Carb adjustment question, for better starting

[jokers]

I hate to admit it, but I have it on good authority that the green cap 359 has a low speed carb orifice of about .019 while the 346 has a low speed orifice of .030, of course it is going to be harder to start. What anyone with one of these saws needs is for Stihltech to hack it for you, LOL. Or you could stumble on to a brand new pre-EPA Jred 2159W like I did yesterday. No stinkin' restricted carb for me!

Russ

 

[tony marks]

amen

 

[SpikeSupra]

I hate to admit it, but I have it on good authority that the green cap 359 has a low speed carb orifice of about .019 while the 346 has a low speed orifice of .030, of course it is going to be harder to start. What anyone with one of these saws needs is for Stihltech to hack it for you, LOL. Or you could stumble on to a brand new pre-EPA Jred 2159W like I did yesterday. No stinkin' restricted carb for me!

Russ

Husky is making the low speed settings very lean to meet emmisions. Backing the jet out might help, but not much, because even fully open the outlet hole is too small.
The simple solution is to keep the choke on for one, two or three extra pulls, after the hear the engine fire. Then once you turn it off, it'll be nicely primed and start up.

 

[StumpThumper]

Guys...I have a 359 WITHOUT the green gas cap. My saw does not have a cat-converter on it, I would not have bought it with a cat-coverter. The dealer had one from a while back that hadn't sold yet, and I jumped on it.

Glens...to follow up on your recent post, yes, I do get a hit after just a few pulls, and it IS enough to pop the decomp button out. At that point I attempt to start with no choke, but saw set to fast idle. I agree that at this point it should fire right up with another pull or two, but it takes probably 12-20 more. It doesn't make any sense...I will try this weekend with and also without re-applying the decomp button after the first pop (when I turn off choke and set to fast idle).

Also, glens...yes, the saw runs perfectly once going. Plenty of power, no hesitation, etc.

*** I really do think the answer will be to back the low speed screw out 1/8 of a turn...my guess is that is the culprit more than the re-applying the decomp button or not, but we'll see...

 

[trimmmed]

I had similar starting issues with mine(non green cap). Here's the sequence that works for me. One pull at full choke, then two pulls fast idle, should fire. If it coughs, I push the fast idle in and give another pull. I found, at least on mine, that I needed less choke not more. Have you pulled the plug when having these problems to see if it's wet?

 

[StumpThumper]

First, thanks everyone for all the responses, advice, and ideas. As promised, an update from this weekend:

(1) I checked the spark plug gap, and it was actually a tad too small. I widened it just a tiny bit to get it to 0.020".
(2) I removed the spark arrestor.
(3) The limiter cap on the low speed screw prevented me from turning it out 1/8 of a turn. I know that these can be defeated, but I didn't want to go there yet. I know the ears can be clipped off, but can I just pull the plastic cap alltogether?
(4) Fresh gas into the saw.
(5) After some trial and error, the approach that worked best was something that SpikeSupra suggested trying:
- Set full choke, push decomp button in
- 2 to 5 pulls and saw hits
- once saw hits, re-apply decomp button, and pull 3 more times (still with choke)
- then turn off choke, saw remains set to fast idle
- 1 or 2 more pulls and saw starts
*** The difference being those extra 3 pulls on full choke

So, this is definitely an improvement, starting in 5-10 pulls now. I think the last piece of the puzzle is that low speed screw needs to be turned out 1/8 turn. The cap on the screw is white plastic. Do I pull the platic cap, clip the ear, and then re-install the cap, or just remove the cap alltogether?