Chains

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CJordan

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
41
Reaction score
17
Location
Benton La.
Hopefully this is the corect place to ask this question, and hopefully I'm not beating a dead horse. If this has already been discussed, I'm not for sure how to word it in the search box so if someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.

So I'm in the process of trying to get a 038 Magnum 2 back up and running. As of now the saw has a bow on it, which I'm not overly enthused about. I've been doing some reading trying to figure out how long of a bar I can get away with on this saw. I've seen everything from 20"-32".
Now, I have no interest in running a 32" bar, but it would be nice to know what the saw will pull realistically, if anyone wouldn't mind throwing some real world experience out there.

But onto the original question. While researching bars I've noticed everyone talking about this chin vs that chain vs that chain and so forth.
Is it, or would it even be possible for someone to explain the different chains and the purpose of said chains?
I'm sure I'll mess this up and might should do a little more research before asking questions but here are some things I've seen while cruising the net. Pro comp, chisel, semi chisel, skip, maybe a "rolling" skip I might just me dreaming that one up, and I'm sure there are others that I don't know about.

I'm sure it'll more than likely cross someone's mind that if I'm having to ask these questions then I probably don't need to be messing with it, but you gotta learn somehow.
My 029super has a 18" bar so I normally just pick up a Stihl yellow tab box for 18" which will come back on you if you ain't careful and paying attention, but it seems to cut much better than the green tab reduced kickback box
 
You need to educate yourself more on chain cutters and types, just buying yellow or green doesn't really tell you much. Looking at a chisel from the rear will tell you if it is semi-chisel, or full chisel. The full chisel has a discernable corner, and a semi-chisel just has a rounded corner.
Then the "safety" parts come into play, which help reduce kickback, etc...
 
Green safety chains have double rakers (aka depth gauges) that separate in opposite directions when passing thru the bars tip. This minimized the exposure of the cutter which could cause kickback.

Chain knowledge is a wide deep pool to be jumping into. I'm still learning... after 6+ years of cutting ~10 cords of wood a year.
 
Go with a 3/8 0.050 20" or 25" bar depending on your needs. Chisel (clean wood) or semi-chisel chains for dirty wood. The former will cut faster and the later will stay sharp longer. I avoid all green safety chains in either style.

I like stihl ES bars and 33RS or 33RM chains.

7-pin rim drive sprocket. You might get by with an 8-pin with a short bar and shallow rakers, particularly in softer woods.

Get yourself tools to keep things sharp and to file/set the rakers. I used to free hand file , but have went to simple holders. Hand filing is a bit of learning curve but is a good skill to have, especially if you need to touch a chain up in the woods. At home I clamp the saw by the bar in a bench vise, in the woods cut a groove in a large stump/round.
 
Thanks guys, yeah I do have a lot of research/learning to do I could see an endless supply of questions when it comes to chains.

Mad Professor, when you say you use a simple holder for sharpening are you referring to the 2 in 1 sharpners? Stihl has a version as well as I think the company is called PFerd or is there another system you are talking about?
 
Thanks guys, yeah I do have a lot of research/learning to do I could see an endless supply of questions when it comes to chains.

Mad Professor, when you say you use a simple holder for sharpening are you referring to the 2 in 1 sharpners? Stihl has a version as well as I think the company is called PFerd or is there another system you are talking about?

I use a Pferd holder for my milling chains. For everything else a file holder for the round cutter file, I have some old Oregon ones. I think stihl has similar ones. They just hold the file depth in relation to the cutter.

I used to just freehand with a just a file handle, that takes a lot of practice but can get chains quite sharp too. Have to be careful about filing too shallow or too deep (hook). It's important to be consistent in the cutter angle too, especially on opposing sides. Try to keep the cutters the same length too. I give the longer ones an extra stroke or two with the file, shorter ones less. I don't like filing everything back to the shortest as it wastes a lot of metal/chain life.

For rakers a good flat file and a depth gauge. Set depth depending on what your bar/chain is and what you are cutting. Longer bars and harder wood less depth. If the rakers have been neglected sometimes I'll hit them lightly with a grinder before the file.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top