I'm not sure that the flippy cap is vented. Assuming that's true, probably the reason the auto oiler doesn't work is because the oil cap needs to be the vented type on that saw.Love the fact that the new flippy caps fit on this old saw
2100CD runs but surges/dies in the cut
- Thread starter chunez
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2100, oil cap should be of the vented variety- you can run what you like on the fuel- it vents into the air box.
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Buy more 1100/2100/2101 285/298 type saws- never be short of parts then
Some things from other CD's like the 380/480 swap into 2100's- but new parts are a bit like Unicorn horns.
Whip the muffler off and make sure the rubber oil lines are still there and connected.
Make sure the four vent holes in the cap are not plugged. I think they are like 0.035".
If you run the saw without the bar on, does any oil come out? If it does, are there bubbles as well? If bubbles, there is an air leak on the suction side of the pump. Also check that the oil filter/screen on the end of the pickup tube is not plugged.
.... "snapped the pull cord on the last start"...
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I understand completely. No decomp valve on these saws, they are very hard to pull start. I recently worked on one and relied on the owner's son to start it. He was very strong (6-5 and 260 lb.). They both love the saw and it now runs fine. Chunez may have to maintain his weight training to feel comfortable starting it.
These saws are beasts. Perhaps the Swedes designed them for Dolph Lundgren to start them:
Just MHO.
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I understand completely. No decomp valve on these saws, they are very hard to pull start. I recently worked on one and relied on the owner's son to start it. He was very strong (6-5 and 260 lb.). They both love the saw and it now runs fine. Chunez may have to maintain his weight training to feel comfortable starting it.
These saws are beasts. Perhaps the Swedes designed them for Dolph Lundgren to start them:
Just MHO.
I had the muffler off when swapping my rim to 3/8-8 and one line was unhooked which explains why it pissed bar oil everywhere when sitting. I reconnected it before taking the saw out to tune it but the line went on very loose and did not have any metal clamps on it. What are people using for replacement lines/clamps on these?Buy more 1100/2100/2101 285/298 type saws- never be short of parts then
Some things from other CD's like the 380/480 swap into 2100's- but new parts are a bit like Unicorn horns.
Whip the muffler off and make sure the rubber oil lines are still there and connected.
View attachment 1194172
You could do a field fix and just wrap a piece of solid wire around it and twist. Or you could find the OEM clamp 501606801. Or you could go to an auto parts or hardware store and look for a vacuum line clamp or plumbing clamp.
Isn't that a special line that has a molded in seal? I guess some fuel lines also have an integral seal - worth a try.
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Many a small 4 stroke engine uses similar wire or flat band clamps on the flexable fuel lines of the delivery system.
They are easily found.
Bob, I found a box of these to be very helpful on all lines, they can be sourced just about any where fuel line is stocked, mine are made of stainless steel as I use many of them on salt water marine engines, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...47c94db4e3998518ba50fdcfe45&afSmartRedirect=n
Even better! Made in Sweden.
