Mike mandry
ArboristSite Guru
Hello everyone. Let me first say that I really enjoy, and have learned a lot from this site.
I have several older saws (mostly old homelites XL-12's, SEZ'S & etc...) that I mainly use for firewood & the ocasional "help thy neighbor" clean up after the storm job, and the "Hey Mike, can you take this tree out for me??"
My question concerns carb tuning. Mainly the hi side.
I have never lean siezed (or damaged) any 2 stroke so I must be doing something right??
I usually just do it by "Ear" I will lean it out till it really screams, yet still pulls under full load. Then I will open it up to just before the point where it starts to bog/load up - maybee a little leaner & leave it there. If I still can't seem to get it right, then I reach for a carb kit.
I run synthetic @ 32:1 with 89, or 93. I always cut with sharp chain & always clean the saw after I use it. Whether I have been out all day or 20 min.
I have never torn one up yet.
Any advice/feedback appreciated.
Thanks
I have several older saws (mostly old homelites XL-12's, SEZ'S & etc...) that I mainly use for firewood & the ocasional "help thy neighbor" clean up after the storm job, and the "Hey Mike, can you take this tree out for me??"
My question concerns carb tuning. Mainly the hi side.
I have never lean siezed (or damaged) any 2 stroke so I must be doing something right??
I usually just do it by "Ear" I will lean it out till it really screams, yet still pulls under full load. Then I will open it up to just before the point where it starts to bog/load up - maybee a little leaner & leave it there. If I still can't seem to get it right, then I reach for a carb kit.
I run synthetic @ 32:1 with 89, or 93. I always cut with sharp chain & always clean the saw after I use it. Whether I have been out all day or 20 min.
I have never torn one up yet.
Any advice/feedback appreciated.
Thanks
