Can vertical cracks in a tree cause it to barber chair while cutting down?

[mike758]

My neighbor gave me permission to take firewood off his property which is pretty much all dead white oak. The trees aren’t too big, 12-16” diameter, straight , 40-50’ tall, pretty dead (barely any branches and no bark). My main concern is a lot of them have vertical cracks which I assume are frost cracks, which go pretty deep into the tree, 3-4”. I’ve taken down a lot of trees but never seen cracks like this. I was wondering if these could cause the trunk to split unexpectedly while cutting down even using proper technique or if they’re not much of a concern. Thanks

 

[TheJollyLogger]

It definitely increases the risk of a chair... pics would help.

 

[Tobystihl]

Yes it does, be very careful!

 

[Arbor1]

I hope you are careful with that cracked tree. The clearing of the trees for the wood sounds like a good plan for both of you.

 

[jblnut]

Not recommending this and haven’t done it personally but could one wrap a 2” ratchet strap around a bunch of times and tighten it up just above the cut to help keep it together ?

 

[HumBurner]

Not recommending this and haven’t done it personally but could one wrap a 2” ratchet strap around a bunch of times and tighten it up just above the cut to help keep it together ?

IF you're going to do this, use chains not strapping, and especially neither from Harbor Freight!

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Not recommending this and haven’t done it personally but could one wrap a 2” ratchet strap around a bunch of times and tighten it up just above the cut to help keep it together ?

I have, and it's not the be all end all, but it definitely helps... good advice.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

IF you're going to do this, use chains not strapping, and especially neither from Harbor Freight!

I'd rather have the stretch of straps, I've had chains slip down as the tree moves.

 

[pdqdl]

IF you're going to do this, use chains not strapping, and especially neither from Harbor Freight!

I think a 20' x 2" load strap would be just as strong wrapped around a tree as an anti-chair binder. There's a lot to be said for multiple wraps done with a long binder, whether steel or nylon. Of course, you would need to be using a good trucker's tiedown, not the Harbor Freight version.

I suppose it all depends on how big the tree is, but it would take a mighty powerful split to rupture a 20,000 lb rated strap going around a tree 3 times. That would be 120,000 lbs of breaking strength, which is more than enough to hold your average tree.

 

[HumBurner]

To each their own. It's rare I wrap a cracked tree, anyways. Ways to deal with it without wrapping.

 

[Howsitgoineh]

Tying, strapping, or chaining the trunk as mentioned above does very much help avoid a barber chair.
Also - if your felling area allows for it, make your face cut and back cut "against" the crack or split. This way your hinge is in the opposite direction of the split, it's the safest way to fell a questionable tree

 

[Brushwacker]

If there's little to no tension from leaning or wind, I would think low risk. When gravity or push or pull puts enough tension to cause fibers to break before their cut, no telling what, be ready to let go of the saw and move very, very quick.
I prefer a low dollar saw when cutting high risk trees or a saw you that you don't like. ☺
Did anyone mention boring the center out, leaving enough outer wood on each side for a hinge lowering the risk of barberchair ?
Anyway always stand reconciled to God, be alert, and careful .

 

[Howsitgoineh]

If there's little to no tension from leaning or wind, I would think low risk. When gravity or push or pull puts enough tension to cause fibers to break before their cut, no telling what, be ready to let go of the saw and move very, very quick.
I prefer a low dollar saw when cutting high risk trees or a saw you that you don't like. ☺
Did anyone mention boring the center out, leaving enough outer wood on each side for a hinge lowering the risk of barberchair ?
Anyway always stand reconciled to God, be alert, and careful .

Good advice - forgot to mention the bore cut. We use this felling method almost exclusively now. Both to prevent barber chair, and also this way you can really direct your cut carefully before the tree begins to fall

 

[irhunter]

dead white oak. The trees aren’t too big, 12-16” diameter, straight , 40-50’ tall, pretty dead (barely any branches and no bark).

I’ve taken down a lot of trees but never seen cracks like this.

Cracks notwithstanding, I hope the OP understands there could be a couple more elevated-risk factors at work here.

Well-dead trees with unknown-condition tops. Straight enough that lean is sometimes hard to detect (needing wedge pounding). Maybe, closed-canopy needing directional falling or hung-up potential or dead tops whacking other trees on the way down.

One guy's "lot of trees" is another guy's......

Compounding risk factors can be difficult to fully appreciate.

I would suggest starting this project by finding a single tree with only the cracks to worry about. Easy-to-see, minor, lean (no wedges). Zero trees in the way.

Roy

 

[HumBurner]

Cracks notwithstanding, I hope the OP understands there could be a couple more elevated-risk factors at work here.

Well-dead trees with unknown-condition tops. Straight enough that lean is sometimes hard to detect (needing wedge pounding). Maybe, closed-canopy needing directional falling or hung-up potential or dead tops whacking other trees on the way down.

One guy's "lot of trees" is another guy's......

Compounding risk factors can be difficult to fully appreciate.

I would suggest starting this project by finding a single tree with only the cracks to worry about. Easy-to-see, minor, lean (no wedges). Zero trees in the way.

Roy

Great post.

Very true, working in the woods is very different than just cutting trees.

 

[lone wolf]

My neighbor gave me permission to take firewood off his property which is pretty much all dead white oak. The trees aren’t too big, 12-16” diameter, straight , 40-50’ tall, pretty dead (barely any branches and no bark). My main concern is a lot of them have vertical cracks which I assume are frost cracks, which go pretty deep into the tree, 3-4”. I’ve taken down a lot of trees but never seen cracks like this. I was wondering if these could cause the trunk to split unexpectedly while cutting down even using proper technique or if they’re not much of a concern. Thanks

Pics?

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

My understanding, and I'm not a feller so correct me if I'm mistaken, is:

• White oak have a tendency to barber chair when healthy, and when hollow barber chair and then explode.
• The method for felling non-decayed white oak is to face cut, then bore cut the center, then back-cut the trigger, watching for widow makers before the fall and rearward projectiles during the fall.
• Decayed/unsound/compromised white oak are a potential funeral in the making.

 

[Woody912]

All of the above along with long bar and long arms

 

[Woody912]

My understanding, and I'm not a feller so correct me if I'm mistaken, is:

• White oak have a tendency to barber chair when healthy, and when hollow barber chair and then explode.
• The method for felling non-decayed white oak is to face cut, then bore cut the center, then back-cut the trigger, watching for widow makers before the fall and rearward projectiles during the fall.
• Decayed/unsound/compromised white oak are a potential funeral in the making.

That tree was an accident waiting to happen

 

[Henry Finley]

I have 2 old but very heavy 8 foot chains with an old-fashioned ring on on end and an old-fashion hook on the other. I guess you could say they are 150 years old, but they can still lift a battleship. They get wrapped around the tree a foot or 2 up from every cut I make. A barber chair from your average 10 inch diameter tree likely can't get past that without me hearing something, even over the chainsaw. Back in those much poorer times than now, I think I got the "feel' of when I'm getting close to run-like-heck time. That tree is coming down and God himself can't stop it. My rule is, I wrap the tree, no discussion. Then I make my front angle cut, Then I back off and shut off the saw and watch the tree, and the wind in the branches. I make a judgement as to whether to go back and give it some back cut. Generally I go for the long play. I leave LOTS of hinge. I've got all day for that tree to come down. Besides, there's going to be a rope keeping tension the other way, So far, that system has given me some fine firewood. If my two 8 foot chains can't make 2 winds apiece around the tree a, then I'll find a bigger tree already on the ground. Better to be a firewood vulture, living off the dead ones already on the ground, than being buzzard food with my sister never knowing why I disappeared. I'm glad the good lord gave me those hard times way out in the country. Out there, living in a cabin all those years with a maul, an ax, some chain and a come-along, A very old used Craftsman 19" with the thumb oiler, and my Homeite 330. All alone. Here's my advice. You look up at the tree good and hard. Keep in your mind every second, that tree might be standing there not moving a muscle. But it can kill you. It won't be plucking is own pine cones and throwing them at you. That sucker can be laying across you so fast...
I lived it, just like I wrote it. Strangely, hard as those years were, they're priceless now. Getting killed by a tree. Nope, not me brother.