C7 Frankestein build

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AU_K2500

NSM
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Brassfield N.C.
As some of you might know ive been in the process of getting a Homelite C7 going again after some invasive white death (magnesium corrosion). It had eaten away the bottom of the starter cover, both sides of the crank case, and even worked its way up to the front of the gas tank, as well as eating all the way through the lower handle brace.

With some help from Mr. Bowsaw (cliff) i got all the parts i needed from a C51 parts saw. Ive been contiously begging for help over on another thread, and i finally felt bad enough about hijacking their thread, i thought id start one.

As we stand now, the saw is running, But, there are a few problems.
1. Gas is running into the carb box after i shut the saw off, Im assuming its the pressure from the tank not being able to escape through the cap, so it pushes gas through the carb,and leaks back into the box.

2. Im pretty sure ive fixed it, but i was getting a nasty shock whenever i would cut the saw off before.

3. I have no chain for the 22" bar, but that should be easily fixed with a visit to baileys.


Also there are surely more troubles to come once i get it in some wood.

Pics will follow shortly of both the saw as it sits now, and the pile of corroded parts!
 
here are some pics of the problem child.
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Just the typical stuff from the auto parts store, dont remember the name, but it was the black, high temp, oil/gas resistant, stuff....sorry to be so vague, just dont remember....and ill be honest, i didnt even wait for it to cure. The mating surfaces were so nice there was almost none of the old sealer left on the mating surface, no more than a film, telling me that these are good castings. I smeared on a thin film, screwed the two together, and progressively tightened the screws. let it sit for an hour or two, filled er up and that was over a week ago, no leaks.
 
Just the typical stuff from the auto parts store, dont remember the name, but it was the black, high temp, oil/gas resistant, stuff....sorry to be so vague, just dont remember....and ill be honest, i didnt even wait for it to cure. The mating surfaces were so nice there was almost none of the old sealer left on the mating surface, no more than a film, telling me that these are good castings. I smeared on a thin film, screwed the two together, and progressively tightened the screws. let it sit for an hour or two, filled er up and that was over a week ago, no leaks.

that saw looks a little different than when you got it. nice two-ton color. gonna paint it? got 99% of the parts for my C5 but its still in the box in pieces. cleaning EVERYthing; slow goin though. one of these days.
 
Only reason i put her all together was to make sure she would run. i would have hated to take weeks or months cleaning, stripping, and painting everything, and then find out there was a problem. and yes i do plan on painting. Already been to TSC and gotten the paint color guide for their heavy equipment and implement line of paints!
 
Only reason i put her all together was to make sure she would run. i would have hated to take weeks or months cleaning, stripping, and painting everything, and then find out there was a problem. and yes i do plan on painting. Already been to TSC and gotten the paint color guide for their heavy equipment and implement line of paints!

did you check compression yet? what was your ring end gap?
 
did you check compression yet? what was your ring end gap?

I dont have a gauge yet, but compression was clocked at 150 PSI before it was shipped to me. Not sure on the ring gap, didnt check it before i put the P&C back together. But the Rings and piston in general looked to be in VERY good shape, along with the Cylinder. Must have been a low hour saw, almost no markings on the cylinder.

She runs like a top, granted i havent had the saw under load as i dont have a chain yet. But all i did was assemble the parts from the two saw, rebuilt the carb and replaced the in-tank fuel line, after priming it started on the third pull. its a monster! super loud, and tons of power....atleast it feels like it anyway! lol
 
I dont have a gauge yet, but compression was clocked at 150 PSI before it was shipped to me. Not sure on the ring gap, didnt check it before i put the P&C back together. But the Rings and piston in general looked to be in VERY good shape, along with the Cylinder. Must have been a low hour saw, almost no markings on the cylinder.

She runs like a top, granted i havent had the saw under load as i dont have a chain yet. But all i did was assemble the parts from the two saw, rebuilt the carb and replaced the in-tank fuel line, after priming it started on the third pull. its a monster! super loud, and tons of power....atleast it feels like it anyway! lol

you want louder? put a stack muffler on it. am i missing something? i can't see the oiler button
 
you want louder? put a stack muffler on it. am i missing something? i can't see the oiler button

Youve got a good eye. i bolted the carb and box up in haste to get it running, and didnt snake the oiler rod in first, tried after the fact but no luck. Its not a big deal since im not cutting, but will need to take all the plastic guides and bushings off the C51 carb box, and put them on the saw, and install the Rod and button.

Oh, and i fixed the leak i was haing from the carb, turned out i just needed to tighten a few things up from the rebuild.
 
Make SURE you tune it (and the E-Z) right or you'll be disapointed in it's performance............and you could BURN IT UP. Tune it so it 'four strokes' at WOT with no load. Don't go near it with a tachometer when tuning. After it's good and warm, tune it so that it just 'cleans up' when under load in the cut. It should drop back to 'four stroking' whenever you lift pressure (reduce the cutting load) in the cut. If you tune it so it runs 'clean' at WOT with no load (or tune to some magical RPM number with a tach) then it will lean out in the cut and bog down. Leaning out will also damage the engine.
 
Make SURE you tune it (and the E-Z) right or you'll be disapointed in it's performance............and you could BURN IT UP. Tune it so it 'four strokes' at WOT with no load. Don't go near it with a tachometer when tuning. After it's good and warm, tune it so that it just 'cleans up' when under load in the cut. It should drop back to 'four stroking' whenever you lift pressure (reduce the cutting load) in the cut. If you tune it so it runs 'clean' at WOT with no load (or tune to some magical RPM number with a tach) then it will lean out in the cut and bog down. Leaning out will also damage the engine.

Preciate that Aaron, and dont worry, i dont even own a tach so that wont be a problem.
 
Chain came in last week....Was a little off on my guesstimation on the DL count. had it broken and spun at a local shop with the right number of DL. So its on the saw now, oiler is working....everything checks out. Hope to be cutting some wood soon!
 
awesome looks just like mine, mine is even multi-colored to! i got mine from a car show for $20 and got told it didint run. turns out it had about 2" of varnish in the tank, was real handy to be able to split the tank and clean it out!

these old saws have some serious torque
 
Im sitting at work right now, but when things slow down ive got a 6x6 waiting out side and a GoPro video camera.
Gonna make an attempt to video tape the first cut with the C7. Itll be the first time ive had it in some wood.
 
Cool saws guys. I've been finding out lately that Randy is right: Homelites know rock and roll.
 
exscuse my skills with the video camera.

Here goes nothing.
[video=youtube;rNX0wKhSYHQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNX0wKhSYHQ[/video]
 
Not sure if you guys can watch the video...its not great, i lose the rear clam on the second cut, and the saw bogs. besides that she runs and cuts pretty well....loads of power.
 

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