Chain brake position for chainsaw storage ?

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I bought a new MS 261 CM two weeks ago and it says the same thing on page 41. I also was reading the English version of the new MS 500i owners manual and it states the same thing. The first thing I thought was I've been doing it wrong all these years. First time I had seen it.


Probably just covering their arses on every level possible! Maybe it should be in fine print, though, to save ink and tree-pulp.
 
I must ask the Knower of All Things Chains: Tongue -in-cheek all the way, but I can't tell which side of the argument you are spoofing.
Just stating that STIHL takes it seriously enough to put it in all of their user manuals, and has been doing so for some time.

Easy to dismiss it as a silly, overprotective act, or unfounded rumor. I have no evidence to counter the 'I have never done it and never had any problems' guys. I also don't have the evidence to show that it really happens, or how often. STIHL does an incredible amount of failure analysis as part of their engineering and warranty work: most that I have seen focuses on pistons and cylinders. But I don't have access to all of it or to their service bulletins.

Leads me to think that it can / could / does happen, although, not to the extent of fuel failures. I sidestep the issue by not running my chains stupid tight, and by regular removal for cleaning at the end of most cutting. Could be more of an issue for guys who run a single chain and never remove it from their saw until it is time to replace?

Knower of All Things Chains

Might 'stretch' the chains prematurely too!

Philbert
 
I’m not being a smart arse, just a guy with 50 plus saws, that retired from a fourth generation tree business. Why do you loosen the bar nuts? If I did that, by the time I finished, it would be time to tighten them back up. To me, it’s the exact same thing as loosening all of your lug nuts on your wheels every night?
Thinking about it more, I think I remember reading somewhere around here to do this for the plastic cased saws before long term storage so the bar studs do not pull through the plastic over time.

I could probably stop doing this with the Mg case saws... But I also only loosen them when the saws will sit for a few months, not when I am using them throughout the week. I am a seasonal cutter.
 
You people over think EVERYTHING! Lift up on the chain, WITH THE SAW NOT RUNNING OF COURSE, and if you can see the bottom of 3 or 4 drivelinks, that's about right for tightness. More than that and its too loose, less and its too tight. As far as loosening this, relaxing that, youre all being OCD!
It would take me an hour at the end of each day to do all the crap yall do to your saws before quitting. Like the .gif Ive seen of the lady, AINT NOBODY GOT TIME FO DAT!
 
A correctly tensioned chain thats been adjusted when chain is warm for a sprocket nose bar which should be tighter than that of a hardnose bar with a 20"-36"b/c will definitely put stress on crank, seals, bearings & races when it contracts. Now how much stress this is and what damage can be done is a big unknown (to me). Don't forget a chain tensioner just pushes the bar forward, its those big case supported bar nuts/studs that hold the chain tension. I've 'heard' of cranks breaking, air leaks developing, and possible chain stretch which is bad for the whole drive system as it changes pitch. I always release tension after a days use if bar is remaining on saw. I believe its good practice and don't believe multiple OEM's would advise it, without reason they sell millions of units & have the data to back up their advice. I do leave my pole saws constantly done up and sometimes top handles but they are small bars and I make sure the chain is not too tight, these small chains and lengths won't create the tension a 36" .403 will. But for the US guys running big bars on small power heads I'd show a little caution. When a PTO side seal leaks or bearing blows, do we ever find out the exact reason why...
 
A correctly tensioned chain thats been adjusted when chain is warm for a sprocket nose bar which should be tighter than that of a hardnose bar with a 20"-36"b/c will definitely put stress on crank, seals, bearings & races when it contracts. Now how much stress this is and what damage can be done is a big unknown (to me). Don't forget a chain tensioner just pushes the bar forward, its those big case supported bar nuts/studs that hold the chain tension. I've 'heard' of cranks breaking, air leaks developing, and possible chain stretch which is bad for the whole drive system as it changes pitch. I always release tension after a days use if bar is remaining on saw. I believe its good practice and don't believe multiple OEM's would advise it, without reason they sell millions of units & have the data to back up their advice. I do leave my pole saws constantly done up and sometimes top handles but they are small bars and I make sure the chain is not too tight, these small chains and lengths won't create the tension a 36" .403 will. But for the US guys running big bars on small power heads I'd show a little caution. When a PTO side seal leaks or bearing blows, do we ever find out the exact reason why...
Complete nonsense.
I've hung saws bad enough to kill the engine due to chain tension many times, & have never lost a seal or bearing. On top of that, your chain shouldn't be getting hot enough to have to tighten it in the midst of work, unless it's new. I run 32" bars for the most part. Once a chain is stretched, very little adjustment, if any is needed from day-to-day. I keep my chain wrapped around the handlebar when the saw is not in use. by rolling the chain off (& onto) of the bar sprocket I never have to mess with anything. If I can roll a properly tensioned chain, hot or cold, onto & off of a bar, then the PTO bearing & seal aren't suffering at all..
Chainsaws are tough.
 
It’s always interesting to look back and see how far you’ve come.

From this to now running my own engine repair business, starting a YouTube channel that has started to pay financially, being constantly offered a job as a mechanic at one of the largest stihl shop in Western Australia whenever I go in, working o. repairing, restoring and rebuilding a over a dozen saws from a private collection for the owner of said local stihl shop who now displays them on shelves in his office.

I wouldn’t be doing it if it wasn’t for a very select few who have mentored and taught freely what they know. Notably @trains someone who I’m honoured to call a friend and mentor and Jerry too @pioneerguy600 who I regard in the same way.

Thank you guys and to any others who have helped me out along the way on here build the foundation I have. I’ve still got a lot to learn, but I’m getting there.

If anyone is interested, leave the brake off ;)
 
It’s always interesting to look back and see how far you’ve come.

From this to now running my own engine repair business, starting a YouTube channel that has started to pay financially, being constantly offered a job as a mechanic at one of the largest stihl shop in Western Australia whenever I go in, working o. repairing, restoring and rebuilding a over a dozen saws from a private collection for the owner of said local stihl shop who now displays them on shelves in his office.

I wouldn’t be doing it if it wasn’t for a very select few who have mentored and taught freely what they know. Notably @trains someone who I’m honoured to call a friend and mentor and Jerry too @pioneerguy600 who I regard in the same way.

Thank you guys and to any others who have helped me out along the way on here build the foundation I have. I’ve still got a lot to learn, but I’m getting there.

If anyone is interested, leave the brake off ;)
Only if its parked on flat ground, don`t want it to roll away.;)
 
Thanks for the mention, Tom. From our very first convos, I could tell you had a genuine interest in learning to become a mechanic and not someone looking to become a parts changer, much difference between the two. You genuinely wanted to know what made things go , what actually caused certain issues and how to prevent those from reoccurring. These days that has become a rare type of person , most now only want to see a video on how to and then become an instant expert on all topics, I am no expert by any means but have spent the better part of my lifetime wrenching on all machines that come my way, big and small. Making and adapting became essential for me early on as there was no internet to make finding parts so much easier so myself and many I worked with had a need to make our own or adapt a part of similar design to keep machines running, a stopped machine makes no money but can cost the owner plenty idle. You have come a long way in a short period of time and that is due to you wanting to and dedicating your attention to detail and already having the hands on experiences from previous enterprises. I was always more than happy to share anything I could to help you on your way, good on you for following through.
 
Always leave mine off. On a similar note. A friend was visiting my farm in WV. I said I was going up to the trailer and get my saw. He said just use mine. His truck was 5 feet away, the trailer was 300 yards at the other end of the field. Made one cut, killed it, and said Mike your chain is falling off. He said, Oh, my brother said you always have to loosen the chain when you are done running it. If not you will pull the bearings out of it. I asked how many saws his brother had. Answer, 1. I asked what his brother did for a living. He said printer. I figure that's why some guys go threw so many bars. If they keep the chain so tight they can pull the bearings out, they have to be eating bars. I have 50+ saws and never loosen the chains for storage. Do you loosen your chains at the end of every day?
yes!
 
Thanks for the mention, Tom. From our very first convos, I could tell you had a genuine interest in learning to become a mechanic and not someone looking to become a parts changer, much difference between the two. You genuinely wanted to know what made things go , what actually caused certain issues and how to prevent those from reoccurring. These days that has become a rare type of person , most now only want to see a video on how to and then become an instant expert on all topics, I am no expert by any means but have spent the better part of my lifetime wrenching on all machines that come my way, big and small. Making and adapting became essential for me early on as there was no internet to make finding parts so much easier so myself and many I worked with had a need to make our own or adapt a part of similar design to keep machines running, a stopped machine makes no money but can cost the owner plenty idle. You have come a long way in a short period of time and that is due to you wanting to and dedicating your attention to detail and already having the hands on experiences from previous enterprises. I was always more than happy to share anything I could to help you on your way, good on you for following through.
I think Pioneerguy600 summed it up quite well.
 
Thanks for the mention, Tom. From our very first convos, I could tell you had a genuine interest in learning to become a mechanic and not someone looking to become a parts changer, much difference between the two. You genuinely wanted to know what made things go , what actually caused certain issues and how to prevent those from reoccurring. These days that has become a rare type of person , most now only want to see a video on how to and then become an instant expert on all topics, I am no expert by any means but have spent the better part of my lifetime wrenching on all machines that come my way, big and small. Making and adapting became essential for me early on as there was no internet to make finding parts so much easier so myself and many I worked with had a need to make our own or adapt a part of similar design to keep machines running, a stopped machine makes no money but can cost the owner plenty idle. You have come a long way in a short period of time and that is due to you wanting to and dedicating your attention to detail and already having the hands on experiences from previous enterprises. I was always more than happy to share anything I could to help you on your way, good on you for following through.
Thanks Jerry, it means a lot to hear it and is very appreciated mate.
 

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