RRSsawshop
ArboristSite Operative
What can you do to keep your chain catcher from trashing your drivers if your chain derails ????
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Chain catcher
- Thread starter RRSsawshop
- Start date
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This will probably, hopefully, get moved to the chainsaw forum. The chain catcher is softer than the chain, usually plastic or aluminum. The drive links are damaged by the sprocket spinning at 14,000 RPM. On big Stihl's you can upgrade the catcher with a big dog kit or better yet get an aftermarket full wrap handle with a built in catcher.
Ohiowoodguy
ArboristSite Operative
:agree2: and keep it on the rails!
RRSsawshop
ArboristSite Operative
Cutting brush and nothing kicks a chain off faster than brush (autum olive, shumac,ect) We've all had it happen at some point when cutting TRASH !!! 
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
hit the chain brake to stop the sprocket from spinning
The chain catcher is a sacrificial part, and in some cases, so is the chain. Better damage to these parts than your hand, arms, or legs when the chain jumps. That said, all of us have had a chain come off of the bar, and you hate to toss a chain..
Aside from the prevention tips (maintain tension, take care in brush, don't try to wiggle out a stuck/pinched bar, etc.), I have restored many a jumped chain to productive service by filing off the burrs on the drive links with a depth gauge file.
Clamp a short piece of a 2x4 in a vice and use it as an anvil to support the drive link while filing. I have had to replace some drive links (Oregon type with the hole) that broke when they jumped the bar.
Philbert
thejdman04
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree. The chain catcher should be softer then the chain, but if you ruin a chain, better then putting a chain in your arm or leg
coastalfaller
ArboristSite Operative
What we typically do is replace the stock chain catcher on our Husky 372's, 390's & 395's with 1" round teflon. It's soft and doesn't do much damage to your chain when you throw it. You just cut it to size, drill a hole in the middle of it and use the screw that came with the stock catcher. Works great.
371groundie
ArboristSite Guru
usually when my drivers get damaged by a derail im limbing out in the woods and need a quick fix. heres what i do:
1. put the chain back on the saw loose, drivers should hang well below bottom of bar.
2. turn oiler all the way up
3. place the saw on a log so that the bar is on the far side, this way if the chain comes off in the next step it cuts the log and not you
4.start the saw and rev it a couple times. not wide open but spin the chain until it spins freely. this removed the burrs that were formed when the chain derailed. shut off saw.
5. return chain to proper tension, return oiler to previous position. saw should now function properly
yes this puts some more wear on the bar and chain, but they are wear parts. this gets you back to producing wood fast. not saying its the best way, just how i do it.
1. put the chain back on the saw loose, drivers should hang well below bottom of bar.
2. turn oiler all the way up
3. place the saw on a log so that the bar is on the far side, this way if the chain comes off in the next step it cuts the log and not you
4.start the saw and rev it a couple times. not wide open but spin the chain until it spins freely. this removed the burrs that were formed when the chain derailed. shut off saw.
5. return chain to proper tension, return oiler to previous position. saw should now function properly
yes this puts some more wear on the bar and chain, but they are wear parts. this gets you back to producing wood fast. not saying its the best way, just how i do it.
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
y not run the oiler all the way up at all times? i do on every saw that i have. the more oil the better as long as your not running the tank dry (shouldn't happen)
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371groundie
ArboristSite Guru
i do, especially since my bar oil is free and not neccesarily clean. i just put that in there for those who dont.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Chain catchers do not do anything to the drivers... they stop the chain from movin' on a derail to protect the saw and the operator... the drivers do not even contact the chain catcher... the drive sprocket does the damage to the drivers...
Gary
Gary
hammerlogging
Addicted to ArboristSite
But isn't it a hell of a drag when they get smudged up? My method is, with maybe a slightly loose chain, knock off the burs with my chain file. Quick and dirty, but faster than heading up to the pack stashed toward the top of the block for a spare chain (and then one less maintenance thing to do that evening Chain catcher, if I managed to keep one on my saw 20% of the time I'd be in good shape.
I just hope, when I throw my chain, the drivers aren't banged up. Argh.
I just hope, when I throw my chain, the drivers aren't banged up. Argh.
i have been slapped more than once by a swingin chain, its quite fun!
Broken gas tanks & covers on 044s too.
Then you have to go and get the damn chain straight again so you dont turn your .050 to an .063.
Foolin around with limby pinchy hardwoods its a fact of life.
Broken gas tanks & covers on 044s too.
Then you have to go and get the damn chain straight again so you dont turn your .050 to an .063.
Foolin around with limby pinchy hardwoods its a fact of life.
hammerlogging
Addicted to ArboristSite
switching out a broken gas tank from a parts saw is the only reason I have a chain catch on right now in the first place (noticed there was one on the parts saw and siad why not throw it on). Yeah, they can whip you, specially with the longer bars we run.
Iam thinkin
Thats a real good way to ruin a bar,. AND if your already having trouble keepin the chain on,...a couple applications of that (fix,...)and time for a new bar,.
Thats a real good way to ruin a bar,. AND if your already having trouble keepin the chain on,...a couple applications of that (fix,...)and time for a new bar,.
