Chain Breakers and Spinners:

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Lewis Brander

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Hello to all. Mind you I'm no pro, but am thinking of getting some sort of chain breaker and spinner for occasional use. I was looking at Bailey's vice-grip type breaker and spinner and was wondering what they were like. Anyone ever use them and are they any good? A local dealer list them, but doesn't have one to look at, but can order them, but Bailey's price is cheaper. Probably would be better to get the regular breaker and spinner they also have, but for what use I would use it for, can't see the expence for now. I usually can separate my chains and using new presets, usually peen them back togerhter. So what's your opinion of them, if you've use the vice-grip type. Thanks. Lewis.
 
With the price of Stihl chain I am thinking of the same...might be worth investing into. Is it worth it or just go with the bench type sold by Jeff Sikkema even if I am only an occasional user?

Here are his prices: Chain tools- Breaker $49.95 and Spinner $45.95 complete with all accessories.
 
I have an Oregon spinner I got from e-bay,cheap.On the 1/2" chain,however,I peen them closed.I made a series of small punches that form the rivet heads very nicely.Now if I could just remember where they are at. :rolleyes: I have found that I can get loops,ready made up,when on sale from Baileys,cheaper than I can buy the bulk chain.
 
I use one, its not the best tool out there, especially since the thing requires constant pressure when spinning chains. I'd think that the design of a pair of vise grips would be better where it closes, and locks at the preset tension. Its also a pain in the rear to break chains with, though it does work. I hope this helps. The bench mounted setup is more durable and would probably last longer and work better for anyone using it often.
 
The breaker is not so complicated, a good punch and base make a good breaking system, I like the bench mounted type because all the parts stay together and it is always ready to use. For joining I prefer a bench mounted spinner, more control and a smoother finish to the tie strap. I have never used a portable vise grip type spinner. I have the bench mounted breaker and spinner from Oregon. Worth the few extra $$$ in my opinion.
 
Thanks for the replies:

Well Guys, thanks for the repoies. Was just curious to know what the various opinions were on the vice-grip style breaker/spinner. I suppose it has its place, but sounds like the bench style would be worth the extra money. So it looks like the bench mounted system for me. Everyone take care and Thanks. Lewis.
 
It's like Oldsaw said, they work but it's a struggle. They were initially developed for people running Alaskan mills with double ended bars and powerheads. It was way quicker to change a chain by breaking it, and spinning a new one on. Anymore with the price of pre-packaged loops, you either have to buy at least 100' reels, or be dealing with odd sized loops to make a spinner and breaker pay for themselves.

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Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies
 
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Chain Loops:

Hello Grande Dog. My problem is I do run across some odd size bar and chain combo's and sizes on these old saws. I don't make up a lot of chains, but get into repairing them or making up a chain, ocasionally for them. With all the suppliers out there, I can usually order any size loop of what ever chain I need if it's available (.325, .375, .404). The problem is getting the odd chain sizes like 7/16, 9/16, 3/4 and sometimes 1/2). Usually its easier to convert those sizes to more common chain sizes used today. If I do there's no problem if the right chain gauge andsprockets are available, etc. I just order or have made up the loops I need. But I do run into instances where I would like to keep the original chain on a saw and need to shorten, or repair it. I usually get by by breaking the chain with and punch and reassembling it by peening it back together. I don't use the saws that much, but worry that the chain could come apart or break. So I got to thinking that the vice-grip style breaker/spinner might work a bit better for what I would use it for and ease my mind a bit. Can't really see, for what I need, the expence of a regular breaker/spinner set up. I'll have to check with one of the local saw shops here and see if I can arrange to have them repair my chains, if I or they have the links, at a nominal cost. One dealer here, I talked to about repairing a chain I needed shortened (a common 3/8 chain, that was brand new), basicly said he didn't know if he had the links. Crap, bottom line was I didn't buy the chain from him, so he didn't want to bother with it or wanted me to buy a shorter chain from him instead. So I may contact the other dealer, who is farther out of town and see if he'll work with me. So there's where I am. Thanks for everyone's input. Take care. Lewis.
 
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Al Smith said:
...I have found that I can get loops,ready made up,when on sale from Baileys,cheaper than I can buy the bulk chain.

That's enough reason for me...will just buy ready made, I only use a little anyway.
 
anyone using a fair amount of chain should invest in a breaker and spinner. buying chain by the roll is far less expensive then by the loop.
figure out how many chains of the size you use are in a roll. add together the cost of that many chains and compare it to the cost of the roll.
putting the chain together is easy. count the number of drive links you need off the roll, break it and spin it together. even a caveman can do it. lol
i took a board approx. 8 foot long and drove 3 finishing nails on one end. i put the 3 differant size chain i normally use(3/8,.325 and 404)on the board(first drive link on one nail)and counted out the drive links marking every 10th one. makes counting out the links faster. marty
 
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