Can I use Wildthing bar on Remmington saw?

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doktour

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Over the years I have purchased 18" Wildthing chainsaws for use around the ranch. They last a couple of years then fail. I have kept purchasing the same model since I have extra bars, chains and other parts.

Well I have decided to go to a better, more reliable chainsaw so I do not have to replace it so frequently.

My research shows that Remmington seems to be a sturdy saw for my somewhat limited use.

My question is this: can I use the bars and chains from my 18" Wildthing chainsaw on the Remmington RM 5118R Rodeo 18" chainsaw? Oregon shows that the Remmington uses a 72 drive link while the Wildthing uses a 62 drive link. But if I change the bar and chain will the 62 work on the 72 saw?

If not, can someone suggest an 18" saw with a 62 drive link that is sturder then the Wildthing and still in the $200. range.

Thank you for any advise.
 
for 200 bucks, you can get a new poulan 5020 delivered to your door off of amazon. It is full sized 3/8ths though, so your wild thing bars and chains won't swap.

The PP5020AV is a much more modern design, uses a stratocharged engine, 50 ccs and has antivibe to it.

Besides that, hardly ever read anything here about new remingtons.
 
^^^ this, $189.99 delivered right now on amazon prime, another 8.99 for the carb tool and you have a saw that can't be beat for the price.
 
I got one of these on the strength of that huge review thread somebody else posted a year or so back. I love it. Somehow I've managed to kill the oiler - I kept clogging it with aggressive noodling in the past few months and I think I'm going to need to replace that, but it's hardly an issue I haven't had with other saws. I blame myself on it. It clears noodles really well but I was running it pretty hard. Other than that, it's been an excellent value for the money, very reliable, and a good power/weight balance. I have a 20" bar on it and that's about its limit in tougher wood, but I'd totally buy it again...
 
Over the years I have purchased 18" Wildthing chainsaws for use around the ranch. They last a couple of years then fail. I have kept purchasing the same model since I have extra bars, chains and other parts.

I'm curious here. My latest saw is an almost new Poulan P3416, which is pretty much same as a Wildthing I suppose. I've also got a Poulan Woodshark 1950. These two Poulans were gifts from relatives who go to yard sales, find stuff for practically nothing and then give it me. I like my 1950, I've used it a lot, it's very light, 14" bar, and fun to use. People on AS are always poking fun at Wildthings. So what is it exactly that fails on your cheap Poulan Wildthings? I did notice in my P3416 manual that it states that these saws are for "occasional use only." Parts are available on ebay.......
 
If you can kill a Wild Thing you can kill anything else too.

They are capable saws and with proper tuning and maintenance will last a long time. Their biggest issue is lack of A/V, but there are lots of versions that do have A/V.

It might be nice to have something bigger, but spend some time learning about tuning and such first.

The Remmingtons are obsolete designs no longer supported. A 5020 would be much nicer
 
My now worn out wild thing lasted 6 years. I used it to cut 2-4 cords a year. I can't complain about that. It vibrated my hands something terrible though.

What breaks on your wild things every 2 years?

I have a good bar and half a dozen chains for an 18" poulon sitting in my garage also.
 
for 200 bucks, you can get a new poulan 5020 delivered to your door off of amazon. It is full sized 3/8ths though, so your wild thing bars and chains won't swap.

The PP5020AV is a much more modern design, uses a stratocharged engine, 50 ccs and has antivibe to it.

Besides that, hardly ever read anything here about new remingtons.

My PP5020 will finish its third year in another month, and it's still running like new, maybe a tad better, in fact. Sure it's had some piddly little probs: fuel filter fell off line in tank (snip line, reinsert filter, resume work); carb retaining nuts worked loose (drop of blue loctite, resume); air filter leaked a little dust (micro-bead of silicone, resume).

Strictly speaking, it's got a strato-scavenged engine, which gives it great fuel endurance and more than adequate power IMHO. Its clutch cover is excellent at clearing noodles- just noodled a p/u-load of shagbark hickory rounds in half friday for lugging & loading. It would be really great with about a pound or so less weight, a couple inches less width and an adjustable clutch-driven oiler, but then Husqy would sell fewer 550XPs.

The A/V is typical Husqy- excellent. It's relatively quiet. KEEP the chain SHARP and even the much-maligned "Vanguard" chain cuts well even when fully engaged in hickory. Touch it up at least once every other fillup; saw doesn't have the power to burn its way through.

The OEM bar is an oddball: 20" nominal with 70 DL. The saw takes K095 (small Husqy) bar-mount-pattern bars, 3/8" pitch .050" gauge chains. Typical K095 20" bar takes 72 DL chain. Having a chain-breaker & spinner helps a/r. Seems like the cheapo OEM bar will be around a while longer- that's fine by me.

Overall, for the price, can you say "no-brainer"? :dancing: Almost a freebie.
 
My PP5020 will finish its third year in another month, and it's still running like new, maybe a tad better, in fact. Sure it's had some piddly little probs: fuel filter fell off line in tank (snip line, reinsert filter, resume work); carb retaining nuts worked loose (drop of blue loctite, resume); air filter leaked a little dust (micro-bead of silicone, resume).

Strictly speaking, it's got a strato-scavenged engine, which gives it great fuel endurance and more than adequate power IMHO. Its clutch cover is excellent at clearing noodles- just noodled a p/u-load of shagbark hickory rounds in half friday for lugging & loading. It would be really great with about a pound or so less weight, a couple inches less width and an adjustable clutch-driven oiler, but then Husqy would sell fewer 550XPs.

The A/V is typical Husqy- excellent. It's relatively quiet. KEEP the chain SHARP and even the much-maligned "Vanguard" chain cuts well even when fully engaged in hickory. Touch it up at least once every other fillup; saw doesn't have the power to burn its way through.

The OEM bar is an oddball: 20" nominal with 70 DL. The saw takes K095 (small Husqy) bar-mount-pattern bars, 3/8" pitch .050" gauge chains. Typical K095 20" bar takes 72 DL chain. Having a chain-breaker & spinner helps a/r. Seems like the cheapo OEM bar will be around a while longer- that's fine by me.

Overall, for the price, can you say "no-brainer"? :dancing: Almost a freebie.

I wish they would make a cheap 70 on that platform, but I don't think the husky overlords would let them.
 
I wish they would make a cheap 70 on that platform, but I don't think the husky overlords would let them.

I'm one who could go for that- how 'bout 5 hp running a 28" bar for maybe $500? Meanwhile, shopping for a 70 cc Husqy, so you see how it works out here. One wouldn't realistically expect a PoulanPro to match up well with a 372XP or 576XP, would one?

It's fun watching some folks' reactions to how a "Pull-On" can toss chips. Mainly Stihl-heads. :yes:
 
The snow is not the only thing that is starting to get deep 'round here.

How come Poulan won't put out a HP rating for their saws???
 
The snow is not the only thing that is starting to get deep 'round here.

How come Poulan won't put out a HP rating for their saws???
Meh, hp ratings are pretty bogus most of the time.
 
I'm one who could go for that- how 'bout 5 hp running a 28" bar for maybe $500? Meanwhile, shopping for a 70 cc Husqy, so you see how it works out here. One wouldn't realistically expect a PoulanPro to match up well with a 372XP or 576XP, would one?

It's fun watching some folks' reactions to how a "Pull-On" can toss chips. Mainly Stihl-heads. :yes:

They would about crap themselves seeing my 505 or 8500 then....proly win some good beer bets "My old raggedy poulan can out cut that stihl alleged farm'boss' you got there" "no way" "case 0 beer"? "you on"!!

yank, rumble rumble rumble, LUUUUUNNNCCCCHHH EATEN!
 
Meh, hp ratings are pretty bogus most of the time.
You've got to have some point of comparison. I could say the 5020 is heavy and underpowered for a 50CC (which it is, IMO after having used one with a VERY sharp chain) but there's no basis to compare it to the other players in that space....
 
You've got to have some point of comparison. I could say the 5020 is heavy and underpowered for a 50CC (which it is, IMO after having used one with a VERY sharp chain) but there's no basis to compare it to the other players in that space....

The main comparison is it is good enough to cut a lot of firewood and only costs 200 bucks new. For people who only need a few cord a year, meh, I'd take one over whatever 200 dollar husky or stihl is out there new.
 
You've got to have some point of comparison. I could say the 5020 is heavy and underpowered for a 50CC (which it is, IMO after having used one with a VERY sharp chain) but there's no basis to compare it to the other players in that space....
It probably is, at least in stock form. But then it is very inexpensive, well made and with a complete strato intake system, and an effective tool for it's intended purpose. And like many other saws I have no doubt there is performance potential there (it is the saw I want to port next).

Unless the hp ratings come from 3rd party testing to known standard they mean absolutely nothing - the marketing man can simply write down whatever they want.
 
The main comparison is it is good enough to cut a lot of firewood and only costs 200 bucks new. For people who only need a few cord a year, meh, I'd take one over whatever 200 dollar husky or stihl is out there new.
If you want a cheap saw that does OK cutting wood I agree.

OTOH if someone is going to endlessly extol about how it is better than a comparative Stihl I believe a reality check is necessary. It's like the Council Tool maul all over again. We saw how well that ended up. :happy:
 

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