Husky 346 NE Echo 501

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Measured that little pipe on that open jungle muffler. Just 1/2” but for stock saw seems to flow just fine.

Trying to get away from the cover edge burn the etech muffler was doing with top outlet getting exhaust out. Dont know how they thought that cat crap was a good thing making them run hotter.

Put the newer 23RS on it. For a bit they called it 23RS Pro. Now 23RS is that.

She reminds me of any other NE 346 stock imho.

Also have a NE 346 recoil decal on order to have saved and a oem orange clutch cover with decal.
 

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Measured that little pipe on that open jungle muffler. Just 1/2” but for stock saw seems to flow just fine.

Trying to get away from the cover edge burn the etech muffler was doing with top outlet getting exhaust out. Dont know how they thought that cat crap was a good thing making them run hotter.

Put the newer 23RS on it. For a bit they called it 23RS Pro. Now 23RS is that.

She reminds me of any other NE 346 stock imho.

Also have a NE 346 recoil decal on order to have saved and a oem orange clutch cover with decal.
Mod the 346 muffler as well. I'd you are going to do a comparison everything should be equal.
 
Measured that little pipe on that open jungle muffler. Just 1/2” but for stock saw seems to flow just fine.

Trying to get away from the cover edge burn the etech muffler was doing with top outlet getting exhaust out. Dont know how they thought that cat crap was a good thing making them run hotter.

Put the newer 23RS on it. For a bit they called it 23RS Pro. Now 23RS is that.

She reminds me of any other NE 346 stock imho.

Also have a NE 346 recoil decal on order to have saved and a oem orange clutch cover with decal.
Do you prefer the 23RS or the C33? I generally run 23RS in .325, nothing else I've used comes close for speed. I find it also holds an edge nice and resharpens well
 
Do you prefer the 23RS or the C33? I generally run 23RS in .325, nothing else I've used comes close for speed. I find it also holds an edge nice and resharpens well
I always used older 23RS not the new stuff. Then switched to LPX and then LGX in 325 when it came out.
But this new 23RS aka also was called 23RS pro in past. Is 050 at top of drive links.

So it is narrower kerf top cutter over the new husky c33 full chisel that just came out.

C33 is stepped down from 058.

Here is top of cutters measured. The RS had been filed back some so tried to take measurements in same spot. Then side by side.

Retail they are same dang cost so buy what you like. I just bought 2 loops to try.
 

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I always used older 23RS not the new stuff. Then switched to LPX and then LGX in 325 when it came out.
But this new 23RS aka also was called 23RS pro in past. Is 050 at top of drive links.

So it is narrower kerf top cutter over the new husky c33 full chisel that just came out.

C33 is stepped down from 058.

Here is top of cutters measured. The RS had been filed back some so tried to take measurements in same spot. Then side by side.

Retail they are same dang cost so buy what you like. I just bought 2 loops to try.
In the past my preference in .325 chain was Stihl RS. Nothing was close.
With that said I have been very impressed with the newer Husky 3/8" chain. So much so that if I were using 325 I would give the Husky stuff a try.
 
In the past my preference in .325 chain was Stihl RS. Nothing was close.
With that said I have been very impressed with the newer Husky 3/8" chain. So much so that if I were using 325 I would give the Husky stuff a try.
I just bought 2 loops of C83 to try, currently using RS and EXL, both .050. Right now I prefer the RS in 3/8, C83 does look promising however
 
I just bought 2 loops of C83 to try, currently using RS and EXL, both .050. Right now I prefer the RS in 3/8, C83 does look promising however
I hear good things on C83 out of the box.

But almost impossible to file back the way they come out of box without using a couple different file types.

Then just normal round filed chain again if just use round file.
 
I hear good things on C83 out of the box.

But almost impossible to file back the way they come out of box without using a couple different file types.

Then just normal round filed chain again if just use round file.
The Husky roller guides do a good job of approximating the factory grind. Not quite as good, but close.
 
Dan Henry back in the day ordered 4-5 346xpG and they all came in with orange clutch covers. Here is the one he sent me. First 3 pics.

I just got this oem cover from a dealer. Got a little cheaper as it was a blem from taking a hit in shipping way back we guess. ;)
 

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The results are really not that surprising on cut times. The 501p ain't no joke. I bought one a couple of years ago from a guy that buys home depot stuff that has been returned. It had never had gas or oil in it. I bought it dirt cheap and planned on flipping it but I like the little saw. I have a jonsered that is the same as an early 550 husky, and a new 261c to compare it to.

After pulling the limiter caps and tuning the 501 properly it runs right with the jonsered and is just a touch behind the 261. I also pulled the tube out of the muffler but didn't do anything else to it. They may be old tech, but they are good runners for sure

Back in the day when 346s were current saws they either got love or hate on here. I have owned several of them over the years and never saw anything special about them. Just my 2 cents.
 
I bought a cs500p the predecessor to the cs501p and it runs along with my other 50cc saws. I did open the muffler a little when I got it. Now I am thinking about getting a cs501p and see how it preforms.
I bought a 500p several years ago. It ran ok, pulling the limiter caps and tuning it correctly helped it some. I did a simple muffler mod, can't remember exactly what I did but it helped as well. The 501s are noticeably stronger though. Nothing against the 500 at all, they are good running 50cc saws. The 501s (or at least the one I have anyway) just run a whole lot better
 
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