Can I remove 1/2 an ash?

[Garfield]

The customer has requested that I remove the right half of this ash tree. It seems a bit drastic to me. I told him I would do some research and get back with him.

 

[BRCCArborist]

Thinning and reduction cuts are the best way to go, get rid of the sail effect. This is assuming the crotch is free of included bark or any other defects. To cut the entire leader off is too much. Kind of hard to tell what the crotch looks like from the picture though.

 

[Garfield]

Some included bark

There is some incluced bark. There is a power line (low voltage) past the tree and his concrete over the concrete patio. I said we shouldn't take over 15% and he said will it kill my tree. I said probably not but I don't want my name on it if it does so I'll do some research. He would settle for removing one limb that's hard to see in pic that is over power line ...actually touching it.

 

[masterarbor]

you might be able to get away with removing it, but i would try to talk him out of it. you'll get the same amount of money either way and less work with a trim and cable. it looks like there is a little cavity at the crotch as well. it looks like a green or white ash, and in my experience if the tree is healthy, you can cut them pretty hard if necessary. we have ash trees blow out often from storms so i take the weight out of the tips and sometimes the cuts are pretty big. (trying to adhere to the 1/3 rule) that said, they can handle heavy pruning. but be careful, 'cause they'll sucker like crazy. you probably know a lot of what i'm saying already, so excuse me if it seems like i'm starting in cahpter 1. also, it looks like the tree would be lopsided if you cut it out.

sell him on the trim. do it by educating him, so he thinks it's his idea! good luck,
kevin

 

[Garfield]

clarification

Let me make sure I understand...suckers are coming up from the roots in the yard after I trim this tree? The 1/3 rule....Trimming the limb back to a point where there's a limb at least 1/3 the size of the main limb. I have never cabled. I have read about it....2/3 of the way up....get it level etc. Where do I get the supplies to cable with and how much do they cost? Chapter 1 might have been appropriate Thank you for your help

 

[masterarbor]

the suckers will come out of the place where too big a cut has been made or along the parent stem that hosts the cut. it is called advantageous budding and is actually quite a clever and neat thing under the right circumstances. if a tree gets storm damage and all or most of the foliage is damaged, the tree sends signals to that part of the tree to begin new shoots where the tree is capable of growing, but hasn't and probably wouldn't unless this need arises. when we make too large of a cut, the tree sends out this message to the "damaged" limb and "suckers" begin to grow. that is why the 1/3 rule is applicable. so if the part cut off is theoretically 100% mass, the existing limb left after the cut should have a minimum of 33% mass, or 1/3 the size of the cut. this varies from species to species, but is a good rule of thumb. on a side note, aesthetics should play an important role in this decision making process as well.

Cabling, as a rule is done 2/3 of the way up from the suspect crotch or weakness and not 2/3 up the tree in general. it is very simple procedure and the difficulty lies more in body positioning that actual technical difficulty. that said, it may require being shown at least once, but if you look into it adequately you should be able to pull it off. the common mistake is that people install it too tightly. in the winter, it is fine to install it just taught, as the weight of the leaves will put additional weight on it. avoid pulling the branches together tightly, unless you are attempted to fix a split crotch and in that case woodrods or bolts must be placed in the crotch.

if you aren't giving up yet, then you will need to invest in the tools necessary. which will run you $200.00-$300.00, depending on the quality or if you already have them.

TOOLS
come along
cable grabber (think kline tools)
bolt cutters
lag spinner or 3/4" box wrench
gear bag
sling
carabiner

MATERIALS
1/4 or 5/16 EHS cable 12'-18'
two 1/2 inch J lags
1/4 or 5/16 inch thimbles

i've got to go now, but if you're still interested, i can talk you through the procedure. you may not even break even on the tools this job, but you'll have them for future jobs. talk to you soon,
kevin

 

[Garfield]

Tools needed..

I have all the tools needed......even the Klein grip used for stretching overhead electrical services I assume you mean. I do not have the cable and supplies mentioned. I have seen this stuff in Sherrill catalog but don't know enough to make an educated decision on the type of cable.....static, flexible etc. and the hardware needed. Are you talking about arborist supplies or local hardware store supplies?

 

[Garfield]

Thank you

Thank you for your time and knowledge on the subject. It seems you really know your stuff. I appreciate your willingness to teach others. I don't think the guy is going to change his mind at this point but I would still appreciate the dialog so I can order what I need and be ready for the next one!!!

 

[tree MDS]

Try to head it back, otherwise known as "subordinating a co-dominate leader", then you don't need any cables and as it loses its "co-dominance" eventually you can remove it in its entirety.

 

[Job Corps Tree]

can i remove 1/2 an ash

Go for the Thin and Cable, it looks like if you take that hole lead you may lose the Tree or have the rest fall over!

 

[Garfield]

where to buy cable supplies

What system would everyone recommend using for cabling...static, dynamic etc. ? Thank

 

[masterarbor]

given the compromised branch attachments, i'd go static.
kevin

 

[pbtree]

you might be able to get away with removing it, but i would try to talk him out of it. you'll get the same amount of money either way and less work with a trim and cable. it looks like there is a little cavity at the crotch as well. it looks like a green or white ash, and in my experience if the tree is healthy, you can cut them pretty hard if necessary. we have ash trees blow out often from storms so i take the weight out of the tips and sometimes the cuts are pretty big. (trying to adhere to the 1/3 rule) that said, they can handle heavy pruning. but be careful, 'cause they'll sucker like crazy. you probably know a lot of what i'm saying already, so excuse me if it seems like i'm starting in cahpter 1. also, it looks like the tree would be lopsided if you cut it out.

sell him on the trim. do it by educating him, so he thinks it's his idea! good luck,
kevin

What he said...