Can't start my 92cc saw
- Thread starter Bedford T
- Start date
-
- Tags
- ms660 stihl wont start
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Bump, did you get it running?
I was am still not ready to complete and I will come back and post.
i am still waiting on rings and tools to arrive. My rings came and they had to go back they were the wrong brand. Seems to be a slow process with me getting where and what i need. But, i feel good about where i am in this respect.
This is what i discovered. i ordered and received a pressure tester and was UNable to get a vacuum to hold or get it to hold pressure. After a while i discovered that if i kept pumping i could spray my solution over the various parts of the saw and still get results. i found a lot of leakage along one side of the cylinder at the base. So i feel like a low or missing carb pulse caused pumping problems with the fuel and my saw would not start. First carb leaked like a sieve. I wish I still had it after I got the pressure tester but I had tossed it by then.
On the matter of the scoring. It also appears that a chuck of metal came loose from the exhaust port area, from the edge where it transitions away from the slick cylinder walls to the rough interior of the port and that caused the scoring that was visible. i could not find any material missing from the rings or the piston. Both circlips were present. The crank has no play in it. The piston bearing was fine. i inspected the crankcase jug seat and there was no problem I could see where the jug will sit. i did find a bolt with threads that seem to be damaged, 3 or 4 threads from the end. i did not cross thread it. i ran a new bolt down the hole and it went in and out smoothly. Maybe i missed putting loctite on them. who knows. On the bolts i did not torque the jug when I installed it, in fact i did not use a torque wrench and i bet a thousand of you are saying so what. Well it might have prevented this. Apparently tight was not tight enough. i had never bolted on a cylinder.
i have also pressure tested the fuel tank and it held pressure and when I applied a vacuum it would quickly bleed off, so i know the fuel filter, vent, fuel lines and fuel tank and fuel cap are issue free. You may recall i replaced the impulse line along the way. When I am ready I will have a new prepared jug, piston, caber rings, base gasket, decomp valve and a tube of dirko. I have both sides of the saw bare so when I pressure test the saw after the top assembly I can see the seals and have better access to other potential leak points during the tests. The manifold was sound and affixed tightly to the cylinder intake port. After repair it will be interesting to see if any more leaks are found. And then the big question will it start. By then there certainly will not be a reason for it not to.
i will follow up when i get my rings and the remaining tools in hand. it does not seem to be happening very quick. one great thing once you have the correct tools you only need to protect them and my future projects will go much faster. The pressure tester sure can tell you a lot.
i am still waiting on rings and tools to arrive. My rings came and they had to go back they were the wrong brand. Seems to be a slow process with me getting where and what i need. But, i feel good about where i am in this respect.
This is what i discovered. i ordered and received a pressure tester and was UNable to get a vacuum to hold or get it to hold pressure. After a while i discovered that if i kept pumping i could spray my solution over the various parts of the saw and still get results. i found a lot of leakage along one side of the cylinder at the base. So i feel like a low or missing carb pulse caused pumping problems with the fuel and my saw would not start. First carb leaked like a sieve. I wish I still had it after I got the pressure tester but I had tossed it by then.
On the matter of the scoring. It also appears that a chuck of metal came loose from the exhaust port area, from the edge where it transitions away from the slick cylinder walls to the rough interior of the port and that caused the scoring that was visible. i could not find any material missing from the rings or the piston. Both circlips were present. The crank has no play in it. The piston bearing was fine. i inspected the crankcase jug seat and there was no problem I could see where the jug will sit. i did find a bolt with threads that seem to be damaged, 3 or 4 threads from the end. i did not cross thread it. i ran a new bolt down the hole and it went in and out smoothly. Maybe i missed putting loctite on them. who knows. On the bolts i did not torque the jug when I installed it, in fact i did not use a torque wrench and i bet a thousand of you are saying so what. Well it might have prevented this. Apparently tight was not tight enough. i had never bolted on a cylinder.
i have also pressure tested the fuel tank and it held pressure and when I applied a vacuum it would quickly bleed off, so i know the fuel filter, vent, fuel lines and fuel tank and fuel cap are issue free. You may recall i replaced the impulse line along the way. When I am ready I will have a new prepared jug, piston, caber rings, base gasket, decomp valve and a tube of dirko. I have both sides of the saw bare so when I pressure test the saw after the top assembly I can see the seals and have better access to other potential leak points during the tests. The manifold was sound and affixed tightly to the cylinder intake port. After repair it will be interesting to see if any more leaks are found. And then the big question will it start. By then there certainly will not be a reason for it not to.
i will follow up when i get my rings and the remaining tools in hand. it does not seem to be happening very quick. one great thing once you have the correct tools you only need to protect them and my future projects will go much faster. The pressure tester sure can tell you a lot.
Any idea if it's the cylinder base or the crankcase that is not flat?
Cylinder bolts don't intrude into the case so if you're thinking buggered threads allowed air to get in/escape then that's not it. Tight is tighter than you'd think for sure.
No I was just providing all the details. I am not thinking anything. It was leaking period.
And I don't have anything to add. I detailed everything in my follow up post. When I know more I will post it.
The leak was sure there. I can only assume it was the bolts not being tight. I will know more when I mount the new one. My tight and your tight likely are different. The better your grip the tighter you can make it. I have the solution you gave me on the way. Tight will then be tight enough
And I don't have anything to add. I detailed everything in my follow up post. When I know more I will post it.
The leak was sure there. I can only assume it was the bolts not being tight. I will know more when I mount the new one. My tight and your tight likely are different. The better your grip the tighter you can make it. I have the solution you gave me on the way. Tight will then be tight enough
jmssaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cylinder bolt holes on 1122's are always a problem it seems.
If it's a 066 or 064 that's been changed from m5 to m6 bolts you can't use the black 660 cylinder bolts unless you cut them off.
They are to long
If it's a 066 or 064 that's been changed from m5 to m6 bolts you can't use the black 660 cylinder bolts unless you cut them off.
They are to long
That's a good detail to know. Thanks for posting, I'll keep an eye on that condition.
jmssaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Many a cylinder bolts hole been stripped out with the black bolts.
When they switched to m6 in the flat top 066 the bolts aren't black and are about half as long.
So is it running or not?? Been a while, is there a video?
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)- Latest: sean donato
-
Fiskars Handle on Super Splitting Axe
- Latest: AmateurSawer
-
-
-
-
-