Chain Grinder ?????

[fwilliams979]

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys, I'll try to put it to good use.

Fred, you don't mention the 10* vice table tilt. Do you grind at 0*??? If so why??

(REPLY) I grind both 10 degree & 0 degree.


The 10 degree table tilt is for biger & thicker chain. The commercial heavy duty chainsaw.

O degree on table is for most smaller & thinner chain. Lighter & cheaper
chainsaw.




GOOD LUCK, fwilliams 979

 

[WidowMaker]

The whole point of the grinder is to get consistent cutter angles and lengths. If you are getting tooth to tooth variation on the same side of the chain, you are not clamping each tooth tight, or there is slop in the chain stop mechanism (or you have a really sloppy chain).

If you have variation in cutter length side to side, you probably do not have the vice centered. Have not see the Northern manual, but centering is done with an Allen head screw on the Italian grinders.

We know that the angle markings on these grinders is only approximate.

Maybe play around with an old or scrap chain until you get the settings and adjustments down.

Philbert

====

BTT... for some clarification

I think this is area I have trouble, (in RED above)

Not sure what centering the vice referrs to. I'm guessing we're talking centering the chain under the center of the wheel or shaft of the drive motor...Is this correct????


Thanks

 

[ProMac1K]

Yes, although I don't know that it would affect the length of the cutters, unless it was way out of wack. It would seem to affect the depth of the wheel into side plate or gullet, more-so. Correct me if i'm wrong.

The main thing that would affect cutter length (in my eyes) would either be lack of grinding that side of cutters, or adjusting the wheel to every cutter, or else not pulling the slack of the chain against the chain vise adjustment stop.

 

[WidowMaker]

I think you are mostly correct, although on the Oregon Chain web site in the operating instruction for the 511A it states that not centering the chain vice will affect the cutter lenght side to side

 

[Philbert]

I think this is area I have trouble, . . .Not sure what centering the vice referrs to. I'm guessing we're talking centering the chain under the center of the wheel or shaft of the drive motor...Is this correct????

'Centering' is a bit confusing when you think of all the angles. They refer to it as centering the chain in the vice.

In the Oregon User Manual http://www.oregonchain.com/accessories.htm on page 12 (14th page of PDF file) it shows the Allen screw and lock nut to adjust. Think of it as shifting the chain a bit to one side or the other.

Play around with this, perhaps with some scrap chain, until the cutters are the same on each side. Or, if this does not work, sharpen one side of the chain, measure the cutters with a cheap micrometer, and adjust the chain stop when sharpening the other side so that the cutters come out the same length.

Let us know how it works out.

Philbert.

 

[MCW]

Despite my previous posts regarding the MAXX grinder I have seemed to be getting more cutter length variation from side to side than I previously thought. I now believe it is caused by a poor fit of the turntable onto the frame (slide). It doesn't seem "snug" and has some side movement when sliding forward/backward/changing angles. Although the bulk of the MAXX is top quality, the plastic base on the turntable is a bit of a letdown.
This problem is also amplified on the MAXX by a quite flexible chain adjuster mechanism. Still a good grinder by many accounts, but the now obvious (to me) variability when sharpening means I won't be purchasing another one.
I can not put my finger on one part of the grinder that is consistent when swapping sides to sharpen into the cutters (cutter length/depth/angle). When using it as a normal "one way sharpening" grinder like the Oregon/Tecomec these problems don't arise.
I'm looking at installing a DPDT reversing switch that will solve this problem, while voiding the warranty at the same time
Very frustrating that I can't provide perfectly sharpened chains to customers even though nobody seems to have noticed or said anything as yet. I am a bit of a perfectionist and dread the day I do work for another perfectionist who knows what they're looking at!

 

[fwilliams979]

I think you are mostly correct, although on the Oregon Chain web site in the operating instruction for the 511A it states that not centering the chain vice will affect the cutter lenght side to side

Centering chain vice is a first time & only time setup. Once you get
chain vice centered DO NOT CHANGE THAT SETUP AGAIN.

MOTOR OFF!!! KEEP IT OFF!!!

Set head(wheel) to 30 degrees. This setting also is for all chain sharpenings.

Put a NEW chain in your vice. A NEW chain is the perfect templet to center
left & right cutter gullets so all cutters will be ground same height.

Turn vice to 30 degree left & pull wheel down (into) a gullet then tighen vice, adjust stop so it is snuggly against back of cutter. Release vice & wheel only.

Turn vice to 30 degrees right & pull wheel (down to) cutter gullet that matches that 30 degrees. It must match & go into that gullet with your finger holding that cutter against it's stop.

If it does not go into that gullet, adjust half of difference of each side until
they both match, go into cutter gullet & against stop, no matter which side of cutters are being sharpen.

Some grinder vices may not center at all. (Cheaper Grinder) You then will have to set stop one time only for all cutters to be sharpened on one side, measure sharpened cutter & then reset stop one time only for all cutters on other side to be sharpened.

When I sharpen a chain with a few damaged teeth on the chain, I sharpen
all the sharp cutters on chain a little at a time with one stop setting, again &
again,until I sharpen down to damaged cutters. Then sharpen all cutters on
chain again until damaged cutters are sharp.

After all chains are sharpened for the day then the rakers must be filed
down to the proper amount so chain will cut like a new one.

ALLWAYS GRIND LIGHTLY !!! SAFTY FIRST !!! WHEEL COULD EXPLODE

INTO YOU !!!

GOOD LUCK!!! fwilliams979

 

[WidowMaker]

Well I finally got comfortable with the grinder. Sharpen several chains from 20" to 36" full comp to full chisel skip
Sharpened everything @ 60*, 30* and 10* .

Went out last wek wood cutting and I must say there all cut very very well. I though I could do a pretty good hand job, but I'm here to tell you the grinder is far and away much sharper.

Ran Muffler modded 029 Super, 039 Super, fully modded 440, bone stock MS440 with only about 4 0r 5 tanks of mix, a brand new MS 441 with 4 or 5 tanks through it, a muffler modded 460 and a new to us 660.

The 029 and 039 are simply what they are good solid performer with the muffler mods.

The modded 440 is an animal, performs on a par with the 460 maybe a bit better.

Don't see that the 441 is any better the the new 440, alittle better on fuel.

The 660 will put BIG sh-t eatin grin on your face for the whole day, not what I would call a beast but one cutting S.O.B. Very easy starting with the Comp release valve ...sweet

Haven't had a chanch to drag out the the 56 MagII's, or the 064 Mag, those are the beast of the line up. I think the 064 is in line for a Comp release valve, makes for much easier starting for my 65 year old bones...

Anyway had a good weekend of wood cutting, bout 4 cord of Red Fir and a little Tamarack. Snow still keeping us from getting to much wood yet, another couple three weeks at least...

Back to the original topic, the Northern Tool Grinder, works very well, definitey worth the money, very sharp chains and the seem to hold the edge nicely too. No more files for me....YMMV:greenchainsaw::greenchainsaw:

 

[jeeptj19992001]

I have one of the Northern Tool knock-offs, works fine, just can't get an even cutter lenght result...

well that is your propblem right there...the fix is to toss the pos

 

[WidowMaker]

Guess you didn't read the previous post...

 

[mowoodchopper]

It does not really matter if your cutters are the same length or not. As long as you depth gauge is set accordingly. I just set the grinder to a setting that will work for the majority of the cutters not the worst, if you set to the worst cutters youll be taken alot of life away from your chain for no reason, except convenience! Just set it to take the least off you can and get the majority of the cutters then I go back and get the bad ones or hand file them.
And no it wont make your saw cut crooked as long as you set the rakers correctly!

 

[Philbert]

It does not really matter if your cutters are the same length or not.

I disagree.

Because the tops of the cutters are sloped for clearance, cutters of different lengths means cutters of different heights (aside from the depth gauge issues). That means that the chain will bounce or vibrate more than equal length cutters.

The chain will still cut, and this might not make a difference to some, especially if it's only 1 or 2 cutters on a chain, but becomes more of an issue as the difference in length increases.

Philbert

 

[mowoodchopper]

I disagree.

Because the tops of the cutters are sloped for clearance, cutters of different lengths means cutters of different heights (aside from the depth gauge issues). That means that the chain will bounce or vibrate more than equal length cutters.

The chain will still cut, and this might not make a difference to some, especially if it's only 1 or 2 cutters on a chain, but becomes more of an issue as the difference in length increases.

Philbert

It may make it not as smooth, I have not noticed though. But as long as you file your depth gauges correctly for each cutter it will cut fine. If you cut in a lot of rocks etc its the only way to make your chains last any time at all.
It may not be perfect like a new chain but I have used this technique all my life with a hand file and it works on the grinder to just takes more time!