Not all of them. I think the canned Red Armor is just 93 octane E0 gasoline. Maybe it has some stabilizers added.
Nope.
https://www.echo.ca/getattachment/1...2ddc85144/v2_Echo-Red-Armor-Fuel_e_080516.PDF
Not all of them. I think the canned Red Armor is just 93 octane E0 gasoline. Maybe it has some stabilizers added.
Thanks I was not aware of that., that's pretty pointless.Not all of them. I think the canned Red Armor is just 93 octane E0 gasoline. Maybe it has some stabilizers added.
Don't know and candidly don't care really. It works for me and that is all the is important. Interestingly, my ancient 028 runs much better on canned fuel than it ever did on pump gas, actually idles properly and starts better. as well. I adjust all my saws to 4 stroke a bit, always have. Not one to run them extremely lean simply because I don't want mechanical issues to deal with and I really don't have time to take them apart and rebuild them because of a lean condition that destroys internal components. One thing I've noticed with canned fuel is the absence of excessive exhaust smoke even when cold and I always warm them up before using them, do the same with all my powered equipment actually and the turbo charged diesels always get a 'cooling off period' prior to shut down because turbochargers tend to 'coke' up on the hot side if shut down instantly after loading them. Never replaced a turbo ever. Don't plan on it either.Not all of them. I think the canned Red Armor is just 93 octane E0 gasoline. Maybe it has some stabilizers added.
I guess I don't need to 'take a bath' in it...lol I see they use lab rats to determine the toxicity of the various compounds. I'm good with that as I shoot the bastards when I find them in the barn as well as the wiring insulation chewing mice which I trap and dispose of in trapping buckets with peanut butter installed. I also put stinky dryer sheets under the hoods and in the cabs as well. Been there with chewed wiring insulation as well as nests and mouse turds and pee and nothing is pleasant to remove either and always costs a lot to remediate. I'm into removing the source of the issue before it becomes an issue.
Any alkylate based fuel is better than non ethanol pump fuel in every single way.I run the first half gallon, or so, into my car, then fill the 2-cycle can (with mix oil already inside, so I don’t straight gas my stuff!).
Because I may not use use everything up, I have a large, manila, shipping tag attached to the can with the pimp date. After 30 days, that gets mixed in with the vehicle fuel too.
Philbert
In regards to starting I've never had that issue.Fresh cans, pour it in and the equipment runs noticeably lower rpm, let it sit a week+ and it refuses to start and the whole can is bad. It's a real issue that a few shops are making bank off by charging a hr to dump out and refill.
You do realize that canned fuel isn't exactly the same as 100LL, but it's pretty dang close minus the lead. The majority blending component of 100LL is alkylate.Have you tried going to a local airport and getting 100LL from the pump? I would also not be above getting 93+ octane from the pump then add water until the ethanol becomes water saturated falling to the bottom of the tank allowing easy draining leaving pure fuel behind.
As in freshly delivered to a store with a high volume of sales. Thats why you see me telling folks to buy vp stuff, its literally right next to the tru fuel on the shelf.
No it's not.Not all of them. I think the canned Red Armor is just 93 octane E0 gasoline. Maybe it has some stabilizers added.
It's not true at all and an easy glance of the MSDS proves this.Thanks I was not aware of that., that's pretty pointless.
I run the ethanol-free fuel in my stuff. Station is less than 2 miles from my house.Any alkylate based fuel is better than non ethanol pump fuel in every single way.
However, it is very expensive and I have never had an issue with Efree Premium.
It seems tru fuel is from Louisiana and VP is from Texas, I would not be surprised if they are canned in the same plant on different days.You do realize that canned fuel isn't exactly the same as 100LL, but it's pretty dang close minus the lead. The majority blending component of 100LL is alkylate.
I don't have concrete proof, but I have a strong suspicion that most canned fuel sold in the US is made by VP. The exceptions would be motomix and aspen
Refining is a small world and the number of company's that sell akylate is small.It seems tru fuel is from Louisiana and VP is from Texas, I would not be surprised if they are canned in the same plant on different days.
In the other thread I referenced, the guy at TruFuel said he also made Husqvarna fuel. Used different mix oils, and made them per customer specs.It seems tru fuel is from Louisiana and VP is from Texas, I would not be surprised if they are canned in the same plant on different days.
I do the same when filling the cans with 93 non-oxy. I don't mix first though as I fill VP racing cans to be used in pressure washers, lawn mowers and other small engines. I'll pour the straight stuff into my 2-cycle cans at home when they run empty. A 2.5gal can for saws lasts a month or so around here fall/winter and gets dumped into the diesel barrel before we start cutting in the fall again after sitting all summer. That makes a homebrew #1 diesel that I'm sure y'all will love lol. A gallon of gas in 1000gal of diesel works great to keep it from gelling.I run the first half gallon, or so, into my car, then fill the 2-cycle can (with mix oil already inside, so I don’t straight gas my stuff!).
Because I may not use use everything up, I have a large, manila, shipping tag attached to the can with the pimp date. After 30 days, that gets mixed in with the vehicle fuel too.
Philbert
Not ‘discard’; pour it in the vehicle’s fuel tank. Even the gasoline companies say that some of the additives start to separate, degrade, etc., aftet 30 days.You discard fuel after 30 days ? That seems a bit soon to me.
. I don't mix first though as I fill VP racing cans to be used in pressure washers, lawn mowers and other small engines.
Yeah makes sense about others not following directions and generally just being dumb.Not ‘discard’; pour it in the vehicle’s fuel tank. Even the gasoline companies say that some of the additives start to separate, degrade, etc., after 30 days.
Rather be safe.
As a ‘one-man show’ (?), you can do what works for you. Once you have multiple people involved, the chances for confusion go through the roof.
Straight gas in VP cans sounds risky to be, unless unambiguously marked (lots of guys don’t read labels).
We even used separate types of cans for different fuels: 1 gallon cans for mixed fuel ONLY, and 5 gallon cans for regular, unleaded gas ONLY. Yellow for diesel.
Whatever system works.
Philbert
I had several pet rats as a kid and a bunch of them developed huge tumors. I have always been a little suspicious of tests on rodents.I see they use lab rats to determine the toxicity of the various compounds.
True fuel doesn't produce fuel.In the other thread I referenced, the guy at TruFuel said he also made Husqvarna fuel. Used different mix oils, and made them per customer specs.
Philbert
Mixing gasoline with diesel does not make diesel #1. It is a fine way to damage injection pumps and injectors though.I do the same when filling the cans with 93 non-oxy. I don't mix first though as I fill VP racing cans to be used in pressure washers, lawn mowers and other small engines. I'll pour the straight stuff into my 2-cycle cans at home when they run empty. A 2.5gal can for saws lasts a month or so around here fall/winter and gets dumped into the diesel barrel before we start cutting in the fall again after sitting all summer. That makes a homebrew #1 diesel that I'm sure y'all will love lol. A gallon of gas in 1000gal of diesel works great to keep it from gelling.
You discard fuel after 30 days ? That seems a bit soon to me. I honestly
don't have a discard by date but I'll empty the four 5 gal cans in for sure a few months.
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