chain sequence question

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 13, 2005
Messages
2,449
Reaction score
1,040
Location
Colorado
Once in awhile I could use a bar just a little longer than 24" So I start thinking about it. Am I being to picky about the length of the bars not matching a nice even sequence of full comp or skip chain??

I know that you can divide by 4 to get full comp, and by 6 to get skip.
my 24" uses 84 dl, and divides by 4 and 6 perfectly.

The longer bars use chains that dont! Why?

28" uses 91 dl
30" uses 98 dl
32 uses 105 dl

What I would like is a bar that fits my 460 and uses 96 dl !!

-Pat
 
Go figure. A lot of these sizes seem to be nominal, not exact. Stihl for some reason uses 25" bars but the chain is still 84dl.

Joe
 
I would not give matching tooth patterns another thought. Some combination of lengths and sequence will end up with one set of cutters closer or repeating, but in real life it absolutely does not matter in the cut with normal length bars.

This is not aimed at you personally, but I feel that alot of the energy some folks spend on this and that could be better used to improve their sharpening. It's like someone said in a thread earlier, "no one is as good at sharpening chains as they think they are."

I think the biggest issue/pain regarding bar lengths is the lack of consistency between brands. For example, I find it a pain that Stihls run 91 while Husky, Dolmar etc run 93 dl on their "28" inch bars. I keep loops on hand for maybe 9 lengths of bar, and wished I could have fewer sizes in my chain drawer.
 
Last edited:
I would not give matching tooth patterns another thought. Some combination of lengths and sequence will end up with one set of cutters closer or repeating, but in real life it absolutely does not matter in the cut with normal length bars.

This is not aimed at you personally, but I feel that alot of the energy some folks spend on this and that could be better used to improve their sharpening. It's like someone said in a thread earlier, "no one is as good at sharpening chains as they think they are."

I think the biggest issue/pain regarding bar lengths is the lack of consistency between brands. For example, I find it a pain that Stihls run 91 while Husky, Dolmar etc run 93 dl on their "28" inch bars. I keep loops on hand for maybe 9 lengths of bar, and wished I could have fewer sizes in my chain drawer.

Just get rid of the hooskies and dollymarz. Problem solved!:laugh: :cheers:


I know what you mean about too many chains laying around. I keep chains for 16", 20", 25", 28", 32", 36", 44", 66" and 72" bars. Gets confusing some times.
 
it doesn't matter. i have many chains where there's a doubled cutter because of odd-numbered DLs in the chain. Never even notice.

Complete agreement with B_Turner. Spend your time worrying about sharp cutters and correct depth gauges (aka "rakers").

The only time this would matter is if you're buying some spare DLs of each chain for repairs. Then, you'd want to order a complete sequence so you're not paying for cutterless drive links.
 
Once in awhile I could use a bar just a little longer than 24" So I start thinking about it. Am I being to picky about the length of the bars not matching a nice even sequence of full comp or skip chain??

I know that you can divide by 4 to get full comp, and by 6 to get skip.
my 24" uses 84 dl, and divides by 4 and 6 perfectly.

The longer bars use chains that dont! Why?

28" uses 91 dl
30" uses 98 dl
32 uses 105 dl

What I would like is a bar that fits my 460 and uses 96 dl !!

-Pat
It doesn't matter, as the others said, one irregular sequence on the entire chain doesn't make it act up in any way.....:)
 
one irregular

One double lets you start and stop filing without having to remember where you started from otherwise I use chalk to mark which cutter I started on. The double for those of us with bad memory or inability to count the number of cutters we have sharpend so we know where to stop filing. By the time you notice that the file glides through the cutter with ease you're probably past the starting cutter.
 
One double lets you start and stop filing without having to remember where you started from otherwise I use chalk to mark which cutter I started on. The double for those of us with bad memory or inability to count the number of cutters we have sharpend so we know where to stop filing. By the time you notice that the file glides through the cutter with ease you're probably past the starting cutter.

chalk works for you? never has for me. i use a sharpie once the yellow wears off the tiestrap.
 
You should start sharpening your most bunged up cutter first, since it's the one that'll need the most metal taken off. That way, you know how much to take off the rest of them. And if you can't tell the difference between a cutter you've sharpened and one you haven't, you're doing something seriously wrong.
 
You should start sharpening your most bunged up cutter first, since it's the one that'll need the most metal taken off. That way, you know how much to take off the rest of them. And if you can't tell the difference between a cutter you've sharpened and one you haven't, you're doing something seriously wrong.

Yup, that's what I do too. I've gotten more buggered from inconsistent cutter length than angles when sharpening in the field on the fly.
 
You should start sharpening your most bunged up cutter first, since it's the one that'll need the most metal taken off. That way, you know how much to take off the rest of them. And if you can't tell the difference between a cutter you've sharpened and one you haven't, you're doing something seriously wrong.

Yup, that's what I do too. I've gotten more buggered from inconsistent cutter length than angles when sharpening in the field on the fly.

Imo, a few shorter cutters doesn't matter much, but several on one side of the chain does.......
 

Latest posts

Back
Top