Chain Sharpen question

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Thomas Venditto

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I'm trying to sharpen a Stihl Chisel chain and going crazy! I can't tell what size file to use.

The short story:
Went to a Stihl dealer and bought 13/64" like the book says and they look too big, not huge, just too big for the existing filed teeth. I have it set up in the FG file guide at 30deg x 0deg drop. As I raise and lower the jig, the file never drops into the cutter. There's always a space between the existing "C" shape and the "O" shape of the file. When it's at it's closest point, the file is pretty low in the tooth ... like there's very little or none protruding above.

Is it possible the previous guy sharpened with a wheel and the kurf is different? It would make sense because he was a dealer.
If that's the case, should I just start filing and bring them all in line eventually?
Also, how much file should protrude above the tooth? The Stihl FG manual says 10% (really?) and I also saw somewhere on-line 40%.

The Long Story:
I'm doing service and mods on my bigger saws and they're in various stages of disassembly waiting parts etc. I have the 032 together except the air filter, which is on order. I want to sharpen it. I USED to do the dremel thing, but think it's not great and decided to "grow up" and file. I bought a FG3 on EBay and it's a very nice tool!

The Saws:
MS361(2) and 032

The bars:
all running 20", 050 gauge

The chains: all 3/8" pitch
MS361s are running Oregon full chisel. One's got a couple hours on it, the other it still in the box.
7/32" file, 25deg, 10deg drop

The 032 is running a Stihl chain.
13/64" file, 30deg, 0deg drop

This is the one I decided to sharpen first and the one which is making me crazy. Ok, it's a used chain that came with a saw I just bought(MS61 #2). I swapped the Stihl bar and chain over from the newer 361 to the 032. The chain is not in super shape, but I'm sure it'll do for occasional use. The 032 is a collector and I don't run it seriously. Still, I like to keep it clean and sharp for occasional use.
I've been on Stihl's site and they talk about markings. I can only see a "3", the name "Stihl" and a "C"(while mounted on the bar). The chain looks just like the Oregon chisel only I think it's a tiny bit smaller.


(The Dremel thing - I used a dremel for many years and found it works pretty good. I would touch the chain every tank of gas. Takes about 3 minutes to complete. I hit each tooth 2x very quickly, perhaps a 1.5 second pass. Never lean on the tool, just touch the tooth. Change the stones frequently. You'll get nice big chips.)

Thanks in Advance,
TomJV
 
The file in the picture looks like it will make a very acute angle on the cutting edge. The smaller the angle the sharper ,but the sharper the angle the less cut time between sharpening. That angle may work well in balsa but poorly in ash (for example). The percent of the file above the cutting edge of cutter is 10-20% IIRC from what I've read on this site. A good hook cuts well if it is balanced with depth gauges set low enough to cut and high enough to prevent a depth of cut that is too much for the powerhead to over come (bogged down). Search sharping chains for an encyclopedia of info/opinions on sharpening chain. Saw safe (-;
 
I have to agree it does look like the wrong file was used. If you have a new chain in a box you can compare that to the chain you have. 13/64 is the file I use on such chains. ( both freehand and in my 2 in 1 file )
 
You are sharpening the top with that larger file, it's the lower part of the tooth that's not getting touched yet, that's not serious because only the top 30 thous. cuts anyway, eventualy the file will get it all.
 
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