told them I'd replace the chain myself for $10.00 instead, as opposed to them charging me $10 in labor and $20 for a chain. When I told them that apparently the ???? hit the fan because they then wanted $20.00 for looking at the saw and another $20.00 for an estimate on my Mac 3516 I also had there (all they did with that one was look up the parts because I told them what it needed and it was already disassembled). I paid the money and left, but I won't be buying a new Stihl from them so they loose in the long run.

Finally got my saw back, but never got to cut any wood last year because we couldn't access the local woods as the local farmer had mechanical problems and never got his crops out of the fields (the corn sat in the fields all winter - LOL!). Drained the saw of gas and put it storage inside its plastic case.

Got some cutting done this spring, though I did notice that whenever the saw was placed inside its case and left to set I find a small amount of oil on the bottom of the saw. Apparently this is due to the saw spitting out bar chain oil which collects under the outside cover which covers the clutch area and gravity is simply making it drip downward, but I've never had a saw do that before.

After doing some cutting then the sa would not fire at all. Removed spark plug and found it black. Bought some new plugs - only one place has them here; the store that sells the saw don't have them and the Taiwan company which now makes Mc and a bunch of other brands don't actually have an online store that works.

Cleaned old plug and reset its gap and the saw ran a small amount time - it would not idle. Put in new plug, adjusted throttle screw and got it to run in short bursts. During the last burst the chain stopped moving while the engine was running and it went clank-clank-clank. Turned it off and restarted and looked at clutch area - while the saw ran, which the emergency brake off, the clutch was not moving. There is something seriously wrong with the internal workings of this saw, which I suspected when I first used because a saw simply should suddenly catch when you are starting it with enoough force that your hand dislodges from the handle.

While looking at the manual and the saw further and checked the fuel filter as perhaps it was plugged. After draining out the gas I found that there were two hoses inside the gas tank; one with the filter on the end and one with no filter. And idea what's the deal with the second line? I checked the illustrated manual of parts and it shows two hoses, but does not label what the second hose is.

LOL! Checked H L carb screws and they both have plastic caps over them to prevent you from adjusting them - factory set.

Stay far far away from this saw or likely anything else under Mc! Sad, I to see such a brand ruined - our previous Mc saws from before they went bankrupt ran from 10 to 20+ years (including an old 250).

 

[carvinmark]

I'll take your advice and stay far,far away from these saws.Sorry you got jerked around so much.

 

[hornett22]

sounds like the old phrase "you get what yo upy for".....

is still true.buy a stihl,husky(never had a problem with the plastic),dolmar,jred,shindaiwa and don't look back.
ther are plenty of saws to be had for a resonable price.go to your local home depot and see if they have any of their rental units available.mine has two makitas (dolmar) for $205.hell of a deal for an almost 5hp high quality german made saw.
ther are tons of nice looking saws on ebay.my classified circular here in CT always has nice saws for resonable.i just bought a stihl hs80 hedge trimmer that looks almost new for $200.they were so nice i didn't even talk the guy down in price.would have felt bad since i got them for less than half price.

 

[McCullough]

Since I have time left on the warranty I'll get it fixed and put it on a farm auction to recover some of money. Looking at some some Husqvarna's and the 350 seems o.k. for the price range. The only other "pro grade" brand of saw around here is Stihl; however, I recall reading (I believe here) that the main company controls all pricing so your not going to get a "deal" from one dealer to the next. There seems to a wide variety of pricing on Husks however - Mills Fleet Farm wants $289 while Tractor Supply wants $329 for the same saw. Been checking some online dealers also which have free shipping and through an extra chain and oil. Wished my little 3516 Mc still worked a sit was perfect for trimmming / debranching, and lasted for 10 years without any problem.

 

[hornett22]

i got my 357xp from these guys.

got my husky stump grinder from them too.top notch outfit.everything was perfect and it came EXACTLY when they said it would.i highly recommend them! they will give you the same price over the phone.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Chain-Saws-HUSQ...ryZ79666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[hornett22]

they will charge you a mandatory $5 for shipping insurance.

not a big deal to me.it was $40 on the stump grinder but i had no sales tax to pay so it worked out in my favor still.

 

[McCullough]

First the mystery of the second hose:

Attached a photo from the manual which shows two hoses coming out of the fuel tank. My saw is just like the diagram and it has two hoses inside the fuel tank, one with a fuel filter; with both extending out the roof of the fuel tank. I've never saw this before and was wondering what in the world is going on here as even the manual does not label th second hose.

Finally got time to look at the saw better; the last time I used it was only running in short bursts and it suddenly made a very loud internal clanking sound and the chain stop moving, along with the clutch. Pulled the cover off the top which covers the filter and the clutch/sprocket assembly and removed the bar and chain and then restarted. Upon restart the clutch /sproket assmebly were violently rocking from side to side - looks like the bearings and bushing are blown. Due play in the clutch/sprocket assembly the chain cut half way through the lower plastic screw mount - LOL! The vibration also caused the front heat shield to crack from the left corner downward. now I know why new Mc's are still yellow - they are lemons!

Any idea why the top of the engine has hand written lettering/numbering? I do not know if this was on there or not before it took into the local repair shop for its first warranty session. I've never ran into that before and it seems a little suspicious, or perhaps I am wrong - (someone's part number for a part they had on hand; factory refurb indication; or perhaps a factory testor, though somehow I don't think Mc bothers to actual test stuff any more - LOL!).

 

[havvey]

in defence of Mac's

Mcculloch went to pieces mid to late 80's.umpkin2: They capitlized on walmart home depo etc and sold junk!! They lost there dealers and r&d department and did not build competitive saws like the sweeds did. Since the bankruptcy i have not seen any thing promising just more store crap. Now if you want a good mac go to ebaYor other sights and buy the older ones i am doing that there is many out there like the 650 10 10 etc. They never did turn (STOCK)like husky. It is sad to see a great company go to pot but this was true with all there products. They were not building what the customer wanted or doing any quality controle (same happened to homelite)
As for husky you won't find dollar for dollar any better saw. Jonsered is good too I am not into stihl and sacks/makita and they are a bit pricy. but not a bad saw There is other saw makers but they don"t appeal to me (echo shindiwa). Also look at the dealer network and parts husky and sthil are at the top though some may be stronger in sertain areas. Is it worth driving 2 hours to get parts for say an echo or solo saw?? (not to me) :yoyo:

 

[Kiwi cutter]

More defence of McCulloch

I agree with Havvey. If you are only doing personal firewood and that sort of thing then find yourself on older Mac. I have a Wildcat (38cc) that has run an 18in bar from new; I have just reduced it to a 14in to give the old girl an easier time in her old age, and I also run a Pro Mac 700 (70cc) with a 20 or 24in bar. These saws do all the wood I need and more. They are great saws!

 

[danimoor]

I agree with Havvey. If you are only doing personal firewood and that sort of thing then find yourself on older Mac. I have a Wildcat (38cc) that has run an 18in bar from new; I have just reduced it to a 14in to give the old girl an easier time in her old age, and I also run a Pro Mac 700 (70cc) with a 20 or 24in bar. These saws do all the wood I need and more. They are great saws!

Can you tell me the fuel oil ratio on the wildcat? TIA!