Eric Sorensen in a Stihl Logging Tape(?) said bore cutting (plunging the face, to eliminate/punch out center hinge, center mast?) as developed by loggers to reduce barber chairing and that it preserved more valuable, widest lumber, both by reducing splitting forces. The technique removed the stiffest wood, leaving more outer, younger flexible fibres to bend and flex. Dent reports using it on forward head leaners. This mechanical examination fits most tasks i see it set too.
As always, i think these examinations are useful even if you plan never, or will never use them, perhaps even more. Perhaps because they are too complicated, unnecessary, you may say KISS etc. Even more reason to study, so that you know that you are not invoking these forces with saw at time of visit, or naaturee has done so preeviously in deformity/decay to effect the same pattern of mechanical instructions to the machine of the hinge. Rotted out hinge material in the center of the hinge is mechanicaly akin to you removing the same material with your saw. A decayed face on one side of a hinge can invoke a step dutchman as that face gives and the other slams; if that happens; will it help or hurt your aim to target?
iheard that somone read, that MikeMaas reports that DocShigo says that center wood is no diffrent in strength/flexability. So this technique is void in positive contribution to an aim and should be dispensed?
My observations is that Center punching the hinge does seem to fit the mechanix of removing the stiffest wood imagery/model. But i must echo, for leans with the hinge (i 'll throw in slight back leans, after 11o'clock to Dent's forward lean and have used it like that) But, when dealing with a side leaner, and trying to even use a triangular hinge pattern to the off side of the lean, in the most leverage position to oppose the OffSideLean and usher to the CenterHingeFocal; the leverage of the triangular hinge pattern is reduced i think. Therefore it grants less control in that situation of the center mast being punched out of the hinge, and probably why Dent recomended for forward leaners. i think that mechanically the diffrence is that with the center gone the resistance to flexing towards off side lean is lessened, for the amount of fibres that would have to be forced bending over other fibres is lessened. i beleive that undermines the power of the triangular pattern to the control side against the lean as i understand it, for that stacked resistance of bending/stretching over more and more fibres is how i see that it works. for that is how i see that all hinging works till fibre failure.
i say OffSide in hinging (from Dent terms)as pulls across (not with) the hinge (to either side of face), OffSideLean would be a side leaner in attitude to desired path of hinge, it would therfore take an equivalent pull with fibre (high rope or hinge low) to balance to the opposing OffSide anything that overwhelmed the simple folding of hinge to it's CenterFocal (gunned from corners). Opting to express that necessary balancing pull low using hinge fibre is one way. High leveraged pull to balance pull of lean can be used instead or in tandem with the hinge pattern. The side hinge pull of triangle hinge is mostly passive in the upper dramatics i try to draw from it (active in lower range from shear numbers of threads). By passive i mean it only pulls back what is put upon it till it fails; it doesnt let you know it's strength till then, the gentleman giant. Like, tie a line to a tree pull 5#, tree pull back 5#; 500? that big s.o.b. can match that too. The line pull is an active pull, it pulls 300, it has 300 to put in to the deal; but it can pull from higher leverage point! Being passive, and self setting, within its power range, the OffSide triangle hinge pattern; is less likely to over or under pull a spar center, over a wider range, and is saw adjusted. Pull line can be metered some adjustment by another partyt clear of the works, but not as long and pervasive as hinge pattern.
Besides pulling we can lift the extra weight into the face that overwhelms the simple folding of the hinge. We can put a wedge from the backside or a step from the front. Pulling (line, hinge) is done to the opposite side across the hinge of the OffSideLean, to pull the balance of weight CenterFocal, looking for balance to the face. Lifting is done from the LeanSide, to the same even balance into the face. Using a wedge from back is active,and short lived, most drama from loding hinge like spring with it. Step lift (dutchman face interuption) is passive, yet can be dangerous and un prescribed) Most examinations of Dutchys should teach how not to make and why, for most are accidentally made daily. It is passive and acted upon to show it's stuff by the faces slamming, more force in, more force out, less predictability without good understanding of this, the most powerful of the group most of the time........ with the less setup/employment time! Both of these steps/lifts end up invoking the natural sleeping giant on the other side of the hinge,the aforementioned hing patterning to pull to the desired side, as the step pushes. The 'step' strategies do this forcing the hinge to rip on their side first, thereby gaining pull from the hinge pattern as they push. Indeed the SwingDutchy, does this very purposefully, cuz ya start it like that with the precuts.
i think that in expressing angles (that are so determinate in each examination), C.o.B. etc., it is sometimes easy to express a spar standing straight as 12o'clock, from there leaning slightly towards face at 1o'clock. The CenterFocal of face as North. Heights in feet. To give all 3 dimensions of perspective and determination. That works pretty well in both hemispheres; but usually am or pm has to be fairly determined by the BigBadModerator.
Ooooooo i think to answer my own question that the decayed face that invoked a step dutchy might be ok on the OffSide of the lean, so the step formed on the heavy side woud push to the offside (decay in face side). If the face decay, was only on the Lean side, tree would pull that way, and as decayed face under it gave, the step formed by the other face would add to the pull of the lean, and further guide it from target.
Whereby, Iff the rot is in the face on one side, you wouldn't waant it to be under the Leaning side, for it is a push force. Hinge is exact opposite, it is a pull force, in choosing loss of strength/flexability in the hinge, you would rather the lean side be weak, so the good fibre could pull across the face to home (CenterFocal of hinge).
If you cut a face and have a lean and nature or saw has voided these precepts; i beleive you might have a new puzzle to contend with,as things are stacking against you.
So that is why i think it is all the same, and should be looked at well; especially if you never want to use it.
And even to the extension of; that in never doing it, understanding it when loss of strength/flexability by any factor, and its palcement in the total arraingement whether caused by chainsaw or not (natural rot etc. performing same selection of mechanics without your saw's consent); places you with handling a dutchman totally in experienced.
For, climbing and rigging where the mass and leverage are not so immense, some 'Dutching' is safer on that scale. ie. swing dutchman to the side. Things learned here, would directly link back to the faster slamming and power of felling, adjusted to scale, cuz it's all exactly the same but diffrent!
Or something like that......
As always, i think these examinations are useful even if you plan never, or will never use them, perhaps even more. Perhaps because they are too complicated, unnecessary, you may say KISS etc. Even more reason to study, so that you know that you are not invoking these forces with saw at time of visit, or naaturee has done so preeviously in deformity/decay to effect the same pattern of mechanical instructions to the machine of the hinge. Rotted out hinge material in the center of the hinge is mechanicaly akin to you removing the same material with your saw. A decayed face on one side of a hinge can invoke a step dutchman as that face gives and the other slams; if that happens; will it help or hurt your aim to target?
iheard that somone read, that MikeMaas reports that DocShigo says that center wood is no diffrent in strength/flexability. So this technique is void in positive contribution to an aim and should be dispensed?
My observations is that Center punching the hinge does seem to fit the mechanix of removing the stiffest wood imagery/model. But i must echo, for leans with the hinge (i 'll throw in slight back leans, after 11o'clock to Dent's forward lean and have used it like that) But, when dealing with a side leaner, and trying to even use a triangular hinge pattern to the off side of the lean, in the most leverage position to oppose the OffSideLean and usher to the CenterHingeFocal; the leverage of the triangular hinge pattern is reduced i think. Therefore it grants less control in that situation of the center mast being punched out of the hinge, and probably why Dent recomended for forward leaners. i think that mechanically the diffrence is that with the center gone the resistance to flexing towards off side lean is lessened, for the amount of fibres that would have to be forced bending over other fibres is lessened. i beleive that undermines the power of the triangular pattern to the control side against the lean as i understand it, for that stacked resistance of bending/stretching over more and more fibres is how i see that it works. for that is how i see that all hinging works till fibre failure.
i say OffSide in hinging (from Dent terms)as pulls across (not with) the hinge (to either side of face), OffSideLean would be a side leaner in attitude to desired path of hinge, it would therfore take an equivalent pull with fibre (high rope or hinge low) to balance to the opposing OffSide anything that overwhelmed the simple folding of hinge to it's CenterFocal (gunned from corners). Opting to express that necessary balancing pull low using hinge fibre is one way. High leveraged pull to balance pull of lean can be used instead or in tandem with the hinge pattern. The side hinge pull of triangle hinge is mostly passive in the upper dramatics i try to draw from it (active in lower range from shear numbers of threads). By passive i mean it only pulls back what is put upon it till it fails; it doesnt let you know it's strength till then, the gentleman giant. Like, tie a line to a tree pull 5#, tree pull back 5#; 500? that big s.o.b. can match that too. The line pull is an active pull, it pulls 300, it has 300 to put in to the deal; but it can pull from higher leverage point! Being passive, and self setting, within its power range, the OffSide triangle hinge pattern; is less likely to over or under pull a spar center, over a wider range, and is saw adjusted. Pull line can be metered some adjustment by another partyt clear of the works, but not as long and pervasive as hinge pattern.
Besides pulling we can lift the extra weight into the face that overwhelms the simple folding of the hinge. We can put a wedge from the backside or a step from the front. Pulling (line, hinge) is done to the opposite side across the hinge of the OffSideLean, to pull the balance of weight CenterFocal, looking for balance to the face. Lifting is done from the LeanSide, to the same even balance into the face. Using a wedge from back is active,and short lived, most drama from loding hinge like spring with it. Step lift (dutchman face interuption) is passive, yet can be dangerous and un prescribed) Most examinations of Dutchys should teach how not to make and why, for most are accidentally made daily. It is passive and acted upon to show it's stuff by the faces slamming, more force in, more force out, less predictability without good understanding of this, the most powerful of the group most of the time........ with the less setup/employment time! Both of these steps/lifts end up invoking the natural sleeping giant on the other side of the hinge,the aforementioned hing patterning to pull to the desired side, as the step pushes. The 'step' strategies do this forcing the hinge to rip on their side first, thereby gaining pull from the hinge pattern as they push. Indeed the SwingDutchy, does this very purposefully, cuz ya start it like that with the precuts.
i think that in expressing angles (that are so determinate in each examination), C.o.B. etc., it is sometimes easy to express a spar standing straight as 12o'clock, from there leaning slightly towards face at 1o'clock. The CenterFocal of face as North. Heights in feet. To give all 3 dimensions of perspective and determination. That works pretty well in both hemispheres; but usually am or pm has to be fairly determined by the BigBadModerator.
Ooooooo i think to answer my own question that the decayed face that invoked a step dutchy might be ok on the OffSide of the lean, so the step formed on the heavy side woud push to the offside (decay in face side). If the face decay, was only on the Lean side, tree would pull that way, and as decayed face under it gave, the step formed by the other face would add to the pull of the lean, and further guide it from target.
Whereby, Iff the rot is in the face on one side, you wouldn't waant it to be under the Leaning side, for it is a push force. Hinge is exact opposite, it is a pull force, in choosing loss of strength/flexability in the hinge, you would rather the lean side be weak, so the good fibre could pull across the face to home (CenterFocal of hinge).
If you cut a face and have a lean and nature or saw has voided these precepts; i beleive you might have a new puzzle to contend with,as things are stacking against you.
So that is why i think it is all the same, and should be looked at well; especially if you never want to use it.
And even to the extension of; that in never doing it, understanding it when loss of strength/flexability by any factor, and its palcement in the total arraingement whether caused by chainsaw or not (natural rot etc. performing same selection of mechanics without your saw's consent); places you with handling a dutchman totally in experienced.
For, climbing and rigging where the mass and leverage are not so immense, some 'Dutching' is safer on that scale. ie. swing dutchman to the side. Things learned here, would directly link back to the faster slamming and power of felling, adjusted to scale, cuz it's all exactly the same but diffrent!
Or something like that......
