carb set up?

[glenwright]

Hi,
Just been given 2 chainsaws to add to my collection
I now have
Husky 281 xp
Husky 136
Partner 660
Partner 55
Partner electric
Makita

Partner 660 was seized, run without oil. I cleaned up the pot & piston, new ring, fired it up, revs fine just wont tick over, stops then its a bugger to start again.
there is three adjustment screws on carb
tick over screw is fully in

 

[thompson1600]

On most saws it is roughly one turn out from a lightly seated position. I can't find the Partner 660 in my book, but if you know what carb is on it perhaps I could find the basic setting from that.

Tom

 

[glenwright]

Hi Tom
I've tried adjusting out from seated and still no joy, I will check carb make and get back to you
Ta mate.

 

[Mange]

Is there a change in compression, when it gets hot?
I bet the one that is all the way in is for Idle.
When you try and start it does it Pop at all?
If you squirt some fuel in it What happends?

 

[glenwright]

Hi
compression seems fine
idle screw right in
other two screws back one turn from lightly seated.
no popping? could it be sucking to much air in

 

[Lawn Masters]

Try turning the hi and low mix screws out 1/8 turn more, then see what it does. you may need a new piston. I had a saw with low compression, it ran fine at full throttle, but would quit at idle no matter what I did to adjust it, until I replaced the piston ring. you may have too much leakage at the piston, allowing low end compression to become low enough that it wont run right.

 

[Mange]

Try and squirt some gas in the throat direct first.

 

[treestalker]

carb adjustments

I have a ms 340 stihl and the carbadjuster say set the low to 1/4 turn and the high to 3/4 turn but it starts at a 3 o clock position and ends at a 6 o clock (going counter clockwise) so is 3/4 of a turn the adjustment for the high? even though thats as far as it goes or is it more complicated? what should i adjust my carberator high and lows at?

 

[thompson1600]

Treestalker,

Your MS340 has limiter caps in there I would bet. We are talking about carbs without limiter caps installed. You screw them down until they seat lightly and close. Then back them off about 1 turn from there. Then the limiter caps are put back on to limit the amount of adjustment can be made from the basic setting. Personally I take the limiter caps off and don't put them on on my own saws, but that's not what's recommended. If you don't use a tachometer to set up the saw you may be better off with the limiter caps on so you don't over lean or over richen the saw.

Tom

 

[glenwright]

Hi Tom
been logging timber all day with my Husky 281.
thought I would give the Partner 660 another try at setting the carb, well what can I say, it started first time, tick over was ok and I even cut some wood. never touched the settings (strange)

 

[glenwright]

Partner 660 is same spec as husky 61

 

[Pioneer]

Glenwright, this sounds very much like what happened to a friends 2-stroke trike. It ran absolutely miserable after we had taken it out of storage, drained the tank and filled it with fresh mix. We decided to work on it the next day, but it ran perfectly fine then. We figured the new gas had melted the old gunk that was partly interfering with the jets. The same thing happened to a neighbor's snowblower this winter, old gas had fouled the jets and he couldn't get it started. Knowing now what had happened, I told him to drain the tank and then I put in a cup of naptha (Coleman fuel) to quickly melt the sludge in the carb. After a bit of cranking it started up and fart and spit for a while until the gunk dissolved. We filled the tank up with new gas and he was on his way.

 

[glenwright]

I dont think so, when I got the saw back it was seized up using straight petrol! and the tank was still full of the stuff. After working on the engine I drained off the neat gas and put in 50:1.

 

[Pioneer]

It doesn't take long for gas to go bad, especially in the summer months. The snowblower only sat with the gas in the tank for the summer and this was long enough for it to start gumming up, and it was a four-stroke with no oil mix. I don't know about your fuel over there, but here it seems to be a witch's brew of additives. If you leave a cup to evaporate, you have an evil looking film of sludge when the light stuff has gone. The only fuel I have seen evaporate cleanly with no residue is naphtha, but its generally too low of an octane (about 80) to be used in a some engines.

As for your saw, I guess it depends on how long it was sitting with that fuel in the tank, a good giveaway is a sour smell indicating that it has turned and is on its way to being put in your "bad fuel" container. I have had to use laquer thinner in a couple of my restored saws tanks to melt old fuel residue, it was that bad. BTW, do not do this in a plastic tank.

 

[glenwright]

never thought about straight petrol separating out, thanks.
I have a 4 stoke Honda outboard motor on a dive tender, last year I had to replace the carb. it was factory set. filled the tank and it started first time.
I left the fuel in the motor and never used it for a few months, when I come to use it could'nt get the thing to run. that must be the anwser.
I always thought that if you leave the tank full its stops condensation build up. But that must only apply to gas oil fuel.
Has anyone used an underwater chainsaw?
I dive a lake over here and its got standing trees underwater.
I made a wood burner 17 years ago and its still going strong. I'm always looking for different fuels to try.
Last year I dived a shipwreck in Scotland, its sitting on the sea bed in 20metres of water with a full cargo of coal! it burns a treat.

 

[njforestfire]

there is three adjustment screws on carb
tick over screw is fully in

tick over....are you referring to the idle screw? I think you are. Different lingo but same parts! LOL!

As far as the underwater chainsaw goes, the only one I have seen is a guy blowing bubbles while making a saw noise using a large handsaw.

Seriously though...I don't think you'll ever see one other than possibly an electric one at best (sealed up-very water tight-real well). There would have to be a tube to supply the air to the saw and the exhaust would have to be plumbed out to the surface to.

 

[glenwright]

you can get underwater chainsaws!
made by Stanley
Hydraulic tool, a hydraulic power pack on the surface, flow and return pipes down to the diver. The chainsaw has a hydraulic motor totally enclosed. I have seen one at the docks here in Liverpool.
They are supplied by a company in Canada.
never used one, a firm in Australia runs an underwater chainsaw training program