Carb tuning with a limited coil - tach or in the cut?

[sevensandeights]

Just got my Makita 6421 back together with an OEM 7900 P&C. Saw initially had an 84cc NWP P&C that torched the listing due to running lean from an air leak at the impulse nipple.

I tuned the carb with a tach for a tank and then tuned in the cut for a tank. I really don't hear much difference when I tune in the cut. Couldn't get it to 4 stroke in the cut so I could lean it out. Plug is a little dark some I'm on the rich side - not a bad thing for a brand new P&C though. I've watched a ton of videos and can hear the difference in the videos but can't with my saw.

Since the coil is limited, I was wondering why I should tune in the cut. Is the point of the coil to limit RPMs that would only be possible in a lean condition? I think I'm missing something here but I'm paranoid of another lean condition issue. Why can't I just set WOT RPM at 13k and be done?

 

[Ronaldo]

My opinion here and its just that, opinion. I think its best to tune in the wood (cut), take the high out so that it's rich enough it continues to 4 stroke and won't clean up, then take the screw in a quarter turn at a time until it quits burbling (4 stroking) when in the cut. You can then do some fine tuning and get it right where you want it, but I like to keep it a bit rich and safe. All this needs to be done when the saw is good and warmed up. If you tune in this manner there is no need for a tach or even knowing what the max factory rpm is.

 

[Jasent]

Tune in the cut. Tuning for max rpm may be leaving some power on the table. It might just want that extra fuel for running a load