Canned pre-mix fuel
- Thread starter Eman85
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Thanks I was not aware of that., that's pretty pointless.
Sidecarflip
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Don't know and candidly don't care really. It works for me and that is all the is important. Interestingly, my ancient 028 runs much better on canned fuel than it ever did on pump gas, actually idles properly and starts better. as well. I adjust all my saws to 4 stroke a bit, always have. Not one to run them extremely lean simply because I don't want mechanical issues to deal with and I really don't have time to take them apart and rebuild them because of a lean condition that destroys internal components. One thing I've noticed with canned fuel is the absence of excessive exhaust smoke even when cold and I always warm them up before using them, do the same with all my powered equipment actually and the turbo charged diesels always get a 'cooling off period' prior to shut down because turbochargers tend to 'coke' up on the hot side if shut down instantly after loading them. Never replaced a turbo ever. Don't plan on it either.
Sidecarflip
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I guess I don't need to 'take a bath' in it...lol I see they use lab rats to determine the toxicity of the various compounds. I'm good with that as I shoot the *******s when I find them in the barn as well as the wiring insulation chewing mice which I trap and dispose of in trapping buckets with peanut butter installed. I also put stinky dryer sheets under the hoods and in the cabs as well. Been there with chewed wiring insulation as well as nests and mouse turds and pee and nothing is pleasant to remove either and always costs a lot to remediate. I'm into removing the source of the issue before it becomes an issue.
Any alkylate based fuel is better than non ethanol pump fuel in every single way.
However, it is very expensive and I have never had an issue with Efree Premium.
In regards to starting I've never had that issue.
In regards to RPM, every fuel requires different carb tuning.
You do realize that canned fuel isn't exactly the same as 100LL, but it's pretty dang close minus the lead. The majority blending component of 100LL is alkylate.
I don't have concrete proof, but I have a strong suspicion that most canned fuel sold in the US is made by VP. The exceptions would be motomix and aspen
No it's not.
It's not true at all and an easy glance of the MSDS proves this.
I run the ethanol-free fuel in my stuff. Station is less than 2 miles from my house.
With some groups we run canned stuff to avoid expensive errors that can occur with multiple hands involved.
As noted, can be handy to have an unopened can in storage.
Philbert
It seems tru fuel is from Louisiana and VP is from Texas, I would not be surprised if they are canned in the same plant on different days.
Refining is a small world and the number of company's that sell akylate is small.
In the other thread I referenced, the guy at TruFuel said he also made Husqvarna fuel. Used different mix oils, and made them per customer specs.
Philbert
I do the same when filling the cans with 93 non-oxy. I don't mix first though as I fill VP racing cans to be used in pressure washers, lawn mowers and other small engines. I'll pour the straight stuff into my 2-cycle cans at home when they run empty. A 2.5gal can for saws lasts a month or so around here fall/winter and gets dumped into the diesel barrel before we start cutting in the fall again after sitting all summer. That makes a homebrew #1 diesel that I'm sure y'all will love lol. A gallon of gas in 1000gal of diesel works great to keep it from gelling.
You discard fuel after 30 days ? That seems a bit soon to me. I honestly
don't have a discard by date but I'll empty the four 5 gal cans in for sure a few months.
Not ‘discard’; pour it in the vehicle’s fuel tank. Even the gasoline companies say that some of the additives start to separate, degrade, etc., aftet 30 days.
Rather be safe.
As a ‘one-man show’ (?), you can do what works for you. Once you have multiple people involved, the chances for confusion go through the roof.
Straight gas in VP cans sounds risky to be, unless unambiguously marked (lots of guys don’t read labels).
We even used separate types of cans for different fuels: 1 gallon cans for mixed fuel ONLY, and 5 gallon cans for regular, unleaded gas ONLY. Yellow for diesel.
Whatever system works.
Philbert
Yeah makes sense about others not following directions and generally just being dumb.
I guess knowing what I've got going on is easy to keep track of lol. Blue cans have non-oxy, red cans have unleaded of some kind to be used in whatever, yellow have diesel and one black one has a #1 diesel mix in it. Just Pops and I here doing stuff and it's complicated enough already. I have the cans marked with black and white words of what each are and it seems to work.
Never tried premix fuel for the saws ..... Seems like a very expensive way to do things in the volume we go through it but I guess if it simplifies things and keeps a few pieces of machinery from being destroyed due to wrong fuel it's likely worth it .....
I had several pet rats as a kid and a bunch of them developed huge tumors. I have always been a little suspicious of tests on rodents.
True fuel doesn't produce fuel.
Lyondell-Basell and Phillips are the two companies that use to sell akaylate for the production of specialty fuels. VP is affiliated with L-B. I am not sure of Phillips is still in this market as they ceased selling race gas along time ago.
So are we thinking all the base alkylate fuels are made at the same plant? A guy could probably save a fortune buying whatever Tractor Supply sells and adding the Red Armor oil.
Mixing gasoline with diesel does not make diesel #1. It is a fine way to damage injection pumps and injectors though.
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